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Wii U Component identification

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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i got this wii u for free and tore it all down. It seems like something was spilled on it at one point and now It doesn't power on. I metered out some fuses and components but there is component that seems to be the problem just by what I tested. The only thing is I don't know what it is. At first I thought it was a re settable fuse. It has 4 connection points. The neutral flows through the top Left point and out the top right. The bottom input pin is connected with vcc but does not flow through the component so I thought maybe it was a re settable fuse because of the way it looked. I will attach a picture to this thread. Help would be appreciated Thanks, Victor The component is in the blue square. Heres the link to the picture:


http://oi57.tinypic.com/v3mu01.jpg
 

Gryd3

Jun 25, 2014
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i got this wii u for free and tore it all down. It seems like something was spilled on it at one point and now It doesn't power on. I metered out some fuses and components but there is component that seems to be the problem just by what I tested. The only thing is I don't know what it is. At first I thought it was a re settable fuse. It has 4 connection points. The neutral flows through the top Left point and out the top right. The bottom input pin is connected with vcc but does not flow through the component so I thought maybe it was a re settable fuse because of the way it looked. I will attach a picture to this thread. Help would be appreciated Thanks, Victor The component is in the blue square. Heres the link to the picture:


http://oi57.tinypic.com/v3mu01.jpg
Please upload the pic to the forums... The pic in the link is too small, and I got hit with redirects with ads when trying to view the 'raw image'
Additionally.. it's difficult to 'test' an unknown component if you don't know how it's supposed to behave.
Please get a nicer image, and use the 'upload a File' button on the forums here. (Right beside 'Post a Reply')
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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Please upload the pic to the forums... The pic in the link is too small, and I got hit with redirects with ads when trying to view the 'raw image'
Additionally.. it's difficult to 'test' an unknown component if you don't know how it's supposed to behave.
Please get a nicer image, and use the 'upload a File' button on the forums here. (Right beside 'Post a Reply')
 

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KrisBlueNZ

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That pic is the same size. We need one taken at a higher resolution.
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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Sorry that is as good as I can get right now. I will try to take my own picture tomorrow with my high resolution camera then I will post again. Anyways just from what your seeing any ideas on what it is?
 

KrisBlueNZ

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Based on the circuit reference, I guess it's a filter of some kind - probably a combination of small inductors and capacitors arranged as a pi filter or a T filter. For reducing emission of, and susceptibility to, conducted interference on the power cable.

Can you upload a picture of the DC power supply that plugs into the yellow connector, or list the markings on it.
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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Input: 120v AC 60Hz 1.1A
Output: 15V DC 5.0A

I.T.E power Supply 12SK E176979

The power supply is new and does not have any blown fuses or is damaged.
 

KrisBlueNZ

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OK. Let's wait until we have a good photo of that component.
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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Here are the pictures. It does look like the component is damaged.
 

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wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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I can desolder for a better look if you want. I was avoiding it though but its not any kind of pain to do
 

davenn

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I can desolder for a better look if you want. I was avoiding it though but its not any kind of pain to do

Well it looks like some one was hacking at it with a soldering iron

It's an inductor, more specifically a filter, its probably has 2 coils in it which means 4 contact points on the circuit board

why do you think this component if faulty ?
are you the one that has been at it with the soldering iron already ?

M2230007a.JPG

test with a multimeter in Ohms range between the 2 x A arrows and between the 2 x B arrows

should be zero or close to Ohms

Dave
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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no I didn't desolder anything on it if I was going to anyway I would use a hot air solder re worker. There was something spilled on this at one point and I think it might have destroyed that component. I just can't believe how people neglect thing like this. I'm going to desolder and test resistance like you said. Thats why I saw this as a problem because it looked like it was damaged and melted when whatever spilled on it. Anyways I just started learning about pcb and components like this in school so I was curious if you think this would cause problems with the power if its a filter for blocking out other frequencies like you said?
 

davenn

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That's why I saw this as a problem because it looked like it was damaged and melted when whatever spilled on it.

OK no problems .... a valid thought :)

I'm going to desolder and test resistance like you said.

you can test it without unsoldering it ( keep the plugpack unplugged from the board, initially )

Anyways I just started learning about pcb and components like this in school so I was curious if you think this would cause problems with the power if its a filter for blocking out other frequencies like you said?

that's cool, great to see you getting into a new hobby.
it would ONLY be a problem if one of the coils was open circuit, hence why I asked you to do a resistance ( continuity) test on it

cheers
Dave
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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Well that was the problem after i desloderd it I crossed the pins and turned it on and it worked. Then desolderd the bridged contacts. i need a new part now what size do think this part is. Is there some kind of chart online i can compare my part to, to get the size. Also i don't know to much about inductors. When buying one I know I need a surface mount but would I get a 15vDC 0.5 amp inductor. Is there some kind of calculation I can do to figure out what i need using the resistance in the circuit.
 

davenn

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you need to know the actual inductance of its 2 coils
the same physical size is almost irrelevant as they could all have different number of turns on the coils
meaning different inductances
I see no writing on that one to give any idea
Do you have an inductance meter or that setting on your multimeter ?
if so you could see which coil may still be OK and read a value

Dave
 

KrisBlueNZ

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The inductance probably isn't that critical, but the current rating will be. You said the power supply was rated at 5A. Also the physical size and the spacings between the mounting pads have to match.

Have a look at this part filter on Digi-Key and see if you can find a physical match. Then go for the highest inductance available in that size. http://www.digikey.com/product-sear...nSort=1000007&stock=1&quantity=1&pageSize=100
 

wess.vic

Feb 5, 2015
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If I can't find a double choke inductor do you think if i just bypassed it, will it will hurt?
 

davenn

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did you not go to the link Kris supplied ?
there's a whole mass there to choose from.
are you not in the USA with access to Digikey ?
 
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