-
Categories
-
Platforms
-
Content
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Unfortunately I work best seeing the other side of the board . . . .
But an initial rough analysis seems to be finding AC line input coming in thru the BLUE input surge varistor and then into the 100 ohm film resistor and then into the Gee-iant GREEN polyester film capacitor . To be utilizing the units capacitance reactance for line voltage dropping purposes.
Will peeling off the top black covering reveal that capacitors voltage and capacitance rating ?
Unless that info is on one of its sides.
Now we seem to be shooting for a max 24VDC voltage for the power relay and a sub voltage for the corner RF WI FI module.
I see one MELF damping diode for the POWER relay coil, being near it.
BUT the 4 diodes that surround the main electrolytic may be ordinary diodes, just being supplied by GENERAL . . . since they were BIG on diodes.
That's where the foil path profile on the other side of the board comes into play for "reading" its adjunct circuitry.
BTW do you know the branding of that WI-FI switch board ?
Thasssit . . .for now . . . .
73's de Edd
But an initial rough analysis seems to be finding AC line input coming in thru the BLUE input surge varistor and then into the 100 ohm film resistor and then into the Gee-iant GREEN polyester film capacitor . To be utilizing the units capacitance reactance for line voltage dropping purposes.
Will peeling off the top black covering reveal that capacitors voltage and capacitance rating ?
Unless that info is on one of its sides.
Now we seem to be shooting for a max 24VDC voltage for the power relay and a sub voltage for the corner RF WI FI module.
I see one MELF damping diode for the POWER relay coil, being near it.
BUT the 4 diodes that surround the main electrolytic may be ordinary diodes, just being supplied by GENERAL . . . since they were BIG on diodes.
That's where the foil path profile on the other side of the board comes into play for "reading" its adjunct circuitry.
BTW do you know the branding of that WI-FI switch board ?
Thasssit . . .for now . . . .
73's de Edd
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks St Edd.
Markings on beeeg cap: IEC/UL 60384-14
F862 X2 310-
SF5 40/110/56B
Markings on board: 94V-0 928DS (could be 328)
E193317
You can see the logo on the board just next to the white sticker which I had to pull off to get to the markings on board above.
Here is the other side of the board. This is the actual one that blew, I have 2 of these switches so some photos are of the undamaged switch
Please constructive criticism only on my soldering. I know it sucks but I'm trying my best
And here's a photo of the beeeeeg cap showing logos:
Please note that this board pushes out 220v to the lights
Markings on beeeg cap: IEC/UL 60384-14
F862 X2 310-
SF5 40/110/56B
Markings on board: 94V-0 928DS (could be 328)
E193317
You can see the logo on the board just next to the white sticker which I had to pull off to get to the markings on board above.
Here is the other side of the board. This is the actual one that blew, I have 2 of these switches so some photos are of the undamaged switch
Please constructive criticism only on my soldering. I know it sucks but I'm trying my best
And here's a photo of the beeeeeg cap showing logos:
Please note that this board pushes out 220v to the lights
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Sir Bushtech. . . . . . .
Will add on more info later but, for now, can you give the cap values and voltages of the 3 electrolytic caps BLUE, ORANGE and CHARTREUSE
And see if those 4 diodes aren't just being conventional diodes ( measure Vf's )and are the parts of a FWB feeding into the BLUE elect cap . . .which then feeds power to the 24V relays coil and then further divides down for reduced supply voltages at OR and CHART capacitors, which then feed the RF module . . . . . also find the small flat pack . . . U2's . . . part number .
PIC REFERENCE . . . . .
73's de Edd
Will add on more info later but, for now, can you give the cap values and voltages of the 3 electrolytic caps BLUE, ORANGE and CHARTREUSE
And see if those 4 diodes aren't just being conventional diodes ( measure Vf's )and are the parts of a FWB feeding into the BLUE elect cap . . .which then feeds power to the 24V relays coil and then further divides down for reduced supply voltages at OR and CHART capacitors, which then feed the RF module . . . . . also find the small flat pack . . . U2's . . . part number .
PIC REFERENCE . . . . .
73's de Edd
Last edited by a moderator:
St. Edd
Chartreuse: 100uf 25V 85C SR My cheap chinese ESR tester chucks this one out and just says 0.34ohm
Orange: 100uf 25V 85C SR ESR = 0.37
Blue: 100uf 25V 85C SR ESR =0.34
U2 = R30
Thanks
Still trying to decipher the rest of your info
Chartreuse: 100uf 25V 85C SR My cheap chinese ESR tester chucks this one out and just says 0.34ohm
Orange: 100uf 25V 85C SR ESR = 0.37
Blue: 100uf 25V 85C SR ESR =0.34
U2 = R30
Thanks
Still trying to decipher the rest of your info
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Sir bushtech . . . . .
You can see my small black lines showing there being a connect between a top anode and a top cathode of the top two diodes.
At the bottom end a HEAVY black line shows connections between a bottom anode and cathode of the bottom set of diodes.
Then the set of anodes from 2 diodes and a set of cathodes from 2 the other set of a diodes feed DC to your C6 storage capacitor.
Change out that cluster of diodes surrounding C6 with a set of 4 1N4007's..
THIS time if trying a POWER up test . . . .by all means . . . . .use a test lamp in series with the incoming AC line voltage.
As per my post # 6 in :
https://www.electronicspoint.com/th...f-an-old-ups-transformer.280632/#post-1707897
73's de Edd
You can see my small black lines showing there being a connect between a top anode and a top cathode of the top two diodes.
At the bottom end a HEAVY black line shows connections between a bottom anode and cathode of the bottom set of diodes.
Then the set of anodes from 2 diodes and a set of cathodes from 2 the other set of a diodes feed DC to your C6 storage capacitor.
Change out that cluster of diodes surrounding C6 with a set of 4 1N4007's..
THIS time if trying a POWER up test . . . .by all means . . . . .use a test lamp in series with the incoming AC line voltage.
As per my post # 6 in :
https://www.electronicspoint.com/th...f-an-old-ups-transformer.280632/#post-1707897
73's de Edd
Last edited by a moderator:
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Could you look closer at the BEEEEEEG film capacitor and see if its part number agrees with any of these:.
Possibly under that foam block on top ?
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/212/kemetr46-200585.pdf
Edd
Possibly under that foam block on top ?
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/212/kemetr46-200585.pdf
Edd
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Of ALLLLLLL of your other given numbers . . .this one seems to be THE one .
Since you have a capacitor tester . . . see if 0 decimal 68 ufd or 6.8 ufd is being its magical value ?
Seems like more BULK size would be needed, for that units voltage rating . . .in it being a 6.8 ufd..
BUT the actual function of this capacitor is in it being a series voltage dropping element..
Thereby with an AC impedance of 4680 ohms for a value of .68 , that would let about 50 mils of current be outputted.
Now with 6.8 ufd and its AC impedance equivalency of 468 ohms PLUS a companion 100 ohm series resistor,
THAT combo would let about 500 ma of current through . . . . .more than is needed, to then rectify and filter, in order to be able to snap the 24VDC relay in ,
Plus, there is being a miniscule amount being needed for the secondary power supply level . . . . for the rest of the board.
I'm thereby expecting it to be Decimal 68 ufd.
73's de Edd
Since you have a capacitor tester . . . see if 0 decimal 68 ufd or 6.8 ufd is being its magical value ?
Seems like more BULK size would be needed, for that units voltage rating . . .in it being a 6.8 ufd..
BUT the actual function of this capacitor is in it being a series voltage dropping element..
Thereby with an AC impedance of 4680 ohms for a value of .68 , that would let about 50 mils of current be outputted.
Now with 6.8 ufd and its AC impedance equivalency of 468 ohms PLUS a companion 100 ohm series resistor,
THAT combo would let about 500 ma of current through . . . . .more than is needed, to then rectify and filter, in order to be able to snap the 24VDC relay in ,
Plus, there is being a miniscule amount being needed for the secondary power supply level . . . . for the rest of the board.
I'm thereby expecting it to be Decimal 68 ufd.
73's de Edd
Last edited:
St. Edd
1."THAT combo would let about 500 ma of current through . . . . .more than is needed, to then rectify and filter, in order to be able to snap the 24VDC relay in ,"
According to a datasheet I found for that NT72C -S10 the relay is actually 12VDC.
2. I replaced the 4 diodes with smd 1N4007's and the cap. Using your back and wallet saver test lamp it's still not working as far as I can see. Trying this setup on my undamaged switch the led starts flashing. Trying it on the damaged one I get no flashing led. And I checked the led to see if it works.
3. My test lamp never lights up in these tests. Is that correct? Is that because there is no current flow out of the board to the light so there is no big current flow through the test lamp?
1."THAT combo would let about 500 ma of current through . . . . .more than is needed, to then rectify and filter, in order to be able to snap the 24VDC relay in ,"
According to a datasheet I found for that NT72C -S10 the relay is actually 12VDC.
2. I replaced the 4 diodes with smd 1N4007's and the cap. Using your back and wallet saver test lamp it's still not working as far as I can see. Trying this setup on my undamaged switch the led starts flashing. Trying it on the damaged one I get no flashing led. And I checked the led to see if it works.
3. My test lamp never lights up in these tests. Is that correct? Is that because there is no current flow out of the board to the light so there is no big current flow through the test lamp?
Just to increase my electronics knowledge. Here is a photo of the daughter board connection on my switch:
How do you remove this board. Is it a plug in or do you need to unsolder it? If so, where is the correct place to unsolder it, bottom of motherboard or top of daughter board. Sorry, bit of a stupid question but I've never dealt with something like this and I hate breaking things due to ignorance.
How do you remove this board. Is it a plug in or do you need to unsolder it? If so, where is the correct place to unsolder it, bottom of motherboard or top of daughter board. Sorry, bit of a stupid question but I've never dealt with something like this and I hate breaking things due to ignorance.
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Sir bushtech . . . . .
Oh how lucky you are . . .to have a GOOD board to compare against .
According to a datasheet I found for that NT72C -S10 the relay is actually 12VDC.
That round GREEN label precluding my being able to read that relays suffix . . .I had guestimated it in ending.as NT72C -240.
With no LED activity on the "BAD" board as compared to the "GOOD" board producing LED action, looks like you need to check for DC voltage presence across the power supply's main BLUE electrolytic and also get the levels at the ORANGE and CHARTREUSE ,IF there was an initial DC voltage presence back at the BLUE electrolytic.
If there IS being a socketing between the Main PCB and that daughter board, looks like their union would be at the top of black plastic upper "sockets" , mating to the very bottom of the daughter board.
Very slightly lift on a corner, to see if it raises up just a wee bit . If no movement expect to use generous rosin flux application to the solder joints and then use solder wick to wick off and desolder the BOTTOM pins on the main PCB or . . . . .use of a little less desirable solder sucker.
PROBABLY . . .that RF and decoding daughter board would be the very last suspect to consider to be at fault and then have to work with.
73's de Edd
Oh how lucky you are . . .to have a GOOD board to compare against .
According to a datasheet I found for that NT72C -S10 the relay is actually 12VDC.
That round GREEN label precluding my being able to read that relays suffix . . .I had guestimated it in ending.as NT72C -240.
With no LED activity on the "BAD" board as compared to the "GOOD" board producing LED action, looks like you need to check for DC voltage presence across the power supply's main BLUE electrolytic and also get the levels at the ORANGE and CHARTREUSE ,IF there was an initial DC voltage presence back at the BLUE electrolytic.
If there IS being a socketing between the Main PCB and that daughter board, looks like their union would be at the top of black plastic upper "sockets" , mating to the very bottom of the daughter board.
Very slightly lift on a corner, to see if it raises up just a wee bit . If no movement expect to use generous rosin flux application to the solder joints and then use solder wick to wick off and desolder the BOTTOM pins on the main PCB or . . . . .use of a little less desirable solder sucker.
PROBABLY . . .that RF and decoding daughter board would be the very last suspect to consider to be at fault and then have to work with.
73's de Edd
Last edited by a moderator:
