Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Where to scavenge mu-metal?

B

Brisclecone

Jan 1, 1970
0
Boolshit. Have another drink, you alcoholic retard.

More boolshit. You use them because secretly you want us all to know
just how retarded you really are.


You're an idiot.

Wanna play?
 
I

Ian

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rich Grise said:
Hey, Michael - just because _you_ can't figure out which name I'm using,
doesn't mean that _I_ can't. ;-)

I use the different names to distinguish between whether I'm being
technical or goofing around.

Some people don't afford such simple considerations. :)

Thanks!
Rich
Are you a solipsist, Rich?

Regards
Ian

;-)
 
S

SparkyGuy

Jan 1, 1970
0
You may find the cast-iron door of an old stove or wood furnace will
be all you need.

Now *there's* a mental picture that deserves framing!
 
S

SparkyGuy

Jan 1, 1970
0
Think of it as a single, shorted secondary turn but *outside* the
laminations. Any field that leaks out of the transformer induces a
current into the strap, and it in turn generates a field that fights
the excitation. It should be thick, wide, and well-shorted, which
means well soldered. Copper is best.

John

No need to ground, I presume...
 
M

MassiveProng

Jan 1, 1970
0
No need to ground, I presume...

Have you formed the leads going to your project into twisted pair
yet? I guarantee that will reduce injected noise a LOT.
 
J

joseph2k

Jan 1, 1970
0
Don said:
As soon as you cut it or otherwise stress it, mu metal becomes worthless.
That is a completely garbage overstatement. Just the same, any tight bend
(bending r less than 10 thicknesses) will require annealing in a reducing
atmosphere.
It is really quite intolerant of cold working if you wish to maintain the
magnetic properties. Do not even flex it unnecessarily.
 
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