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Weller WTCPT tip not hot enough

A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
Eeyore said:
Did you never ever use ancient pure copper tips ? That's why Multicore
added
a small percentage of copper to some of their solders.



That's the stuff.



Damn good news !

Graham

Aha ! When I first started in the business way back when dinosaurs roamed
the countryside, we used Adcola irons with a bakelite 'tortoiseshell'
handle, and a neat spiral of what looked like tinned copper wire wound right
up the length of the business end. Those irons used a solid copper tip, and
we always used 'Savbit' cored solder with them. This solder had added
copper, as you say. The best thing about those solid copper tips, was that
you could file them to any shape that suited your work, without compromising
their performance. A quick touch up with a file fully restored the soldering
tip, which would then tin immediately, and stay tinned until you flicked the
solder blob off, ready to start using it. The solid copper tips were, as I
recall, remarkably long lived, and could be filed into almost non-existence,
before they needed to be replaced. Using irons like that really taught you
the skills of good soldering, skills which stay with you your whole life.
The Antex CN15s and 25s from the same era also had solid copper tips, and
the same things applied. They were the first ones that I can remember
changing over to (first nickel ??) and then iron plating of the bits. Once
that plating wore through though, there was no rescuing the tip, even though
it was copper inside. Touching it up with a file was a one day only fix, and
a new bit was rapidly required. Odd that. perhaps the copper used was a
softer grade or something, once they had it 'protected' by the plating ...

Arfa
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
Eeyore said:
Well I simply don't let it idle all day. It's guarenteed to give those
nasty
'inter-metallic oxides' in the long term anyway that make re-tinning near
impossible. A guy I used to work with would switch on the bench (including
iron)
and maybe not use the iron all day. Whenever I noticed, I'd switch it off
again.
Why waste electricity anyway ?

Graham

A few years back, it probaly wouldn't have bothered me, but the older I get,
the shorter the fuse I seem to have. If I were to pick up my iron to do some
soldering, and it wasn't instantly ready to use, I would just get mad at
having to wait for it. I actually don't keep my vacuum desoldering station
powered all the time now since I changed from the Weller to the Pace. The
Weller tips were about seven quid apiece, but lasted for ages, even with the
station left idling. The Pace tips are about the same price, but you have to
buy them five at a time, which hurts a bit more. Add to this that they don't
last above a few weeks when idling, and this has led me to only switch it on
when needed. However, it has to be said that whilst I am waiting for it to
hot up, I fume worse than lead-free solder flux, and tend to pick it up to
start using it as soon as the heat light has started flashing, which then
often results in a clog, as the tip hasn't reached full temperature right up
the (long on the Pace) pick up tube that is part of it ...

Arfa
 
Y

Yukio YANO

Jan 1, 1970
0
Eeyore said:
I tried one of those brass things and it was useless IMHO. It left loads of crap on the
tip. Use a moist Weller sponge every time.

Graham

I switched to using "Stainless Steel" Pot scrubbers nearly 40 years ago,
NOT "Steel wool" It's stuffed into the bottom of the soldering iron
Holder, just a twist inserting or removing the Iron is usually enough
to keep the tip clean. To clear a really dirty tip, a few swipes on the
outside of the holder is sufficient. Do not use "Steel Wool"! it will
dissolve in the hot solder to form all sorts of crud and scraps will
stick to the magnetic tips.

Yukio YANO
 
J

Jim Adney

Jan 1, 1970
0
Quite. The total stress on the components is in fact likely to be be LESS.

Before you guys all continue to pile on, you might want to actually
read the link that Arfa posted. They are quite emphatic about avoiding
the proceedure you're all supporting. Read it. It's informative.

-
 
J

Jim Adney

Jan 1, 1970
0
And many boards now actually state that they are lead free or "PbF" on the
silk screening. As far as I have been able to tell, it's not so much about
mixing different types of lead-free alloys, which may or may not contain
small traces of other metals such as silver, but more a case of not mixing
lead-free with leaded solder.

The board labeling certainly helps with the lead vs. lead free
problem, but the link you posted also states that the different lead
free alloys should not be mixed. The do seem to imply that mixing lead
in with the lead free is worse, but I can't tell whether the problem
there is an engineering problem or a legal one.
To Jim. All of my experience with this stuff is from a service rather than
production point of view. You are of course right that manufacturers use
wave or reflow soldering, and have done for many years. The point I was
making about lead-free joints and Weller TCPs at 700 deg, versus
manufacturers' joints, was perhaps not grammatically well-made. What I was
basically saying was that the manufacturers, with all of their expertise and
expensive production soldering equipment, still can't get to grips with the
stuff themselves, and are still producing equipment littered with bad joints
from day one. So, if you are making consistently good 'production' joints in
lead free, using 700 degree hand soldering equipment designed way way before
any eco-prat had ever come up with the concept of taking the lead out of
solder, then you (your company) are doing, on average, better than the big
boys.

We should all remember that the big boys also had soldering problems
before the lead free mandate. AFAIK, those problems were mainly due to
trying to run the boards over the wave soldering machines too fast. I
doubt that present day production quotas are any less compelling.
As far as heat and temperature are concerned, I take your point that they
are not the same thing, and I don't think that I am confusing the two. They
are however, inextricably linked to one another by external influences.
Energy, in the form of heat, is what has to be put into a body in order to
raise its temperature. All solder has to have its temperature raised to the
point where its liquid state becomes suitable for making a soldered joint,
and then maintained at that temperature until the joint is completed. The
temperature at which this condition occurs for lead-free solder, is higher
than that of leaded solder. If you are just making small joints, then this
is of no consequence, and a 700 degree tip is fine for the job. With a
leaded joint - even a large one that causes the tip temperature to drop by a
few degrees - that drop is again of little consequence, as there is plenty
of temperature 'overhead' available from a 700 deg tip. However, with
lead-free, 50 degrees of that overhead, have already gone, so if a joint is
any bigger than 'small', the additional temperature drop at the tip, caused
by the joint leaching heat from it, results in a less than adequate tip
temperature being maintained, to correctly complete the joint. The result is
a bad or 'cold' joint. A 700 degree tip simply cannot maintain enough
heatflow into the solder, to keep it at a sufficient temperature to do a
'good job' on anything other than a small joint, and this is particularly
the case where a 'typical' repair workshop tip of small dimensions is used.

I'm glad to see that you do understand the difference between heat and
temperature, and the causes and effects of heat flow, but we won't
settle this argument until someone can post the actual melting point
of 63/37 and the solidus/liquidus of some of the lead free solders.
ISTR that the good old eutectic stuff melted at something like 370 F,
but I wouldn't bet on it. I'm pretty sure that it's somewhere below
400 F, so another 50 F is not such a big deal.
I have a repair service for a particular board which uses lead-free, and I
see many of them where the shop that's sending it back to me, have attempted
some rework or component replacement, and it's quite obvious that they have
been trying to use their normal leaded soldering equipment to do the job,
with the inevitable consequences.

Cooper appears to recommend tools that start at the same temp, but
have greater thermal mass and better thermal conductivity to the work.
They also have some additional recommendations which I have not tried.

Weller sells a preheat "table" which heats your board from the bottom
while you solder on top (or vice versa.) This would clearly help
produce joints that have been heated to an even temperature, and
Weller makes the point that it reduces stress in the finished joint.
They also sell a special iron which floods the work with an inert gas
while you solder.

Both of these seem pretty burdensome and extreme to me.
I can accept what Cooper say about not being tempted to increase the tip
temperature, but I think that they are probably talking more about not going
up far enough to get the same 'feel' with lead-free, as with leaded. Most
commentators on the subject, including soldering equipment manufacturers,
agree that a higher nominal tip temperature is required to work reliably
with lead-free.

I don't find an actual tip temperature in the Weller link, but they do
say to use the lowest temperature possible. Since I find that I have
no trouble (really!) soldering with a 700 F tip, and everyone in our
lab uses the same irons with the same alloys, I see no reason why
anything hotter would be justified.

It is also quite true that I do not work under a quota requirement,
nor am I paid by the joint, so I don't mind if the joint takes 3
seconds instead of 2. OTOH, I'm not really much aware of any change in
my soldering habits or technique since I used my first WTCP iron in
about 1977.

My earlier irons, starting with an American Beauty in about 1955,
required much different skills, and I was young and foolish then, so
when I go back and look at some of that work I often have to "tidy" it
up a bit.
One of the main reasons that manufacturers are having so much trouble with
the stuff, is that they have to run their soldering processes at a higher
temperature. This then brings them close to the maximums that some of the
components can tolerate for any length of time, so they have to compromise
and run the process at a slightly reduced temperature. That is fine until
you have to solder a connector or power semiconductor - particularly one
that is mounted on a heatsink, and that is where many lead-free bad joints
are occuring. Trust me, if manufacturers didn't *have* to run their
processes at a higher temperature, with all of the implications of that,
including a higher energy useage, to cope with lead-free, then they wouldn't
...

I think they would do just as well if they ran more slowly at lower
temps, but they probably find that is even more expensive than the
higher temps.

We won't really know the answer until we know the actual liquidus
temps of the Rohs solders. A check here gives us some facts to
consider:

http://kester.com/en-US/technical/alloy.aspx

I note that most of these range from 420 to 450 F, with 2 eutectic
alloys that melt at 430 and 440. 700 F seems like plenty of overhead
for working at those ranges, at least to me.

-
 

neon

Oct 21, 2006
1,325
Joined
Oct 21, 2006
Messages
1,325
George Orwell said:
I have a Weller WTCPT soldering station with the stock TC201T handle and
PTA7 700 degrees F. tip. It's 15 years old and hasn't seen much action. I
was using it a lot 3 years ago but for the past 2 years it's been sitting
cold in the garage.

The past couple times I've used it lately the tip just didn't seem to get
as hot as I remember. You know how it is with equipment you use for a long
time, you get to know the behavior and what's normal. When I put the
heated tip against the sponge, I barely get much of a sizzle. Solder barely
melts but does melt, just barely though.

I've gone through the troubleshooting guide Weller provides for this
station, all appears normal. I have 27.3VAC from the power unit. Heater
element reads 12.9 ohms. The "magnastat" opens and closes when the tip is
inserted and removed. Unfortunately the guide doesn't cover a warm tip,
only one that's stone cold or too hot. I don't know what else to check.

I can hear the tip cycling when I turn on the base. It just seems that the
heater doesn't stay on long enough like it used to. Do the tips somehow
lose their temperature calibration? Is it time for a new soldering
station? Any opinions on the WESD51?

Il mittente di questo messaggio|The sender address of this
non corrisponde ad un utente |message is not related to a real
reale ma all'indirizzo fittizio|person but to a fake address of an
di un sistema anonimizzatore |anonymous system
Per maggiori informazioni |For more info
https://www.mixmaster.it
have bother to clean it and remove the oxidation first?
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa said:
I don't have info particularly collated anywhere, but if you want to contact
me off group with an address that's monitored for input, I'll send you a
copy of the article, which contains references to where I got info, and who
from. I don't think that there is any particular need to remove the surface
of RoHS compliant components' leads. I seem to recall reading somewhere that
most component leads are now tin plated, as in coated in neat tin, rather
than being 'tinned' with any kind of solder, as they were in the past. A
coating of pure tin should not cause any problems when used with a
conventional SnPb solder.

The military etc are still worried because of potential tin whiskers with
closely spaced device leads.

There are known examples of such inter-lead shorts and they can support up to
30mA I read somewhere IIRC. I had a fantastic picture of one once. It shorted
out a *crystal*.

Graham
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa said:
"Eeyore" wrote


Aha ! When I first started in the business way back when dinosaurs roamed
the countryside, we used Adcola irons with a bakelite 'tortoiseshell'
handle, and a neat spiral of what looked like tinned copper wire wound right
up the length of the business end. Those irons used a solid copper tip, and
we always used 'Savbit' cored solder with them. This solder had added
copper, as you say.

That was the stuff. Couldn't remember the name.

The best thing about those solid copper tips, was that
you could file them to any shape that suited your work, without compromising
their performance. A quick touch up with a file fully restored the soldering
tip, which would then tin immediately, and stay tinned until you flicked the
solder blob off, ready to start using it. The solid copper tips were, as I
recall, remarkably long lived, and could be filed into almost non-existence,
before they needed to be replaced.

Oh yes I remember well.

Using irons like that really taught you
the skills of good soldering, skills which stay with you your whole life.
The Antex CN15s and 25s from the same era also had solid copper tips, and
the same things applied. They were the first ones that I can remember
changing over to (first nickel ??) and then iron plating of the bits.

Yup. The Antex C15 was my first 'serious' iron for working on miniature
components like TO-18 transistors. I recall BC109s were 6s/6d from Henry's Radio
back then and building my first pre-amps from the Mullard Audio and Radio
applications book.

Once
that plating wore through though, there was no rescuing the tip, even though
it was copper inside. Touching it up with a file was a one day only fix, and
a new bit was rapidly required. Odd that. perhaps the copper used was a
softer grade or something, once they had it 'protected' by the plating ...

Possibly just purer ?

Graham
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim said:
Before you guys all continue to pile on, you might want to actually
read the link that Arfa posted. They are quite emphatic about avoiding
the proceedure you're all supporting. Read it. It's informative.

My experience says otherwise. I'll have to time how long it takes to solder say a
1/4W resistor but it's certainly less than the 3 seconds or so some have mentioned
with 700F tips.

Plus note my post about those cold joints that plagued an amp design that just
'went away' with 800F tips.

Graham
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
The board labeling certainly helps with the lead vs. lead free
problem, but the link you posted also states that the different lead
free alloys should not be mixed. The do seem to imply that mixing lead
in with the lead free is worse, but I can't tell whether the problem
there is an engineering problem or a legal one.


We should all remember that the big boys also had soldering problems
before the lead free mandate. AFAIK, those problems were mainly due to
trying to run the boards over the wave soldering machines too fast. I
doubt that present day production quotas are any less compelling.



I'm glad to see that you do understand the difference between heat and
temperature, and the causes and effects of heat flow, but we won't
settle this argument until someone can post the actual melting point
of 63/37 and the solidus/liquidus of some of the lead free solders.
ISTR that the good old eutectic stuff melted at something like 370 F,
but I wouldn't bet on it. I'm pretty sure that it's somewhere below
400 F, so another 50 F is not such a big deal.



I don't find an actual tip temperature in the Weller link, but they do
say to use the lowest temperature possible. Since I find that I have
no trouble (really!) soldering with a 700 F tip, and everyone in our
lab uses the same irons with the same alloys, I see no reason why
anything hotter would be justified.

It is also quite true that I do not work under a quota requirement,
nor am I paid by the joint, so I don't mind if the joint takes 3
seconds instead of 2. OTOH, I'm not really much aware of any change in
my soldering habits or technique since I used my first WTCP iron in
about 1977.
I think they would do just as well if they ran more slowly at lower
temps, but they probably find that is even more expensive than the
higher temps.

We won't really know the answer until we know the actual liquidus
temps of the Rohs solders. A check here gives us some facts to
consider:

http://kester.com/en-US/technical/alloy.aspx

I note that most of these range from 420 to 450 F, with 2 eutectic
alloys that melt at 430 and 440. 700 F seems like plenty of overhead
for working at those ranges, at least to me.

-

All points noted, and for the most part, agreed with. I think what I am
saying, and probably Graham too, if I understand him correctly, is that for
most modern service work, a small tip is needed, which is less than ideal
for transferring heat from the iron's element to the actual joint, which
should be being made by the joint itself being heated, and the solder 'fed
in', as is the case with leaded solder. The result of that less than ideal
sized tip is that inevitably, as a large joint leaches heat from it, the
temperature drops, perhaps 50 or more degrees. With leaded solder, this is
of little consequence, as the drop in temperature is still well above the
point where the solder is able to be worked, to create a guaranteed good
joint. However, that said, try it on a big enough joint, and that won't be
the case. With lead-free, the drop in tip temperature is of greater
significance, as it readily causes poor workability of the solder, a 50 or
more degree drop taking you a lot nearer to the point where the solder works
'pasty' rather than fluidly.

So in this case, a tip that starts off at 800 deg and then drops towards 700
'under load' appears to represent a tool better suited to the job 'on
average', bearing in mind that as service engineers, we are seeing many
types of equipment that need, in theory at least, a similar variety of
different soldering equipment. So what we are using is a working compromise,
that has to be able to cope with leaded as well as lead-free solder, and
everything from IC pins to BNC connectors or worse.

To some extent, the points raised are moot in that there are now much better
tools on the market for coping with the modern situation, without having to
compromise. Someone mentioned Metcal stations for instance. Any station with
a tight control loop, is much better than a TCP for general service work
these days. I run an Antex temperature adjustable station, which I keep
idling at about 680 degrees. I turn it up to 750 when using lead-free, as I
find from a purely personal point of view, that this temperature suits both
me, and the Ersin 306 alloy that I use. I still keep my TCP running, with a
700 deg tip mostly, more out of comfort as it has been with me many years,
but I do find that I use it less now.

As far as the manufacturers having trouble with the stuff goes, I don't
think that it is to do with deadlines per se. I can remember when PCBs were
first around, and the technology advanced very quickly, driven mainly by the
big Jap consumer market manufacturers, to the point where bad joints on
their equipment were virtually unheard of, and that has remained the
situation for many years now. Given that wave and reflow soldering were
fully mature and largely trouble free and reliable technologies, one would
have expected that the degree of understanding that they must have of the
processes involved, would have allowed them to slip seamlessly into
similarly reliable manufacturing with lead-free. This doesn't appear to have
been the case, and equipment is still coming out of factories with less than
satisfactory joints, which tells me that the problem is with the technology
itself, not how the manufacturers are incorporating it into their overall
manufacturing time budget. When push comes to shove, it is a replacement
technology that arguably wasn't required in the first place. The original
technology involved in soldering was the right one, as has been shown over
many years, and the replacement uses materials deemed to be ecologically
better, but which don't actually readily do the job that they are needed to.
The lead-free solder is being 'made to fit' on the back of the "green"
ticket if you will, and sod the consequences ...

Arfa
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim said:
If you actually mean specific heat, yes.

And what you mean is 'heat capacity' which is NOT the same thing !
Although it's value depends on specific heat too.

" Heat capacity (symbol: Cp) — as distinct from specific heat capacity —
is the measure of the heat energy required to increase the temperature
of an object by a certain temperature interval. "
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_capacity

Graham
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
I don't have info particularly collated anywhere, but if you want to
contact me off group with an address that's monitored for input, I'll send
you a copy of the article, which contains references to where I got info,
and who from.


On its way. Check your incoming. Let me know if any probs.

Arfa
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
Eeyore said:
The military etc are still worried because of potential tin whiskers with
closely spaced device leads.

There are known examples of such inter-lead shorts and they can support up
to
30mA I read somewhere IIRC. I had a fantastic picture of one once. It
shorted
out a *crystal*.

Graham

Been some interesting stuff recently in Elektor mag on the subject, and how
the old AF117's used to fail in SO mixers used in early tranny radios. Seems
that was due to whiskers growing inside the metal can of the transistor,
which was tin plated, and shorting to the transistor itself. Many engineers
just used to snip the screen lead on the transistor, but I found that if you
quickly jabbed a screwdriver across between the screen and collector leads,
the short magically disappeared. I guess it was blasting off the microscopic
whisker by vapourising it.

Arfa
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa Daily said:
On its way. Check your incoming. Let me know if any probs.

Arfa

Sent again using the first 'reserve' address. Let me know ...

Arfa
 
A

Andy Cuffe

Jan 1, 1970
0
I've never used one of those, but I've wondered how they would be. I'd
be concerned that they would wear thru the tip plating quickly and
lead to early death of the tips. Have you noticed any of that?

-


I also use one of those, and if anything, my tips last longer.
Andy Cuffe

[email protected]
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa said:
Been some interesting stuff recently in Elektor mag on the subject, and how
the old AF117's used to fail in SO mixers used in early tranny radios. Seems
that was due to whiskers growing inside the metal can of the transistor,
which was tin plated, and shorting to the transistor itself. Many engineers
just used to snip the screen lead on the transistor, but I found that if you
quickly jabbed a screwdriver across between the screen and collector leads,
the short magically disappeared. I guess it was blasting off the microscopic
whisker by vapourising it.

Now how did you devise that technique ?

Graham
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
nobody > said:
The same thing happened with early-manufactured 72 'pin' SIMMs that had
tin contacts (typically the cheap generic RAM sitcks). 30 'pin' tin
contact SIMMs were 'coarse pitch' enough that the problem occurred rarely.

I also saw the same issue on some UK-manufactured electric traffic
counters (those boxes with the hoses laid across the pavement). They
left the thru-leads so long that the tin coating on on the leads
protruding out of the hole would grow whiskers. We had no schematics and
the chips were all marked only with proprietary numbers, all we could do
to fix them locally was to check discrete components on guesstimate as
to what their function was, and do an extremely close scrutiny on the
boards. We found those whiskers on quite a few of them, so it became a
shop standard to trim all the leads on the boards and scrub them before
giving up and RMAing the units. That cured probably 70% of the problems.

Pathetic.

Bloody alleged 'greens' and gullible politicians.. Combine the two and you have a
disaster.

Graham
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
Eeyore said:
Now how did you devise that technique ?

Graham

Christ knows Graham ! I was about 18 at the time and probably about the only
one in the workshop who was reasonably comfortable with the new fangled
transistors ...

Thinking about it, the leads went E-B-Scr-space-C. It was probably one of
those fortuitous 'mistakes' where I was measuring the collector voltage, and
the meter probe slipped ...

Arfa
 
J

Jim Adney

Jan 1, 1970
0
All points noted, and for the most part, agreed with. I think what I am
saying, and probably Graham too, if I understand him correctly, is that for
most modern service work, a small tip is needed, which is less than ideal
for transferring heat from the iron's element to the actual joint, which
should be being made by the joint itself being heated, and the solder 'fed
in', as is the case with leaded solder. The result of that less than ideal
sized tip is that inevitably, as a large joint leaches heat from it, the
temperature drops, perhaps 50 or more degrees. With leaded solder, this is
of little consequence, as the drop in temperature is still well above the
point where the solder is able to be worked, to create a guaranteed good
joint. However, that said, try it on a big enough joint, and that won't be
the case. With lead-free, the drop in tip temperature is of greater
significance, as it readily causes poor workability of the solder, a 50 or
more degree drop taking you a lot nearer to the point where the solder works
'pasty' rather than fluidly.

I agree with this, except that in the case where I encounter a large
joint, I always find that I can heat the joint using the side of the
tip, thus greatly increasing the thermal conductivity.
So in this case, a tip that starts off at 800 deg and then drops towards 700
'under load' appears to represent a tool better suited to the job 'on
average', bearing in mind that as service engineers, we are seeing many
types of equipment that need, in theory at least, a similar variety of
different soldering equipment. So what we are using is a working compromise,
that has to be able to cope with leaded as well as lead-free solder, and
everything from IC pins to BNC connectors or worse.

Since I've never made any temp measurements across a soldered joint, I
really don't know how much temp drop one might find. It appears that
we have 250 F of headroom available with a 700 iron, which seems like
it should be plenty, but I have no data to support that. Weller's
suggestion to preheat the bottom side of the board while soldering
from the top (or vice versa) would seem to support your claim that the
700 F tip may not be sufficient, but it would be more helpful if they
had specific temp recommendations.
To some extent, the points raised are moot in that there are now much better
tools on the market for coping with the modern situation, without having to
compromise. Someone mentioned Metcal stations for instance. Any station with
a tight control loop, is much better than a TCP for general service work
these days.

One of my co-workers uses a Metcal for surface mount work and swears
by it. Since it heats and senses right at the tip, it's bound to be
better as you say.
As far as the manufacturers having trouble with the stuff goes, I don't
think that it is to do with deadlines per se. I can remember when PCBs were
first around, and the technology advanced very quickly, driven mainly by the
big Jap consumer market manufacturers, to the point where bad joints on
their equipment were virtually unheard of, and that has remained the
situation for many years now. Given that wave and reflow soldering were
fully mature and largely trouble free and reliable technologies, one would
have expected that the degree of understanding that they must have of the
processes involved, would have allowed them to slip seamlessly into
similarly reliable manufacturing with lead-free. This doesn't appear to have
been the case, and equipment is still coming out of factories with less than
satisfactory joints, which tells me that the problem is with the technology
itself, not how the manufacturers are incorporating it into their overall
manufacturing time budget. When push comes to shove, it is a replacement
technology that arguably wasn't required in the first place. The original
technology involved in soldering was the right one, as has been shown over
many years, and the replacement uses materials deemed to be ecologically
better, but which don't actually readily do the job that they are needed to.
The lead-free solder is being 'made to fit' on the back of the "green"
ticket if you will, and sod the consequences ...

I tend to work (repair) a lot of items that are quite old, so I've
seen a number of failed joints on old boards. They tend to crack
around large joints where not enough heat got into that joint to allow
the solder to wick in far enough to make a sound mechanical
connection. I can only speculate that the cause was insufficient
pre-heat time in the wave soldering machine, due to running the line
too fast.

Now, I have a confession to make. When I started my current job 9
years ago, they told me they were switching to lead free solder. I
tried some of it at that time and it seemed fine. In the course of
this conversation I realized that I had no idea exactly what version
of lead-free we were using, so today I went into our shop and looked
at one of the spools, since I usually just pull off a few feet to take
back to my office where my bench is. What I found was spools of 60/40
tin/lead. I don't know how long that's been in use here, or if they
ever bought any more of the Rohs solder.

So at this point I have to admit that it's possible that I've been
mistaken for the past 9 years and I may have almost no Rohs soldering
experience. I apologize for my statements to the contrary. It now
seems clear why my "experience" with Rohs solder seemed to be so
positive. I'll try to find some actual Rohs to try.

I DO know that my previous workplace HAS made the switch to Rohs. I
still have friends there and it is a manufacturing environment. One of
those friends is one of their electrical engineers, so I'll make a
point of asking him how that changeover went and whether it has given
them any continuing problems.

Maybe I'll find that they went to 800 F tips, or maybe not.

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