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Vista 20p

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by Wrsurber, Jan 7, 2020.

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  1. Wrsurber

    Wrsurber

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    0
    Jan 7, 2020
    I have a new vista 20p I wired. I had an old Vista that was wired but had to replace it. I the new one exactly the same. All are great except zone 2. I keep getting fault. All sensors are hardwired and are connected. I checked the wiring in the box and it seems to be correct. Any suggestions?
     
  2. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    339
    83
    Jun 20, 2010
    When you say, "I keep getting fault.", I don't know if you mean Zone 2 (1) is constantly faulted, or (2) if it keeps faulting intermittently. They're different symptoms; and troubleshooting is different for each set of symptoms. Which is it?
    If your Zone 2 loop wire is solid wire (as opposed to stranded), repeated handling at the screw terminals can sometimes create a wire break inside its insulation near the screw terminals, so the wire looks intact, but is intermittently touching/opening inside the wire insulation. I've seen that happen a few times over the years. Use your fingernail along each wire on Z2 at their terminals to check for integrity. If Zone 2 is a powered device (motion or glassbreak sensor, or smoke sensor), then there are 4 wires involved, loop and power (usually Terminals 4 & 5).


    If you're sure that the two wires for Zone 2 loop (circuit) are connected properly at Terminals 10 & 11, then the most likely cause for faulting on the zone is that something on the loop itself is actually faulted/faulting. To confirm that the trouble is in the zone loop and not the V-20P, remove the Zone 2 loop wires from the Panel's Terminals 10 & 11 (T10 & T11) and install either (1) a 2K Ohm resistor, or (2) a wire jumper across those terminals. Usually, there is a 2K resistor on the Z2 loop (the default programming), but the Panel can be programmed not to look for that 2K resistor if the zone is not a fire zone.

    With nothing but the 2K resistor OR a jumper across T10 & T11, Zone 2 should show Normal (not faulted). If you still get a fault, then you have a bad Vista-20P.

    Assuming the Panel proves normal, troubleshoot the Z2 loop.
    (1) What is on Zone 2!? I don't want to go though troubleshooting protocol for door(s) and window(s), and then have you tell me that Z2 covers a basement flood sensor, or smoke sensor(s), or half a dozen other devices that it could be. Each alarm system is, by its nature, a custom installation; and I need you to tell me what I can't see if I were there looking at the Panel and Zone List.
    (2) Assuming there is a 2K resistor on the Z2 loop, where is it? The manual says to put the resistor, called an "End-of-Line Resistor" (EOLR) at the end of the zone loop, i.e., at the sensor farthest on the loop from the Control Panel. Fire Code dictates that that is where the EOLR must be installed on fire loops; but savvy installers will often install burglary loop EOLRs at the Panel's zone screw terminals---T10 & T11 in your case. If your EOLR is installed at the Panel, it greatly simplifies troubleshooting the Z2 loop.
     
  3. Wrsurber

    Wrsurber

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    Jan 7, 2020
    Okay, so first..THANK YOU for the reply, I have just been able to skim over this but now will ready it thoroughly and answer the questions. 1. When I program Zone 2 on my keypad as active and then try to arm the system it will not arm because it shows fault zone 2. SO I have to program, on the keypad that zone as not active. If I do that the I can set the alarm but of course everything on Zone 2 is not set. My zone 2 is window sensors that are hardwired. since there are several windows there are several strands in the wiring to the terminal so I will definitely check the loop...and go from there.
     
  4. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    339
    83
    Jun 20, 2010
    Okay, so Zone 2 stays faulted, indicating the Panel sees an open circuit (less commonly, a shorted circuit) on the Zone 2 loop. The most likely cause, statistically, is a missing or misaligned magnet on one of the windows. Depending on the type of windows (double-hung? Sliding? Casement? Other?), the magnetic switch is usually installed recessed in the window frame and the magnet is recessed in the sash, aligned so that the magnet aligns with the switch very closely (fraction of an inch) when window is latched shut. The most common window switch/magnet pairs show up as 3/8" or 3/4" circles (which are the ends of the plastic housing of the switch/magnet cylinders), in the frames & sashes of windows.
    If your windows use a different kind of mag switch/magnet pair, this would be the time to mention it.


    First thing to check is whether a magnet has worked its way out of/off a window sash, or if the sash has shifted enough to make the magnet misaligned or too far from the switch.
    If you find an obvious missing/misaligned magnet, you can disregard the rest of this post.

    If you don't find anything obvious:
    A bar magnet is a valuable troubleshooting tool for this kind of problem. If you don't have a bar magnet, get one. It doesn't need to be big or especially strong, only about the size & strength of the magnets in your window sashes.
    At your keypad, set your system in Chime Mode: CODE (4-digit User Code) + 9 toggles the Chime function on and off.
    With all windows on Z2 closed, open the windows one at a time and hold the bar magnet end-on to the mag switch, then take it away, several times. If only one window is misaligned, then the window that gives you a chime is the culprit. None of the other windows can cause a chime while the errant window is holding the series circuit open.
    If you find a misaligned magnet, I'll wait to hear back from you before prescribing a cure; after you let me know if I guessed right about the type of switch/magnet pairs.



    I'm going to assume, since you didn't mention otherwise, that the Zone 2 Summary Screen, in *56 Zone Programming, looks like this on your Alpha Keypad screen:
    Zn Zt P RC HW: RT
    02 03 1 10 EL 1
    (The "10" under RC doesn't matter for our purposes, so don't worry about it.)
    If we're going to need to troubleshoot further, I still want to know where the EOLR (End-of-Line Resistor) on Zone 2 is located.
     
  5. Wrsurber

    Wrsurber

    5
    0
    Jan 7, 2020
    Man this great. Kids are home so I going to troubleshoot tomorrow and get back to you. Yes, I do have the zone programmed on keypad exactly how you have above
     
  6. Wrsurber

    Wrsurber

    5
    0
    Jan 7, 2020
    Okay so I think I may be getting closer
    I think I may be getting closer. Please know that I wrote that this is zone 2
     
  7. Wrsurber

    Wrsurber

    5
    0
    Jan 7, 2020
     
  8. ChosunOne

    ChosunOne

    339
    83
    Jun 20, 2010
    Thanks for posting back to let us know the outcome. Glad it was something simple.
     
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