UV lamp question for ozone generation...

Hi everyones...thanks to read. Please check the following link:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3872692720&fromMakeTrack=t
rue
With a proper enclosure, circulating fan, a timer circuit, and the item
descibed there, do you think that i would have all the components to make an
inexpensive but efficient Ozone generator? TIA

--
Alain(alias:Kilowatt)
Montréal Québec
PS: 1000 excuses for errors or omissions,
i'm a "pure" french canadian!
Come to visit me at: http://kilowatt.camarades.com
(If replying also by e-mail, remove
"no spam" from the adress.)

 

Alain, you can do as well with any fluorescent lamp and a germicidal tube to
match.
I would not pay over $10 for this including shipping.

I have to vent my UV EPROM eraser due to the ozone it produces. Heed the
warnings
to protect your eyes...I lightly 'sunburned' my hand with a 30 second
exposure.

 

I couldnt get your ebay page to open so Im sure exactly what you are
wanting to do but......

You can make an inexpensive ozone generator out of a used oil burner
ignition transformer and a wad of steel wool or tin foil. Just take the
two high voltage leads from the transformer output and jam them into a
wad of steel wool or crampled up tinfoil. You will generate massive
amounts of ozone. If you can find a heating and cooling place in your
area they will sometimes give you old transformers off of furnaces they
have replaced..just got to catch them before they send the furnace to
the scrap yard.

Older neon sign transformers will do the same thing...but are usually
harder to get around here than old oil burner transformers.

 

LOL... an ignition xformer? What a compact project that would be!

Shure..what a nice lighting show i would get! ;-)

I couldnt get your ebay page to open so Im sure exactly what you are
wanting to do but......

You can make an inexpensive ozone generator out of a used oil burner
ignition transformer and a wad of steel wool or tin foil. Just take the
two high voltage leads from the transformer output and jam them into a
wad of steel wool or crampled up tinfoil. You will generate massive
amounts of ozone. If you can find a heating and cooling place in your
area they will sometimes give you old transformers off of furnaces they
have replaced..just got to catch them before they send the furnace to
the scrap yard.

Older neon sign transformers will do the same thing...but are usually
harder to get around here than old oil burner transformers.

 

Ignition xfrmr's will produce ozone as long as only a partial plasma channel is
maintained. I have created ozone by placing the electrodes on a rock, where the
surface readily ionozes a light blue from partial conduction. But as soon as the
rock heats up enough to initiate full conduction, the rock's done for.

That said, ozone is not as great as everyone seems to think it is, probably
thanks to the news media. Ozone is a strong oxidizer since it's tertiary oxygen
molecule has a very weak bond. Anything O3 comes into contact with is oxidized -
including plastics (rubberbands turn into chunks of hard, brittle rubber),
metals (exposed metals "rust" readily in the presence of O3), and at
ground-level overall it is a major pollution contributor. The stuff is only good
for two things: blocking harmful UV in the upper atmosphere (where it belongs
and all the skin cancer patients wish there were more of) and cleaning large
volumes of open air (what we get from thunderstorms naturally.)

 

Another use for ozone: Water purification, instead of chlorine.
Don't know the pros and cons of this, but a local spring water
company used it to purify their water. I think they claimed it
left no or less harmful products in the water than chlorine.

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

 

I read in sci.electronics.design that Bob Masta <>

Less harmful products, and the water tastes better. But ozone treatment
is more costly than chlorine. You also get, of course, the idiots who
cite the limits for *airborne* ozone to show that it's 'far more toxic'
than chlorine.

 

Are there any limits for airborne chlorine? I know which of chlorine or
ozone I'd rather breathe traces of

Ozone decomposes, too.

 

AFAUI, all "spring water" is ozonated so that it won't kill people.
They don't go out of their way to advertise it on the label. Many
places use ozone for municipal water purification-- one problem is
that there is not enough residual ozone in the water to deal with
bacteria and so on that may enter through the distribution system, so
you have to have some chlorine. Some years back I was involved with a
water purification appliance that created (and destroyed) ozone to
purify water in small batches. It worked fairly well- even helping to
remove some metals by oxidizing them and removing them with a
conventional filter.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

---
Ozone is great for disinfection, but has the drawback of being so
reactive it doesn't last very long. It won't maintain a residual
disinfectant concentration in long municipal distribution systems.
Can also form bromate(bad boy) from any bromide that occurs naturally
in the source water.
GRAVITY:

It's not just a good idea-IT'S THE LAW!

 

Hmm, I wonder how O3 would do as a regenerator for CuCl etchant...

 

It will certainly oxidize cuprous chloride to cupric chloride, but if it
decides to go the whole nine nanometres and make copper ozonide, RUN FOR
YOUR LIFE! (;-)

 

I'm no chemist. What are its characteristics? Highly toxic? Unstable?

 

I read in sci.electronics.design that xray <>

Yes, prone to 'autonomous energetic disassembly'. (;-)

It's no doubt highly toxic as well, but you'd never get to find out.

 

There's a much simpler way :
- Use any old high voltage generator (strip a TV set or something), make
sure a voltage of minimum 2kV can be attained
- connect ground wire to a 'U' shaped metal bar with inside size of say 1/2"
- fix a very thin wire (preferrable wolfram, 0.001" or smaller) inside the
U-shape at equal distance from any side
(take care for the insulators at the opposite ends, so no flashing can
occur)
- connect this wire to the hot side of the transformer
- turn up the voltage until the wire starts glowing in the dark, a 'sizzing'
sound will be heard
==> ozon as much as you like

Beware, ozon is rather agressive !!

 

I've never heard of CuCl as an etchant, but for standard ferric
chloride etchant I've heard of people adding HCl to regenerate it.
I've never tried that, since I wasn't sure how to tell how much to
add (without etching test boards, etc). I assume there must be
an optimum pH involved.

However, there is definitely an optimum concentration for
ferric chloride itself. It often comes too concentrated
as shipped, and hardly etches at all until you dilute it
down to 1.30 specific gravity. Curiously, as the etchant
gets exhausted and action slows down, adding water will
speed it back up again and extend its life. At the lab
where I used to work, they used to do this a couple of
times before declaring it exhausted. After the initial
1.30 adjustement of the new batch, the extra rejuvenations
were done "by eye", so I can't tell you what SG they
brought it back to. I also don't know how much of the
slow-down might have been caused by evaporation in
the etching tanks and trays, so I don't know if the
subsequent water additions were just correcting for
evaporation, or actual chemical exhaustion.

But whatever, ferric chloride is pretty mysterious stuff.
We were all amazed to find that dilution made it more
active.

Best regards,


Bob Masta
dqatechATdaqartaDOTcom

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

 

I read in sci.electronics.design that Bob Masta <>

It's actually cupric chloride, CuCl2. It isn't nearly as well known as
ferric chloride FeCl3, but it is quite widely used in industry.

 

Polarity needs to alternate. I've found that DC voltage is not very
efficient, as the one coming from flyback xformers. However i think that a
flyback can still be used if it doesn't include the HV diode.

--
Alain(alias:Kilowatt)
Montréal Québec
PS: 1000 excuses for errors or omissions,
i'm a "pure" french canadian!
Come to visit me at: http://kilowatt.camarades.com
(If replying also by e-mail, remove
"no spam" from the adress.)

 

Correct, a real ac also doesn't 'foul up' the electrodes as much as dc does
Nevertheless, a positive dc on the wire is most stable but less efficient as
a negative dc
The ac combines both with the added advantage of cleanness

One *might* also use a flyback xformer (without built-in cascade) at it's
oscillation point, thus needing less input voltage and creating a nice sine
wave output
(actually did it more as once, during design of transfert electrodes in a
electrostatic printer)

 

I once made some copper acetylide at school.

Nitrogen triiodide was good, too...

Amazing what you could get away with back then.