Update on Mitsubishi WT-46807 parts problem

Well, after further troubleshooting, I found that the red CRT is bad.
Now for the good part - TV made in Nov. 2000. Called Mitsubishi,
talked to parts and consumer relations. They tell me this CRT
#P16LSG03RJA is NO LONGER AVAILABLE. I ask if an aftermarket is
available. They haven't got a clue. I called both Mitsubishi
authorized service centers in my area. Both said "if Mitsubishi told
you the part was unavailable, there's nothing we can do". When I
called Mits, the first thing I asked was whether this part number had
changed or if it was being sold/manufactured by someone else. The guy
asked me for my name, address, phone number, etc. I made it clear I
was not an authorized service center calling in the beginning. Simply
asked about part availability. I was then questioned if I work on
televisions, and who said the red CRT was bad. I told him I said, and
what's the friggin difference? Is this going to change the answer I
get to my question? This is the Consumer Relatons dept. don't forget.
He switched tunes to telling me I would receieve my answer in the mail
in about 7 days. You pros out there probably aren't surprised since
you deal with this daily. This is unbelieveable to me.

 

Panasonic is similar. I got the run around from them on my 53" rear
projector to the point I wanted to scream.

 

What makes you think the CRT is bad?

Have you checked with VDC about a rebuilt CRT? Have you considered that
changing a single CRT in a set this age is likely to result in difficulty
getting good gray scale tracking?

Mitsubishi customer relations will do nothing for you unless you have the
problem diagnosed by an authorized service center. For all they know you
could be a complete idiot. Not that their ASCs might be any better, but
they have to start somewhere...

I think I have one of these in my used inventory. I'll check it's
condition.

Leonard

 

I do have one. It has very light phosphor wear and emission, cutoff, and
life tests on the Sencore CR7000 are excellent. I believe this CRT was used
in Philips, Panasonic, Samsung, and Apex sets, in addition to Mitsubishis.
None of the manufacturers are buyuing more and if they have run out of their
initial inventory, they simply do not replace them. You should be able to
get a rebuilt tube or yours rebuilt by VDC. Let me know if you want this
used one. I sell used tubes for $60 shipped in the US, as is, no warranty.
Anytime we even suspect a bad tube we do not pull it from a scrap set, we
dispose of it. There is no way that we can know that it did not have a
problem, but this one came out of a philips set that had a coolant
contamination problem as well as convergence problems and the client did not
want to fix it. It is the raw tube with no yoke nor lens.

Leonard

 

Thanks Leonard. A used tube is better than a bad one. I am interested
if you have one to sell. I'm not really familiar with the grey scale
tracking stuff. I have never replaced a yoke. Is there much to this?
I have replaced a tube in my 50" Hitachi. It came complete. Not too
much problem except for convergence, but I did get this corrected. Now
about the existing red tube - set kept blowing a fuse in the vertical
power supply. This particular model apparently had this common problem
due to bad solder joints on the convergence IC's. Took care of all
this. Couldn't get high voltage to come up, but I could hear crackling
noise at power up from the red tube, also could see arcing inside it.
I disconnected the anode from this tube, and the set now powers up
fine with the green and blue tube only. No more crackling noises. I
suspect the set was going into over current shut down? Anyhow, this is
why I think this tube is bad. Please email me with needed info and I
will take the used tube off your hands. I don't know if my email
address shows in this post so here it is - . Thanks
alot Leonard.

 

This is a raw CRT. It has no mounting hardware, so you will have to remove
it from the old tube and put it together. You will need fresh coolant. You
should make sure that your convergence and deflection problems are fixed as
this is likely why the red tube failed. With a vertical failure or severe
convergence offset the beam can hit the side of the tube and heats it up at
the yoke, causing a crack.

If you don't know how to adjust gray scale and convergence you need to get a
manual. Positioning the yoke is easy. YOu just push it all the way to the
top of the neck and turn it until your middle lines match the other tubes on
the convergence pattern.

Leonard

 

Len;

Do you always break down the tube assys from scrap sets ? I don't
think it's the greatest policy for a couple of reasons. Screen burn
being the most important.

Did you say $60 ? I think that is real reasonable actually. I would
pay it.

Believe it or not we recently sold a VS5055. Tubes are strong, but if
one quits I might be looking for one of those shorties. This thing was
something,. I thought it needed a DCM because it wouldn't converge,
and yes I checked things. Turns out the mirror was broken. Tripped me
out.

Remember that lens ? That thing got me a bonus.

I'll be in touch.

Golf, if he says the tube is good it is good, but it will be a pain in
the ass to mount. You look at it and it really isn't all that hard,
but you need things in place correctly before screwing it together.
You can't slide it around, if that gasket leaks it wrecks the set. It
could also cause a fire on the deflection or power board.

Alot of us install a gutter, and this is not a jury rig, manufacturers
have done it too. NEC and Mitsubishi come to mind. I have seen it.
Well the people are our customers now I guess and charred corpses are
not very good at paying. I would say frequently the money is burnt up
as well.

Note that installing an aftermarket gutter will void any remaining
warranty on anything, partly because they can get out of it and partly
because everything will run hotter in there if you interfere with the
air flow. But then if the circuit board catches fire it will be ALOT
hotter than that anyway, so.............

Do as thou wilt.

JURB

 

No, I do not normally break down the CRTs from scrappers. In this case it
had a coolant leak and was messy, so it was a matter of either breaking it
down or pitching it. I don't see what screen burn has to do with it anyway.

Leonard