C
Charles Booth
- Jan 1, 1970
- 0
[Original post was on 2-12-04]
Well, I finally got to the house, entered the code in the good keypad;
the red led lighted. Without disarming the system, I checked the red
led at the "bad" pad and found that the red led was not on. I then
entered the code in the "bad" pad to see if the red led in the good
pad would shut off; it did not.
Conclusion: something wrong with the "bad" pad.
Note: the green ready led in the "bad" pad went off and on when the
nearby door opened and closed.
I repeated the above sequence of checks two or three times to be sure
of my test procedures.
Conclusion: something wrong with the "bad" pad.
"Not so fast," I said to myself. "Let me enter the code again in the
"bad" pad."
I pushed really hard, slowly and deliberately and in turn, on each of
the four code keys of the "bad" pad. Presto! The red led came on! I
tried several more times, and with less pressure, and the red led went
on and off per normal.
I asked the elderly homeowner to watch me arm/disarm the system; I
then had her do it several times.
She happily thanked me for my magic fingers, and off I went to the
next service call.
As I drove the highway, mulling over the tests I performed, and the
cure that seemed to result from depressing hard on the keys, I
realized that there is still one unanswered question:
Why didn't the red led on the "bad" pad light up when I first armed
the system (several times) from the good pad?
Those of you familiar with DSC equipment may be able to answer a
further question: Is is possible for the green ready led to operate
properly when any one of the four wires connecting it to the panel is
disconnected? My recollection of the panel diagram is that the
red/black is for power. What are the yellow and green for?
Well, I finally got to the house, entered the code in the good keypad;
the red led lighted. Without disarming the system, I checked the red
led at the "bad" pad and found that the red led was not on. I then
entered the code in the "bad" pad to see if the red led in the good
pad would shut off; it did not.
Conclusion: something wrong with the "bad" pad.
Note: the green ready led in the "bad" pad went off and on when the
nearby door opened and closed.
I repeated the above sequence of checks two or three times to be sure
of my test procedures.
Conclusion: something wrong with the "bad" pad.
"Not so fast," I said to myself. "Let me enter the code again in the
"bad" pad."
I pushed really hard, slowly and deliberately and in turn, on each of
the four code keys of the "bad" pad. Presto! The red led came on! I
tried several more times, and with less pressure, and the red led went
on and off per normal.
I asked the elderly homeowner to watch me arm/disarm the system; I
then had her do it several times.
She happily thanked me for my magic fingers, and off I went to the
next service call.
As I drove the highway, mulling over the tests I performed, and the
cure that seemed to result from depressing hard on the keys, I
realized that there is still one unanswered question:
Why didn't the red led on the "bad" pad light up when I first armed
the system (several times) from the good pad?
Those of you familiar with DSC equipment may be able to answer a
further question: Is is possible for the green ready led to operate
properly when any one of the four wires connecting it to the panel is
disconnected? My recollection of the panel diagram is that the
red/black is for power. What are the yellow and green for?