Some of the mass-production brands use a colored goop to designate the temperature range.
You have the flat end with one lead, and the pointed end with another lead.
The pointed end may have a particular color goop, isolating the lead at that end from the case.
I'm about ready to take a few days off, and won't be back on.
If you have a color, look it up on the internet (thermal fuse information), to find the temperature range of
the one you need to replace.
If you have trouble, hopefully someone here will get back to you.
In your case, if you have little to no hands-on electronics experience, and don't know anyone that can help you:
I suggest when you have the replacement, cut the bad thermal fuse off AT the fuse itself so you still have the leads
that are riveted to your heating element, Get an all-metal crimp or butt-splice, and crimp the leads of the new
replacement thermal fuse to the existing leads that are already riveted in place.
Don't screw around with that. You need a good, metal, contact to those leads. No plastics or glue. They're
going to get hot, and you need just bare metal for this repair.
If you have problems, ask here, and someone will probably try to help you (before I get back).
If done correctly, this should be a good repair to get you back in business.
Thermal fuses are usually the problem, and not the heating element itself.
Good luck.