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Toner transfer for PCBs having BGA packages on them

  1. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Jan 21, 2010
    (*steve*) submitted a new Showcase Item:

    Toner transfer for PCBs having BGA packages on them

    Read more about this showcase item here...
     
  2. chopnhack

    chopnhack

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    Apr 28, 2014
    Nice work @(*steve*) ! I had toyed with the idea of getting a laser printer, we too have some low expense options from local office supply stores. I haven't seen any with 1200dpi. Have you found that to be the ideal coverage or does it still need a higher dpi? Has playing with the darkness increased your resolution and decreased your unwanted cut through?
     
  3. Bluejets

    Bluejets

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    Oct 5, 2014
    My old original HP mono laser printer died and I replaced it with a Brother HL-2130 for toner transfer.
    More strife than Flash Gordon. Must have tried 50 different ways with no luck. Thought for a while I'd lost my touch.
    Read somewhere that Brother toner is not re-fusable i.e. it's a one off thing so it now sits with my wife's laptop.
    Replaced it with a HP P1102W and everything is back to normal again. i.e. print, transfer, etch, finished.
    Use press n' peel blue toner transfer paper.
     
  4. chopnhack

    chopnhack

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    Apr 28, 2014
    Yes, I had read quite a bit about the Brother units not being useful for our purposes. I wonder why they use toner that is not refusable? I would think that to have that characteristic would be more expensive than what the competitors are using. I wonder if it was necessary for their fuser temp if they did auto duplexing?
    How good is your resolution set at best? Spec says that its 600x600x2 which is HP's way of saying 600dpi but we use software to goose the number - in real life, what is the smallest resolution you were able to achieve?
    Thanks
     
  5. Bluejets

    Bluejets

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    Oct 5, 2014
    Never changed it...just looked now and it is set on Fast Res600 and the other option is for Fast Res 1200.
    My biggest concern usually is with getting the job out of the etchant as soon as possible to avoid undercut.
    Years ago I had a supply of "Dick Smith" copper clad boards and I soon found the copper layer to be like busbar when it came to etching.
    These days use the stuff that comes from China, so I guess there is something to to had from a cheap product.
    i.e. copper layer is thin and etches easily, still enough for most jobs and if beefing up required, I widen the track and run a layer of solder on the track afterwards.
     
    chopnhack likes this.
  6. chopnhack

    chopnhack

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    Apr 28, 2014
    I have had good initial results with etching a board with hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid. I think these chems would work far better for your thicker platings. Have you ever given them a try? Cheap and probably more environmentally friendly than the ferric chloride. The muriatic acid is neutralized at the end with baking soda and the entire deal can be disposed of in your solid trash. If you have the facilities, the mix could go for copper reclamation, but I try to remove the least amount as possible when I etch so I don't feel bad about putting it in the bin. From chem class, acid to water so muriatic acid is added to the hydrogen peroxide.
     
  7. HellasTechn

    HellasTechn

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    Apr 14, 2013
    Ok but ferric chloride is far less dangerous for skin contact if you wash it with water.

    Hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid can give you nasty burns on skin if you are not careful !
     
  8. chopnhack

    chopnhack

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    I've had no problems, but gloves are the best precaution, safety glasses and a respirator too!
    This mixture is more environmentally friendly in my opinion - it can be neutralized with baking soda and disposed of. If you really want to, you could bring this mix to the junk yard for copper reclamation - I would assume that if you had adequate amounts, they would be happy to take it for you.
     
  9. HellasTechn

    HellasTechn

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    Apr 14, 2013
    There is the difference. With ferric chloride you need none of the above gear (just careful not to breath it and even if you do for short time period still does no harm).

    Hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid has given me burns (white stains on skin that hurt but go away if you wash with plenty of water) and i just dont like it.
    :)
     
  10. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Jan 21, 2010
    I agree. Ferric chloride is potentially messy, but is also relatively safe.
     
  11. chopnhack

    chopnhack

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    Apr 28, 2014
    To each their own, I have used both and I am currently in favor of the muriatic acid because of cost, ease of use and environmentally friendly disposal. I didn't think it was faster, but when I thought back to when I used to use the ferric chloride solution (over ten years ago) - I did remember having to leave it for a lengthy time - so this other acid is much faster.

    I don't want to take away from steve's thread re: toner transfer and bga, if you want - @HellasTechn make a new thread describing the benefits of ferric chloride etching vs. h2o2

    @(*steve*) - I had to replace a printer, so I went with a laser this time around - a Dell unit and I am excited to see what it can do resolution wise!! I will post elsewhere to keep this area from getting cluttered unless its relevant to your process. ;-)
     
    HellasTechn likes this.
  12. rlx

    rlx

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    Sep 25, 2009
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