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TIP: 1/4 inch socket with isolated switch/es

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by N_Cook, Feb 15, 2010.

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  1. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I'm getting rather tired of seeing band amp failures due to the use of these
    flimsey domestic grade of amp headphone sockets. Even if you can get hold of
    one off replacements, rather than minimum of 100 , what is the point of like
    for like replacement if only 3 years of use, not abuse, leads to amp

    Current one carried a negative rail for switching purposes so definitely
    isolated switch action required.
    Starting with a standard 2 way or 3 way chassis or pcb mount socket. For 1 2
    or 3 isolated sockets and continued use of the 3 tip/ring/ground contacts to
    an inserted jack.
    Rough up mechanically the outer surface of the moving contact. Solder,
    deliberately messily for later glue bonding, some highly flexible hookup
    wire to the end of a moving contact at the switch contact end.
    Open the contact and feed some 0.1mm or so plastic tape under and around the
    moving contact and wire, bounded by the channel in the socket plastic body.
    Blank off ends with blue tac or whatever and fill the channel with epoxy,
    except a few mm at the hinge end. When cured bend back the locking tang at
    the socket plastic and remove the moving contact and Dremmel/0.6mm grinding
    disc, slice a slot,on the inner side of the moving contact metal, between
    frog (as in brick frog shape) and the contact . Assuming it takes this
    mechanical action, without breaking away, add a little more epoxy slightly
    over the cut and also on and over the free end to beef up even more. Repeat
    , if required on other 1 or 2 poles for more switches. Mount perhaps upside
    down and wire into the pcb.
  2. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    The plastic tape is just for shuttering, so remove of course, when epoxy is
  3. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    AFAIK there is no totally isolated contact pair on those switchcraft. I use
    Watford for valves but sw requirement would have to coincide with valve
    purchase because of min order
    I'd rather spend 1/2 hour adaopting an off the shelf item than 1/2 hour
    trying to find direct replacement , ordering , waiting etc. The -15V would
    go to the existing fixed contact and the potentially breakable contact would
    go to the downstream side.
    Those Jalco , the only strength is the soldering to the board, the plastic
    "body" can flex all over the place, even with solder points in place.

    Not had to make an isolated one before. Nearest was a push in to make
    contact for something I forget what. Soldering a robbed inverted moving
    contct to an existing and extending the fixed to an inverted contact robbed
    from another. Never bounced back so maybe still functional.
  4. [snip remainder of bodgery]

    Honestly, Norm, you and Patrick Turner, the guy who likes to mutilate
    Conrad Johnson amplifiers and such (over in ought to get
    a room together.
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