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T type fuses

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by N_Cook, Dec 3, 2013.

  1. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I've always wondered about the T type fuses with seemingly tight Quick
    type but diagonal fuse-wire and a blob in the middle, compared to the
    more obviously forgiving ones with a spiral wind over a core or a spring
    like part of the wire.
    Laney VC30 valve amp of 1996 with a blown HT fuse. I cannot confirm with
    the owner until tomorow whether it failed at switch on and have so far
    not tested the valves. Barely noticable small white patch on the glass
    barrel of the fuse, so soft blown. At leat 2 years of useage most days
    and all valves no fading of the markings . 4 x EL84 on the HT. The
    manual specifies T315mA spiral wound but the failed one is the straight
    form unless there was a tiny springy bit in the middle , evapoated,
    rather than the usual springy bit at one end. Remnant wire is still
    diagonal , just 2mm missing in the middle.
    So replace with a T315mA spiral one and not go up to 500mA? assuming
    the valves test ok
     
  2. Phil Allison

    Phil Allison Guest

    "Nutcase Kook "

    ** Doubt that is a "T" fuse at all.



    .... Phil
     
  3. Phil Allison

    Phil Allison Guest

    "dave dickhead "

    ** Would you please upgradee yours and put it to good use ASAP ?

    ** Blah, blah, blah - relevant to nothing.

    Massive logical fallacy.

    ** Meaningless, paranoiac advice.

    Begs the question.



    ..... Phil
     
  4. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I assume 250V rating only comes into play after a fuse has blown, ie
    only 2mm or so fused gap . Buss make , and a load of compliance stamps
    so I assume nothing wrong with the fuse other than its non-spiral
    construction.
     
  5. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    Spiral wound T 315mA went back in there
    One of those balance of probabilities fault deduction scenarios. There
    was a bust valve but as zero current for zero bias probably failed spot
    weld and failed months ago unnoticed as only used at low level.
    Bad Hi socket meaning bad Lo input also, due to the cross-coupling
    giving cracks and bangs. But also a bad spade at the speakers so
    probably interpreted as the input problem and repeated moderate back-emf
    surges straining the HT fuse that eventually gave up the ghost at a
    normal switch on surge
     
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