submersible water pump

[cm]

Hello
I have a Johnson Red submersible water pump (model unknown)
240v 60Hz with two sensors (probably water level and heat).

There is 3 wires to the motor windings, start and two run. I have tried
using a contactor (controlled by pressure switch) to no success. The
contactors outputs the 240v but the pump won't start. The motor windings
ohm OK.

I even tried to series the sensors with the pressure switch and the
motor still won't run.

The pump motor IS good, it ran ok on a 'brain box' that went bad and
fried itself, and cannot find another one. Hence the reason to try the
contactor route.

Can anyone please help without trying to make me appear too stupid?
Thanks a bunch,
curt

 

[James Sweet]

Hello
I have a Johnson Red submersible water pump (model unknown)
240v 60Hz with two sensors (probably water level and heat).

There is 3 wires to the motor windings, start and two run. I have tried
using a contactor (controlled by pressure switch) to no success. The
contactors outputs the 240v but the pump won't start. The motor windings
ohm OK.

I even tried to series the sensors with the pressure switch and the
motor still won't run.

The pump motor IS good, it ran ok on a 'brain box' that went bad and
fried itself, and cannot find another one. Hence the reason to try the
contactor route.

Can anyone please help without trying to make me appear too stupid?
Thanks a bunch,
curt

It's probably a PSC motor, in which case you connect power to the run
winding and the capacitor between hot and the start winding. The value
depends on the HP of the motor but they're usually between 15-30uF for
1/2-3/4 HP motors.

 

[Jerry G.]

If the motor windings, bearings, brushes, and etc are good, the
starting capacitor may need replacing. I assume you checked everything
else.

J. G.

 

[James Sweet]

If the motor windings, bearings, brushes, and etc are good, the
starting capacitor may need replacing. I assume you checked everything
else.

J. G.

There generally won't be brushes or a starting capacitor in a
submersible pump, the ones I've seen have been PSC motors so only a run cap.

 

[cm]

There generally won't be brushes or a starting capacitor in a
submersible pump, the ones I've seen have been PSC motors so only a run
cap.

Well, I have shown my own stupidity, I took someone else's word for the
brand of pump, it's NOT a Johnson Red. When the pump was pulled from
the well, it turns out to be a Pedrollo model 4PM/1 220v.

After talking with local pump people, they tell me this particular pump
motor HAS to have a special 'brain' box to run. The one that was on it
fried. The three wires to the pump all check ok, so the pump is ok. The
pump people say this motor runs with the start windings in tack (does
not remove the start winding like a conventional motor).

the windings ohm out to run=2ohms start=5ohms and Total=7ohms.

I've hooked up (through a contactor and a relay with 300mic capacitor)
all the combinations that I can come up with, but all have failed to run
or start the motor. Since this motor is made in Italy, then maybe it
has something to do with the frequency having to be changed in the
'brain' box, I don't know. I really would appreciate any information I
can get about how to run this motor without having to have the 'brain'
box, if it is possible.
Thanks a bunch

cm

 

[cm]

Upon pulling the pump it was identified plus descovered what caused the
box to fry, the pump itself was siezed. The motot is ok.
I wish to thank everyone for their help.
Thanks again,
curt

 

[James Sweet]

Well, I have shown my own stupidity, I took someone else's word for the
brand of pump, it's NOT a Johnson Red. When the pump was pulled from
the well, it turns out to be a Pedrollo model 4PM/1 220v.

After talking with local pump people, they tell me this particular pump
motor HAS to have a special 'brain' box to run. The one that was on it
fried. The three wires to the pump all check ok, so the pump is ok. The
pump people say this motor runs with the start windings in tack (does
not remove the start winding like a conventional motor).

the windings ohm out to run=2ohms start=5ohms and Total=7ohms.

I've hooked up (through a contactor and a relay with 300mic capacitor)
all the combinations that I can come up with, but all have failed to run
or start the motor. Since this motor is made in Italy, then maybe it
has something to do with the frequency having to be changed in the
'brain' box, I don't know. I really would appreciate any information I
can get about how to run this motor without having to have the 'brain'
box, if it is possible.
Thanks a bunch

cm

Sounds exactly like a standard PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor, I
bet the brain box is nothing but a controller, the pump motor should run
fine with just a run capacitor wired in.

 

[cm]

Sounds exactly like a standard PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor, I
bet the brain box is nothing but a controller, the pump motor should run
fine with just a run capacitor wired in.

You are correct, removed the pump from the motor and the motor ran like
a top with Franklin box and contactors with relay controlled cap.
Thank you so MUCH for you help.
Thanks,
cm

 

[James Sweet]

You are correct, removed the pump from the motor and the motor ran like
a top with Franklin box and contactors with relay controlled cap.
Thank you so MUCH for you help.
Thanks,
cm

Relay controlled cap? So is it a capacitor start motor then? PSC would
leave the capacitor connected, no relay needed other than maybe to
switch the motor on and off.