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Straightening tube/valve pins

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by N_Cook, Jan 12, 2009.

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  1. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    In this case someone has been moving all 12AX7 type tubes around and forcing
    them in or something. Anyway pins are bent and drunken and deforming the
    sockets. Any tips for straightening ? A brass block with precisely
    engineered holes to push back all into alignment ? a metal cylinder with 9
    peripheral axial channels to go inside the pinning and something to run
    around on the outer sides of the pins ?
  2. GregS

    GregS Guest

    Seems like too much work to make one. Heres some ideas...
  3. These things exist. e.g.:
    Just up from the very bottom of the page.

    GFGI for [ "7-pin" "9-pin" straightener ]

    No comment on this:

  4. Bryce

    Bryce Guest

    Here in the Colonies, every drugstore had a free tube tester which
    had pin-straighteners: steel disks with 7 or 9 holes flared at the
    top to accept pins and nudge them back into position. That was
    about 40 years ago. As I recall, straighteners were also available
    as buy-your-own tools.
  5. Sudy Nim

    Sudy Nim Guest

    Many times I found a pair of long nosed pliers adequate.
  6. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    From that collection, my idea for non-engineered tool.
    I will try a ring of 9 Souriau connector pins (just the right bore ) on the
    pins of a brand new valve, setting the pins in heat settable fire-cement.
    Then use preceeded by individual pin straightening with parallel jaw pliers.
  7. Bill M

    Bill M Guest

    I hate to see you go through all that rot...unless you're just wanting
    to be creative :) I have a 7 and 9 pin straightener socket screwed to
    my bench shelf that I'll send you free for the cost of postage. They
    don't get much use in my shack. Let me know.

  8. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    old tube testers used to have metal pin strighteners.
  9. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    Years ago when I was a TV engineer with a rental company, I had a pin
    straightner / valve remover in my toolkit. At one end, it had a 'pseudo' B9A
    valveholder one side, made from some kind of hard plastic - maybe bakelite
    even, with slightly 'coned' entries to the pin holes, and a B7G holder back
    to back with it. These were used to straighten pins. This part of the tool
    was then attached to a soft(ish) plastic tube, slightly conical in shape.
    When you had to change a valve in an awkward place, such as at the front of
    an old turret tuner, especially when it was mounted upside down, you just
    pushed the tool over the valve and then pulled. The softness of the plastic
    gripped the glass of the valve, probably assisted by vacuum, and out it
    came. The replacement valve could be fitted by first inserting it into the
    plastic tube, and then using it as an extension to your fingers to manoeuvre
    it into the valve holder. Once in place, the tool could be gently rocked and
    removed, leaving the valve in place. I have a vague suspicion that this tool
    was actually supplied by Mullard, but I could be wrong there. I have a clear
    memory of it being a baby blue colour. Happy days ...

  10. *Rummages around in the "box-o-stuff" Ahhh, here we go.

    Belling & Lee Ltd.
    Made in England

    Yuppers, baby blue, soft rubber with hard black 7 and
    9 pin tube base inserts.

  11. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    You already own one and I don't, and I wish to get the pins straightened
    today and the repair back out the door, as I need the space.
  12. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    Ah well - after more than 35 years, I don't reckon that was too bad a bit of
    memory on my part !! Not Mullard but Belling Lee. I knew it was someone
    famous in the trade ! Might still have been actually distributed by Mullard
    though ...

  13. Arfa Daily

    Arfa Daily Guest

    I still have a DIP IC pin straightner in my toolbox. It has a central
    mandrel which is spaced for standard DIPs - your common 14 or 16 pin logic
    ICs for instance - on one side, and for wide DIPs like EPROMs, on the other.
    Either side, is a spring loaded arm, with a shoulder made to butt against
    the mandrel when the tool is squeezed closed in your hand. Made from hard
    blue plastic, it is a bit like one of those squeezy hand muscle exercisers
    or stress relievers. You simple drop your IC with snaggled pins, over the
    appropriate mandrel, and squeeze. When you let go, your pins are back in
    line. Obviously, it only corrects pitch on the wide axis, but if the pins
    are out of line with respect to each other, you can quickly correct that
    with needle nosed pliers. A most useful tool, which has seen much service
    over the 25 years that I have owned it.

  14. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    A 20 minute job making a straightener and pins are now sober. It would have
    taken that to track down a UK supplier and order one and then 3 days at
    Also my method could be used for non-standard pinnings
  15. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I just tried googling
    valve pin "straightening tool"
    nothing found
  16. Geez, how many techs or engineers does it take to straighten a few pins??? :)

    I'd just go with a fine tipped needlenose and be done with it in 5 minutes.
    Or if you want to get fancy, a thin rod with an appropriately sized hole
    drill in it!

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  17. PeterD

    PeterD Guest

    That 'fire-cement' doesn't ring a bell here in the US, have a brand
    name I could look up? Sounds like an interesting product.
  18. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    I use both types for all sorts of uses.
    But mainly the heat setting type as its cheaper for bulk use compared to
    epoxy and it of course takes heat. It can crack so reinforce with car repair
    glass fibre/fiber mesh if that is critical.
    Recently bought, as I used up the previous 1Kg, tub of the heat setting type
    called Pyrum fire cement, so still sold in the UK.
    To cure, I use a hot air gun on a low setting for an initial surface
    hardening , as in this straightener job. Removed the valves (I used one at
    either end of the pins when it came to it, each covered with ptfe tape to
    keep the valves clean) after intial surface set. Then heat up at full whack
    to fully harden the resin , its then as hard as stone in a few minutes.

    The other type , non setting, trade name may not exist any more Hermetite
    flue jointing compound. Mine is probably 20 years old but still useable. I
    tend to only use it when I've robbed a right V & W halogen bulb from one
    dicroic mount and are having to, suck it and see, adjusting the position in
    another size/shape of reflector, also robbed.

    If you find a USA trade or generic name and post back here, I will add to my
    UK/USA technical translator file
  19. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest

    should be

    Pyruma fire cement
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