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steps for replacing generator rotor, stator, capacitor

Discussion in 'Home Power and Microgeneration' started by mozza, Jul 8, 2008.

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  1. mozza

    mozza Guest

    would someone have a link or tips on steps for changing the capacitor, rotor
    and stator on a generator powerhead?

    this unit has a capacitor and engine speed controlled rpm which maintains
    60-61 hz at 3600 rpm. the engine is a honda 390 GX.

    I can see a little discoloration on the parts when I took off the powerhead
    end cover and was told that it would be good to replace the capacitor, rotor
    and stator, parts cost me about 400.00

    the parts place did not have any special directions, they just said to take
    off cover and that it should not take more than 1 hour and that no special
    tools are needed. I wanted to be sure I don't screw up anything in the
    process, thus the question.
     
  2. Ulysses

    Ulysses Guest

    Not knowing what the generator head looks like I can't really say but in
    general the capacitor has two connectors that can usually be unplugged.
    There is usually one screw and/or a spring clip retaining it.

    The stator is usually held on by four screws. On some the screws are fairly
    short and located at the engine end. Once the screws are remove it is
    sometimes necessary to use a puller along with a washer or large socket etc
    (to push against) to remove it. This is the case with the Mecc Alte Spa
    units I have worked on. On others with screws that run the entire length of
    the stator some gentle pursuasion is sometimes called for such as a soft
    mallet once the screws are removed.

    To remove the rotor: once the stater is removed then remove the screw that
    fits into the engine shaft. It is usually very long. If it was
    overtightened when the generator was made it could break off and then you
    will have a big problem. Do whatever it takes to avoid breaking the screw.
    Once the screw comes out what you have (on all of the generators I have
    worked on) is a tapered shaft with a tapered rotor stuck on it. It can be
    difficult to remove. What I have done many times is to use a block of wood
    (grain end-wise) and carefully place the wood against the front bearing or
    other such durable location and smack it with a hammer. Turn the shaft 180
    degrees and smack it again. Keep turning it and smacking it until it comes
    free. Be sure and place something under the rotor so if it falls it won't
    be damaged. I have never damaged a rotor doing this but it is a possibility
    so the usual disclaimers apply. There might be some kind of special puller
    but I've never seen one. When replacing the rotor I always put a film of
    oil or vaseline on the mating tapers so it will be a bit easier to remove
    the next time.

    Replacing the rotor and stator is like replacing the entire generator head.
    Why are you doing this?

    I don't know about the voltage regulator as none of my generators have that
    feature.

    Just off the top of my head I *think* the next letter designation on the
    serial number on the GX engines indicates the type of shaft with "V" being a
    tapered generator shaft. I suggest you double-check that though. It is
    unlikely that it is not a tapered shaft.
     
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