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Stator removal help

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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Greetings all,

I have been trying to remove the hollow shaft from this stator to continue a project I'm working on but have failed.

I have about 15 of these but I have damaged on as a test to try and find a way to remove it if possible.

I was going to buy an arbor press to try and press it out but I fear it would damage the green coat. I am however trying to separate the commutator from the stator if possible. I am willing to rewire it as well.

2.jpg IMG_20190807_180847 2.jpg IMG_20190807_180918 2.jpg
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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I do not see a stator, only a rotor.
I do not see a commutator, only a green yo yo.

i would guess that they are assembled with an interference fit and will not come apart without damage.
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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I do not see a stator, only a rotor.
I do not see a commutator, only a green yo yo.

i would guess that they are assembled with an interference fit and will not come apart without damage.
I thank you for you assessment, I was unsure of the proper terms and did the best I could.
The "green yo-yo" as you call it has the wires connected to it, I thought this might be where the power connects.
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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Show a picture of the motor. You may be right and you show a stator but only if the body of the motor turns.
There seems to be 16 poles and a commutator will have 16 segments. Where does the wire go that is resting on your hand?
 

Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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This appears to be a wound and then baked stator, what purpose do these devices serve?, they appear to be a form of rpm sensor, resolver etc , they appear to me too small to be a form of motor attached to the large item shown.
M.
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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This appears to be a wound and then baked stator, what purpose do these devices serve?, they appear to be a form of rpm sensor, resolver etc , they appear to me too small to be a form of motor attached to the large item shown.
M.
They are what I pulled them from. All of them are connected to that shaft. the guy I bought them from, had several GM motors.
The shaft has a geared tooth end while the other end has the copper wound rotor with what looks like a brush/brushless? mount beside it.

You said it looked baked. does that mean if I remove it that it would damage the green coat and/or part?

Notes: The drum like thing beside the rotor has the wires leading to it with a tape like substance around it.
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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Show a picture of the motor. You may be right and you show a stator but only if the body of the motor turns.
There seems to be 16 poles and a commutator will have 16 segments. Where does the wire go that is resting on your hand?

For these I do not have the motor, I only have about 15 of these shafts with that small piece connect via washer and screw at the tip. The end of the larger shaft the these are connected to has a gear toothed end.
As I said to another , the little drum thing beside the stator/rotor? ,has the wires leading to it and has a type of tape? around it.
I can provide better pictures later. Got two young ones that keep me busy So I took quick pics.
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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Show a picture of the motor. You may be right and you show a stator but only if the body of the motor turns.
There seems to be 16 poles and a commutator will have 16 segments. Where does the wire go that is resting on your hand?
Here is an update with more photos
As I said there are many like this
crop parts 2.jpg crop parts.jpg Personally at this point I am thinking of using a saw to separate the copper wrapped part from the part next to it.
all the odd stator/rotor? parts remove from that shaft via nut at the top then a c-clip, all the shafts shown in photos are magnetized.
 

Minder

Apr 24, 2015
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I very much doubt those armatures would be driving those shafts, they appear to be a tachometer/encoder sensors.
M.
 

Alec_t

Jul 7, 2015
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Could they be rotary transformers (or parts thereof)?
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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Not sure, my use for them only involves removing the copper wired part. These have been the smallest stator/rotor type pieces I could find. I will research "rotory transformers" and "tachometer/encoder sensors."

I will attempt to use a saw to separate the "white taped" drum like piece from the copper wound part.

If anyone knows of actual stators this small ,it would be helpful. these are only about a half inch wide
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Kelly B . . . . .

Looking at your WHOLE bag of marbles and evaluatig the SHAFT sizes and the miniscule rotor and fine wire utilized . . . . methinks . . . . .this is being a sensor related function.

Could you check your unit and see how many of my YELLOW mark up segments there are all around the unit . . . I'm guestimating from what I am able to see that there are going to be 16, which would divide by 2 as being 8 pole pairs.
My PINK arrow is marking where you need to inspect as being copper wire pairs coming down from the windings on the poles at the top.
Then suspicioning that they are then forming individual mu-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-u-ltiple turn copper wire coils around that CHARTREUSE ferrite core dumbell coil form, with its resultant round N and S poles being where my CHARTREUSE square markings on the rings are.
Those windings will be wound in the direction of my BLUE arrow.

I am seeing that now, two aspects are being totally amiss, admittedley being on another non shown section.
That should be two or more magnets associated with magnetically inducing their field into the rotor at the top.
AND another ferrite based coil akin to the coil at the bottom, and it will be dumbell style also but with it being HOLLOW in order to accept the bottom CHARTREUSE coil that we just covered . It needs that coil to drop down into it . . . a la the white and black arrow path . . . and have the ferrrite rings aligned with each other, yet only be having about a .005 inch clearace from their touching, as the shaft rotates.

This construction would constitute a rotary transformer and lets data be transferred magnetically from a rotating object . . . . with no electrically noisy, failure prone / related slip rings or brushes.

ASSOCIATED PHOTO ILLUSTRATION . . . . .
upload_2019-8-29_9-58-42.png




73's de Edd . . . . .


Soooooo, about this 'a here fuzzy logic, that I am hearing more and more about . . . . . . . . does it tickle?


 
Last edited:

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
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IMG_20190829_111544.jpg IMG_20190829_111557.jpg IMG_20190829_113055.jpg Confirmed, it is 20 segments and copper is wound around the dumbell. Is there any way to sperate them? the dumbell from the segment part without damaging them? The green coat seems to be a burden here.

I tried pulling actual stators from smaller dc motors but they are not the right type or size for my project. In the end I need a small stator center of that magnet. and another running the same direction on the opposite side.
S/N -> [] [] <-N/S
Stator { } stator 2
S/N-> [] [] <-N/S

Slight cut away diagram
2 magnets, 2 stators. There is more two this. I am adding a rotor to the center but that is a post for another time.

Thank you all for your help so far.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Kelly . . . .BEE


Me thinks that you are dreaming of an impossibility, in your being able to use / repurpose that existant wound rotor to construct a motor.
With its existant wire sizing, and using a low voltage supply, in resulting in a power plant being minimally able to drive a mouses balsa go-cart at a creep.

Its needing an added complete construction of an armature and its 20 contact segments and 2 brushes with their holders interwired to those fine wire rotor windings.
Built to dynamic balancing and holding within a .001 in rotary eccentricity.
Then a stationary, fixed position ceramic rotary ring magnet, incorporating 20 peripherally magnetized, side by side, alternatively polarized segments.
surrounding your rotor.
That would be the simplest manner of fulfillment of the magnetically fixed field requirement that the rotor repels against.

Forbid . . . shudder -shudder . . . . the having to wind 20 sets of fixed electromagnetic field coil sets. . . . . vice the preferred use of a fixed permanent magnet field source.

The action would be an inverse of the depiction shown below, wherein , the shown rotor windings need to be rotated 180 degrees from their shown positions, such that the magnettic field is shooting outwards instead of inwardly, thus making them the peripheral windings of a rotor.
Then the 6 side by side ( you need 10 ) magnetically polarized RED-BLUE segments of the shown rotor is ENLARGED in size, so as to SURROUND the rotor and just establish rotary clearance of .005 in with the internally spinning rotor and the fix mounted magnet.

Go Dog Go . . . .

magnet-assembly.gif





Thaaaaaaaaaaassit . . . . .



73's de Edd . . . . .



Diplomacy . . . . . now, that, my friend, is the art of saying . . . . . " NICE doggie ! " . . . . . j u u u u u u u u u st until . . . . . you can reassure yourself by finding a BIG rock or stick.





.
 

KellyB

Aug 7, 2019
8
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Aug 7, 2019
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Thank you, I see now that even with the mag-lev project I am working on. These still will not drive the propeller.

In an earlier model, I had the propeller running but destabilized at higher rpm bout 5600. (non-factory bends in the blades most likely caused this disturbance.)

Now I have a different approach to the condition of the propeller. All that is left is the driving power.

[] / []
{ / }
[] / []

/ = propeller

Now,
I believe you should do a youtube channel 73's de Edd ,millions of people would love to see this personality of yours expressed.
 
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