Split phase motor control
Thanks for your reply Resqueline.
I think your referring to the coolant used in fridge applications, the units ive removed have been domestic, both i could stall at less than 100 psi, G above knows what unit produces 300 psi, i am a qualified diver and have understanding of gas laws, not that i dive these days.
The units producing over 20 bar must be industrial, ive sliced the top off one domestic unit, in hope of clues to improve start stops, removing windings would be tricky, there bound in a oil resistant nylon, if i alter the start relay turns winding, wont this maybe start it quicker, but more likely generate more heat, tripping the thermal cut off ? .
My attempts to stall it was a finger placed over the positive pressure out put, gauge connected it stalled at about 85 psi or there abouts, i could hear it slowing, some induced pressure load and it runs, but slower, ive tried a triac dimmer type circuit, that was poor control, to slow, no pressure load, and it stalled, probably a centrifugal switch putting the start winding in circuit, yes i think your probably right, larger air receiver, and less frequent stop / starts, only charging to a max of about 60 psi, as the units max is near 80 psi, and the 25 to 30 psi i want for airbrush propellant wont give much time differential, 150 psi would be better, but the domestic units ive looked into wont get no where close to that.
The manufacturers of these units for air brushing use the same hematically sealed units, but i guess there spec on production takes into account the duty cycle, and possibly different winding conditions for the start / stops.
I have only pursued it for a long time as i believe there is a way round it, and a purchased airbrush pro units start at £ 350 and go up sharply.
Thanks again for the ideas.
Dave.