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Speaker repair - frame to cone wires?

C

Charlie+

Jan 1, 1970
0
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.
Anyone been down this road? Thanks
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Charlie+ said:
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.
Anyone been down this road? Thanks


Tinsel wire is the term.

Maybe not fine/multistrand enough. I have used extra-flexible "hook-up" wire
about 60 strands, .05mm diam strands , sleeving stripped off. Then plaited
so 3 ply for the current carrying. All I can say is the speakers have not
bounced back.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
If such multistrand not available then skein some .05mm wire and taking 5
strands together lightly plait 3 such bunches, plait those together , repeat
3 times and plait those together. Trying to keep the plaiting as loose as
possible.
 
P

Phil Allison

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Charlie+"
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.


** I regularly strip the " tinsel " leads from speakers that are no longer
usable - for just your purpose.

So find some old woofers, quality immaterial and do likewise.

Or, try eBay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...nkw=speaker+tinsel+&_sacat=See-All-Categories



..... Phil
 
C

Charlie+

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Charlie+"


** I regularly strip the " tinsel " leads from speakers that are no longer
usable - for just your purpose.

So find some old woofers, quality immaterial and do likewise.

Or, try eBay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...nkw=speaker+tinsel+&_sacat=See-All-Categories



.... Phil
Thanks for the link and suggestions folks, ill get some on eBay, hope it
arrives intime from US or have to do a fix and redo after with the
proper tinsel wire later! Havnt' got any duff speakers about..
 
G

gregz

Jan 1, 1970
0
Charlie+ said:
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.
Anyone been down this road? Thanks

Solder sucker wire ?

Greg
 
A

Adrian Tuddenham

Jan 1, 1970
0
Charlie+ said:
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.
Anyone been down this road? Thanks

Close-woven braiding from screened cable can be used, even though it is
not ideal; if you thread cotton down the centre, it can help to
distribute the flexure over a greater length and will prolong its life.
Make up a hank of many strands of carpet thread and pull it through the
centre of the braiding with a loop of tinned copper wire.

Even better than cotton is a single strand of spring steel wire, such as
piano wire. It needs to be carefully tinned before threading it through
the braiding, then it will solder to the end connections and distribute
the bending.

If you solder any kind of flexible wire, there will be a sharp bending
point where the solder finishes. Try to support it flexibly for a short
distance beyond this point, otherwise it will soon fracture. With a
little ingenuity, silicone rubber sleeving and hot-melt adhesive can be
used to achieve the desired effect.

Never use a straight connection, always allow a fair degree of slack in
the braiding - ideally take it around a 90-degree bend or even a right
angle so as to distribute the bending. If there is no alternative to
having the end connections in line with the movement, form the length of
braid into one turn of a helix so that it behaves like a compression
spring.
 
A

Adrian Tuddenham

Jan 1, 1970
0
Charlie+ said:
Needed for a big do in about a week so quick and dirty repair required
but be better if the repairs lasted!
I tried a repair on these speakers about a year ago for my sisters
family but the repair hasnt lasted... I used uncoated a fine
multistrand copper spiral twisted wire for the tagboard to cone
connections - industry uses a knitted wire for this , any suggestions
for a longer lasting material? Guessing these are abot 80W ~10"
speakers being used at high volumes, vibration stress of the wires is
the failure not electrical.
Anyone been down this road? Thanks

Close-woven braiding from screened cable can be used, even though it is
not ideal; if you thread cotton down the centre, it can help to
distribute the flexure over a greater length and will prolong its life.
Make up a hank of many strands of carpet thread and pull it through the
centre of the braiding with a loop of tinned copper wire.

Even better than cotton is a single strand of spring steel wire, such as
piano wire. It needs to be carefully tinned before threading it through
the braiding, then it will solder to the end connections and distribute
the bending.

If you solder any kind of flexible wire, there will be a sharp bending
point where the solder finishes. Try to support it flexibly for a short
distance beyond this point, otherwise it will soon fracture. With a
little ingenuity, silicone rubber sleeving and hot-melt adhesive can be
used to achieve the desired effect.

Never use a straight connection, always allow a fair degree of slack in
the braiding - ideally take it around a 180-degree bend or even just a
right angle so as to distribute the bending. If there is no alternative
to having the end connections in line with the movement, form the length
of braid into one turn of a helix so that it behaves like a compression
spring.
 
C

Charlie+

Jan 1, 1970
0
Solder sucker wire ?

Greg
Thanks, i thaught of that but originally i thaught probably a bit too
heavy and if it hit self resonance might tear the cone .. might be
wrong but ....!
 
C

Charlie+

Jan 1, 1970
0
Close-woven braiding from screened cable can be used, even though it is
not ideal; if you thread cotton down the centre, it can help to
distribute the flexure over a greater length and will prolong its life.
Make up a hank of many strands of carpet thread and pull it through the
centre of the braiding with a loop of tinned copper wire.

Even better than cotton is a single strand of spring steel wire, such as
piano wire. It needs to be carefully tinned before threading it through
the braiding, then it will solder to the end connections and distribute
the bending.

If you solder any kind of flexible wire, there will be a sharp bending
point where the solder finishes. Try to support it flexibly for a short
distance beyond this point, otherwise it will soon fracture. With a
little ingenuity, silicone rubber sleeving and hot-melt adhesive can be
used to achieve the desired effect.

Never use a straight connection, always allow a fair degree of slack in
the braiding - ideally take it around a 90-degree bend or even a right
angle so as to distribute the bending. If there is no alternative to
having the end connections in line with the movement, form the length of
braid into one turn of a helix so that it behaves like a compression
spring.

Thanks for your suggestions, my sister managed to track down a source of
the correct silver tinsel wire in UK (speaker repairers to the pop/PA
industry) so problem solved as long as the RoyalMail doesnt lose the
envelope!!
 
P

Phil Allison

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Charlie+"
Thanks for your suggestions, my sister managed to track down a source of
the correct silver tinsel wire in UK (speaker repairers to the pop/PA
industry) so problem solved as long as the RoyalMail doesnt lose the
envelope!!

** Nice.

Far better to use the correct wire - cos even that is barely good enough
sometimes.


..... Phil
 
P

Phil Allison

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Phil Allison"
"Charlie+"


** Nice.

Far better to use the correct wire - cos even that is barely good enough
sometimes.

**Anecdote:

A few years ago, I had an Alesis brand monitor speaker (6.5 inch plus 1
inch) to fix - with a customer complaint of " no sound". An ohm meter check
showed a dead short at the terminals, but strangely the woofer cone was
moving freely under finger pressure.

Unscrewed the woofer and could hardly believe what I found - the woofer's
two tinsel wires were joined in the middle, like Siamese twins !!

After separating the wires, a test with low frequency sine waves revealed
the problem - with 60Hz to 80 Hz drive both leads vibrated towards each
other and it was possible for them to meet in the middle.

I had to shorten each lead by over 2cm and give them a 1/4 turn twist in the
terminal holes to fix the issue - then did the same procedure to the other
box in the pair, which proved to be almost as bad.



.... Phil
 
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