Connect with us

Source for Parts

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by Ivan Mascovich, Oct 19, 2005.

Scroll to continue with content
  1. I am building a lighted model ship which is my first electronics project.
    (e.g. blinking lights). I have been through a number of part catalogs
    (digikey, mousers, etc.) looking for the following.

    1. Male and female connectors with about 10-12 wires. Would like to buy
    with lengths of wire attached. Would like a connector no more than about
    an inch across. Prefer multi-colored wire.

    The purpose here is to build the ship parts in components, be able to
    test the lighting for each component, then connect together when the
    components are linked.

    2. The electronics and switches will be outside the ship. I need to run a
    cable similar to those described above through the base. The base has
    pillars that run up into the bottom of the hull. To make the connection I
    would like to have a male plug on one of thes pillars and a female socket
    inside the hull such that when placed upon the base, one gets a
    connection. I need something with about 10-12 connections that are fairly
    sturdy. (Only needs to be detached a few times a year for display - not
    heavy duty - but bent pins would be a pain.)

    My inability to locate such parts may be a result of inexperience at
    reading the part catalogs. I have found ribbon cable with female
    connectors but I have not seen the male connectors with ribbon to go with
    them. I haven't seen anything like #2. If anyone have any suggestions for
    sources I'd be interested in hearing them.

  2. <much snippage>

    I would suggest D-subminature connectors - like the DE-9 and DB-25
    connectors used on PC serial and parallel ports. There is a DA-15
    size midway between the 9 and 25.

    You are unlikely to find these (or most) connectors with wires already
    attached, unless you buy a cable and cut it apart.

    You could use the bare D-sub connectors without hoods to reduce the
    length of the connector.

    Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
    peterbb4 (at)
    new newsgroup users info :
    GPS and NMEA info:
    Vancouver Power Squadron:
  3. Lord Garth

    Lord Garth Guest

    You might try Molex at this link:

    Then select wire to wire under their quick links and put in your

    24 gauge wire using and IDT (Insulation Displacement Termination)
    on 2 rows would be fine...
  4. Jasen Betts

    Jasen Betts Guest

    maybe you could use mini-din plugs (they're round and under half an inch
    across - as seen on many mice...)
    you get upto 8 pins per plug, so you may need to use 2
    and you'll have to attach the wires yourself. (so you'll need a soldering

    but really the answer depends on how big this model boat is and how much
    current those lights need, you may do better with connectors designed for
    automotive use, and soldering may be the most conveneint way to connect
    wires to those too.

  5. I'll take a look. Soldering's no problem. I migh even be able to get away
    with 7 circuits. I would probably use every one available for effect.
    The ship is about 4 1/2 feet long. I can see putting over 100 LEDs in it. I
    am seeing current drains of 2.5 AMPS at 9 volts. Another problem here is
    the power supply. 3 AMPs would be safe but i don't see many 9v AC adapters
    putting out that much current.
  6. Jasen Betts

    Jasen Betts Guest

    They can be had (generally a box with a lead that runs the outlet) or you
    could split the LEDs into three groups and use three 9v1A plugpacks.

    but I don't think the pins on a mini din are rated for that sort of current.

    those barrel shaped plugs they use on the plugpacks are good for about 4A i
    think maybe you could run the DC into the boat through one of them and put
    your lighting switching electronics inside the and just run control signals
    to switch relays or transistors etc) through the (or use a 15-pin VGA
    connector etc...)

    on the other hand if you go to a electronics parts store (instead of a
    toystore like r-s) ypu may find they have a plug that more closely
    matches your needs.
    I've found such places listed in the yellow pages unser "electronics
    parts wholesalers". IME they are happy to sell single parts to
    walk-in cash customers.


  7. I ended up buy 2x1.5 AMP power converters.

    Obviously I would not want to put both in parallel. If someone unpluged one
    power source while the whole thing were running - POW!.

    However, I was wondering if it would be OK to have a common ground, say
    connect both power supply + terminals together but have the -'s remain
    separately. The reason being to have the ability to have a single master
  8. Jasen Betts

    Jasen Betts Guest

    that would work as , you could also have them both in series (so long as 18V
    isn't going to be a problem and the power converters are putting out DC)

    or you could use a double-pole switch to switch both simultaneously.
  9. James Newlon

    James Newlon Guest

    You might try a place in Morgan Hill California called Alltronics, their
    website is at

    and if you need further assistance beyond that call them at


    and tell them Jim sent you. They have lots of new and used electronics items
    and other things of interest.

Ask a Question
Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?
You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.
Electronics Point Logo
Continue to site
Quote of the day