Sony RPTV KP-46V15, powers on, but no picture or sound............

[MrAndy]

Hello, i have the Sony KP-46V15, must be at least 10yr old now.....anywho,
it will power on via remote or front panel, you'll hear the normal
'click' and 'electric surge' sound as always, plus the bit of 'static'
sound as set energizes...but there is no longer any picture or sound on
any input, just the green input label which seems to jitter a bit.

This happened once a long time ago and simply turning set off and
unplug/plug ac cured it....it happened again just the other day and i did
the same thing and it worked. Now it's done it again, but this time it
appears to not want to come back regardless of what i do.

Any idea what this may be for a failure? This set has been relegated to
the master bedroom so it has only seen occasional use lately, but has
been used heavily for 75% of it's life. I'm betting this will not really
be worth it to fix, can anyone talk me out of hauling 'er to the recyclers?

Thx for any info.

 

[[email protected]]

There is no way to know without proper troubleshooting and diagnosing
inside the set. The tv has multiple protect circuits that will shut
the set down if there is any problem detected.

If the picture still looked good the last time you used the set, you
should at least have it properly diagnosed and get an estimate for
repair. Especially if you can haul it into a Sony experienced servicer
(save the in home trip charges, up to $100). Typical repair in 90% of
cases is less than $250 if you take it in, some less than $150. You
cannot replace it for that kind of money.

 

[MrAndy]

There is no way to know without proper troubleshooting and diagnosing
inside the set. The tv has multiple protect circuits that will shut
the set down if there is any problem detected.

If the picture still looked good the last time you used the set, you
should at least have it properly diagnosed and get an estimate for
repair. Especially if you can haul it into a Sony experienced servicer
(save the in home trip charges, up to $100). Typical repair in 90% of
cases is less than $250 if you take it in, some less than $150. You
cannot replace it for that kind of money.

thx for taking the time......i guess that's one way to look at it, i
suppose what was leaning me to the 'dump' side was that if i repair it, it
is essntially at it's design life and i'm still putting money into a 10+
year old set that may fail again....however, i guess it could continue
running too. I did have a couple covergence ic's replaced a few year ago
so this would be the 2nd repair..

...the picture did look quite good still before this behavior.....except
for an intermittent 'faint flashing' of 'faint white' (very hard to
describe) & happened very intermittently ...(i wonder if the two are
related?)....hauling it off to repair center won't work i'd have to
eat the srvice call chg......hmmm......btw, would there be any indication
of a fault in service menu?...or is there a way to do some sort of 'reset'
that could 'rearm' some sort of protection circuit that went off?

Thx again.

 

[Art]

If there is a stored fault codex the service menu access will allow the
technician to retrieve and interpret it, or the leds on the front panel
will flash a sequence, 1 through 8 depending on the failure. Can you
retrieve the on screen menu, showing video, setup, audio, etc?? Does it
also bounce?? At least leave the tech have a go at the thing.

 

[Billy]

Could be just a loose solder connection, easy fix.(shouldn`t take a repair
man more than 15 or 20 minutes to fix) if not, you should try yardsales, or
moving sale, at a moving sale I picked up a 27 inch color TV with remote,
works perfect for $30.

 

[MrAndy]

Could be just a loose solder connection, easy fix.(shouldn`t take a repair
man more than 15 or 20 minutes to fix) if not, you should try yardsales, or
moving sale, at a moving sale I picked up a 27 inch color TV with remote,
works perfect for $30.

Art, yeah the user menu comes up as well, it bounces a li'l bit like the
input label.......the red light blinks i think 5 times when i power it up
.....i think this is what it always did, maybe i'm wrong......

 

[MrAndy]

Could be just a loose solder connection, easy fix.(shouldn`t take a repair
man more than 15 or 20 minutes to fix) if not, you should try yardsales, or
moving sale, at a moving sale I picked up a 27 inch color TV with remote,
works perfect for $30.

Thx Billy, yeah it might be worth checking out, thx for the tip.

 

[MyShadow]

I had a sinilar problem couple of year sgo fixed it for the cost of the
IC STRS6301 chip $7
and my time doing that.
that is all I had to change
If your Sony has that chip
that MAY be all that is needed to change .. as it was in my case.. do
some more research
there is tonns of info on the net regarting IC STRS6301 in a Sony
...good luck

Apparently it is extremely common for the power converter IC STRS6301
to
die. It's the same on my 20EXR20 - mine's blown twice since 1991! My
Dad's
27EXR20 has blown once. If you are a gambler that this is the only
problem, try replacing this IC. I paid about $10 for one from Newark or
MCM. The STRS6301A seems to work as the current replacement, said to be
more robust. ECG 7046 or NTE7046. I was advised to try adding a bigger
heatsink to the present heatsink to aid cooling, which I did. We shall
see! Servicers tend to charge about $150 for this repair.
View this article only
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
Date: 2001-02-14 23:20:05 PST


Bill:
Follow the suggestions on the reply post from Jerry G. ........ he is
absolutely correct in his diagnosis and repair suggestions.
Forget the schematic, you may not need it for this repair........If the
power supply IC is a STRS6301/A, replace it. Also check all the
electrolytics on the power supply board with an ESR meter.........no
ESR
meter??...then replace them all.....if any of the electrolytics are bad
you
can blow the new IC in short order.
This is a very common and frequent failure mode in this power supply
design.
Before firing up the television be sure to check the HOT and
surrounding
flyback circuitry for high ESR electrolytics, shorted diodes and other
semiconductors, open low ohm resistors, and check the solder
connections on
all of the heat producing components like power resistors, diodes,
power
transistors and chips, etc.