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Sony Bravia KDL-46XBR4 Problem

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by bigtony5858, Jan 7, 2014.

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  1. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    Hi all!

    First off I want to thank anyone in advance for any advice you may able to provide me. I have taken up the challenge of fixing an issue I am having with my Sony Bravia and have read numerous forum responses on similar issues for other users. The Model number is KDL-46XBR4 and was manufactured in 2007.

    I will start with the symptoms I am having:

    -TV starts up sometimes and everything seems perfectly fine. It does not shut off or do anything out of the ordinary. But other times when you try to turn the tv on the green light turns on but there is no screen, sounds, or back light. I also get the standby light that flashes 5 times. The more the TV has been turned on and warmed up the harder it becomes to start the tv up.

    -I have found two badly damaged SMD capacitors on the Main Board (AU board part# A-1362-637-A) I will attach these images including the location of these capacitors on the board.

    I really have two questions:
    - I know I have read many and many forums about the T-Con board being the cause of this 5 blink signal by the diagnostic system, but can a damaged main board cause any malfunction that would fail to send a proper signal to the UB-1 & T-Con board? I will obviously have to fix this issue on the main board, but want to make sure I am not trial and error fixing on this thing.

    - Someone had mentioned it looks like possibly water damage and you know after looking at the bottom screw it looks like there could have been possible corrosion on it as well. If it water damage can this board be repaired by swapping the two SMD capacitors? If that does not look like water damage to you and it is just two blown capacitors can they be replaced?

    - Based on the pictures I have provide can this board be repaired? The capacitors have leaks all over the area and my plan was to remove these capacitors and clean up the area with a cotton swab and iso-alcohol. After this is completed I was going to replace to two SMD capacitors (47uf 16v & 10uf 16v) with the same rated capacitor, but with leads on it and just bend the feet to fit on the surface mounted circuit board. I was hoping to try this method instead of purchasing a used board off ebay (which is only about $25) so I can learn how to repair such items and to save as much money as possible.

    I have read about the issues of trying to replace a T-Con on this unit and am trying to make sure that I am being realistic with my expectations of this TV. I greatly appreciate any assistance any of you very helpful individuals on this site and I look forward to any knowledge you may be able to provide me!
    Tony
     
  2. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    Here are the pics sorry :)
     

    Attached Files:

  3. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Well, I agree that replacing those caps (and possibly removing components around them so you can properly clean the muck off) would be the first step.
     
  4. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    So I cleaned off the area now that i'm back from work and this is what is underneath :)
     

    Attached Files:

  5. davenn

    davenn Moderator

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    Sep 5, 2009
    so does it work now ?

    if not then you probably need to replace those 2 caps. All that corrosion you cleaned off was most likely the electrolyte that had leaked out from one or both of those caps.

    There may yet be other problems, but the replacement of those caps is a must

    cheers
    Dave
     
  6. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    I put everything back together and at first it turned on the first two times (albiet a little slower than last), but then it did the same thing. I asked a local tv person and this was his response:

    "Hello,
    To answer your first question, yes it is possible that the damage to the AU board could affect the reliability of the diagnostic information and or interfere with normal operation. Furthermore, a 5 blink error code can be caused by several components, not just a faulty T-Con.
    It is difficult to say for certain, but it does look like water damage around those two capacitors. We would first need a closer look at the damaged AU board to determine if it is repairable.
    Our diagnostic fee for that set (carry in) is just $25. "

    I am leaning towards just buying a replace AU board since this appears to have the obvious issues in the area with water damage. Is there anyone that can provide any other input to better diagnose the issue?? Thanks again everyone for your time!
     
  7. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

    25,271
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    Have you changed the capacitors?

    If the cleaning alone improved the problem then I'd reckon that about $1 of capacitors would fix the problem.

    After they run the $25 diagnostic, they'll probably tell you the fault is on the $300 board that you're looking at. (just guessing).

    Do you have any experience soldering? Any experience with surface mount?

    We've offered you the same advice now three times. Don't you like it?

    If the damage was due to water ingress, it would more than likely affect more than just one board in just one place (are there more signs? Is this just under a vent that someone's used as a cup holder?)
     
  8. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    I have not changed the capacitors just yet. One reason is that I have never had any experience with surface mount soldering and am worried that there may be additional damaged to the even smaller diodes/capacitors that are in the same little area. I am afraid my lack of experience in surface mount soldering could only add to the issue :eek: lol I have watched several youtube videos and read tons of forums on the techniques, but still am hesitant :) I also have had a difficult time finding a solid state capacitors in any local shops here in Phoenix, AZ.

    I am kinda unsure if cleaning the area really made a difference. It seems the warmer the TV gets the less often the thing turns on. When it is cold it turns on almost immediately, but after it is warm it will go to the standby red blinking light and blink 5 times repeatedly. I very closely inspected the rest of the of the boards in the television and did not see any additional spill areas, except for a small bit of corrosion on a small transistor leg on the Power supply board, but am not sure what that may mean???

    I completely agree that if I were to salvage the board I would need to replace these two capacitors. The reason I am even questioning going through this is that I found several replacement AU boards ranging $16 to $30.

    And I hope my additional questions are not hinting that I do not like your advice:( I am so very greatful for you to take the time to help me with this issue:)

    Thank you again!
     
  9. davenn

    davenn Moderator

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    Sep 5, 2009
    that's pretty indicative of capacitors failing as they warm up

    but to replace those 2 needs a steady hand and a reasonably fine tipped soldering iron
    but definitely not impossible for the home hobbyist :)

    if you can get a replacement board easily for ~ $20 odd go for it :)

    Dave
     
  10. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Jan 21, 2010
    Those capacitors are just normal electrolytics. You might even be able to replace them with through-hole components.

    The larger one is a 47uF 16V and the smaller one is a 10uF 16V

    These capacitors actually have leads that pass through the black plastic part at the bottom and fold under where they are soldered. You may be able to pass the leads of a through-hole capacitor through the same holes and make your own franken-capacitor!

    If you've done any electronic soldering, you should be able to remove these. Heat the two leads alternately and you should be able to remove them -- you need to be fairly quick so both sides remain melted. Be careful you don't yank hard on them and pull away the copper tracks.

    Re-soldering them is a case of getting the polarity right, and then having three hands. One to hold the capacitor, one to hold the soldering iron, and the third to handle the solder.

    The lead nearest the black stripe on the top is negative.
     
  11. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    HELP!

    I think I may have found something on the power supply, but I cannot tell what it is/ if it supposed to look like this????? It was on the bottom and labeled C6305. I am assuming this means this is a capacitor, but I cannot tell if it is supposed to look like this with all this red die around it?????

    Thank you again everyone!

    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

  12. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    This is the information on that small piece, but I just can't tell if it blown or not?

    C6305 1-162-964-11 CERAMIC CHIP 0.001μF 10% 50V
     
  13. KrisBlueNZ

    KrisBlueNZ Sadly passed away in 2015

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    Nov 28, 2011
    It looks fine to me. I don't know what the purple colouring is, but I doubt it's a problem. The component looks undamaged and properly soldered.

    Are you sure that marking relates to the component beside it? It looks like a glass component. Maybe that's just the photograph. If it's made of glass, it won't be a capacitor; more likely a diode. But in either case it looks fine to me.

    I think you may be wasting your time looking over the board trying to find something that doesn't look right. I'm not even sure that those electrolytics are faulty. It could just be a splash of water on the board.

    While you're working on it, make notes of any changes you made, any measurements you take, and all tests and their results. It's easy to forget details, and to lose track of which order you did things in.
     
  14. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    If you look in that picture there is an identical component list as C6307 and you can see a small red dot below it. The reason I thought it could be damaged is because i researched how these ceramic chip capacitors fail and it is through cracks and the only real way to tell is through a tiny microscope or dye penetrate testing. what do you think?

    I also agree with you that the corrosion in that area the more I look at it the more I am leaning towards it being water corrosion, but ordered a new board for $25 bucks just in case it damaged and of the vias or diodes in that small area.

    Thank you for your advice will certainly do so and completely agree that taking this thing apart can become overwhelming for a rookie like me :)
     
  15. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

    12
    0
    Jan 7, 2014
    Sony Bravia KDL-46XBR4 T-Con Compatability

    Hi There All!

    I am currently waiting for my Main board to arrive to see if it can solve the issue I have been having with my Sony Bravia KDL-46XBR4. I am preparing for the worst and want to find out my options in the even that this component does not fix my issue. The issue I am having is the TV sometimes turns on and when it does there are no issues at all. Other times (and most of the time) I will push the power button and the Sony light and the green light will turn on and there is no sound, screen, or backlight. After waiting for about 5 to 10 seconds the Sony light turns off and the green light turns into a red light that flashed 5 times (T-Con error). The reason I chose to replace the AU main board was because I could see visual areas of corrosion from some type of liquid damage. This only appeared on the main board though. I very thoroughly inspected all other components on in the tv and the only area that appeared to be damaged was the main-board. I replaced the capacitors in the area of corrosion and there was no change. In fact, the thing no longer turns on but hasnt really turned on the last couple days before I swapped the capacitors.

    Now my question turns to the t-con, which is what the most obvious answer is for this televison. My TV has the following product numbers:

    T-Con Board- 404652HHC8LV1.8 / LJ94-01954F
    Panel Number- LTY460HH-LH2
    Serial # 2-8026053

    I know that Sony did not sell these t-cons separate from the panel, which makes it very difficult to find a reasonably priced one. I have come across them very occasionally but have been wanting to wait until i try the new main board which I got for really cheap from Shop Jimmy. What I need to know is if I could use the following:

    - 404652FIX2HC6LV1.2 / LJ94-01953H T-Con Board (See Link http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-lj94-01953h-t-con-board.htm )

    I noticed on their website that both of these items list the same panel number and model number. I have also read in an old forum that these two products are interchangeable electronically, but not mechanically (the heat sinks are different), but have received different answers from two different Shop jimmy employees.(Click here for link to forum ) One said yes and one said there is no substitute. My two questions are:

    -can I use this other part since there are tons of them for sale?
    -If not, does anyone have access to one that is reasonably priced?

    I may not need it if the main board fixes the issue, but I want to be thoroughly prepared since it kind of sux not having our living room tv operating :)

    Thanks for all you help and knowledge I truly appreciate it!

    Tony
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2014
  16. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

    12
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    Jan 7, 2014
    Sony Bravia T-Con Power Spike and drop?????

    Hi all!

    I have been diagnosing what is wrong with my Sony bravia KDL-46XBR4 and took the entire t-con board off of the panel to inspect it. I decided to create a solder bridge across the top of the fuse because it appeared that the fuse may be bad. When I did so and hooked it up there was a noticeable change. I took my ohm meter and decided to put the positive side (with it switched to 20 DC) and put it on the back of the t-con fuse. The meter read, 3, 6, 10, 12.2, 1, 3, 5, 10, 12.1, 0 and while it was spiking up and back down I could hear a strange clicking sound on the t-con itself. At every very quiet click the power would drop back to zero or close to it.

    I tested the power coming into the UB1 board from the GF1 board and it was a steady 12.4, which I thought was a good sign it is not a power supply issue.

    Next I tested the UB1 board and the power on this board was surging in the same way peaking and dropping back down to zero. When I would disconnect the LVDS cables the surging stopped, on both of the boards so I tested the power on the FB1 board and it was steady as well.

    Any ideas????? Im thinking t-con is bad, but would like to know before I drop some big bones on it to find out its the UB1 board which is easy to find and cheap.

    Thanks!

    Tony
     
  17. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    If there's a fault on the board, you may have just made it a lot worse.

    Why did you think the fuse was bad, and why didn't you replace the fuse?
     
  18. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Bigtony5858, it is better to keep everything in one thread so we don't start asking you all the same questions.
     
  19. bigtony5858

    bigtony5858

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    Jan 7, 2014
    Well I had read on a forum that someone had did this after they suspected their fuse was blown and it worked :-( I hope I didn't burn anything else up by doing this do you know if I could have damaged it any further? I tested it with an ohm meter and there was no continuity when i place the testers on both sides.

    I apologize about the change in forums I will make sure and keep it in the same thread:eek:

    Tony
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2014
  20. (*steve*)

    (*steve*) ¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd Moderator

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    Jan 21, 2010
    The fuse is there to blow if something draws excessive current.

    Shorting out the fuse might be fine if the fuse died due to some transient overload, but leaves the board and the power supply (and potentially your home) unprotected.

    If there is a board fault which blew the fuse, the excessive current has not been allowed to flow. Maybe something else burnt out, reducing the current (and hiding the location of the fault),

    The best thing to do now is to remove the solder bridge and replace the fuse. See if it blows. If it doesn't, at least we know that the power supply is safe from (possibly further) damage.

    You were getting a replacement board anyway weren't you?

    Probably worth waiting for it and seeing if it fixes the fault. At least that will confirm that it is this board that is faulty.

    It also allows you to compare the two boards to play a game of "spot the difference" (a very useful fault-finding technique)
     
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