Soldering

Most of the answers to your questions can be found here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

If you have any others, please ask

 

If this is a TO3 cased transistor .... you shouldnt even be trying to solder to the case
anyway!!!

you should be mounting the transistor onto an appropriate heatsink and have solder
lug(s) under one of the screws/nuts and solder onto that solder lug then there will be
absolutely no problem with soldering any connections to the transistor

cheers
Dave
VK2TDN

 

Apart from requiring enough heat and flux, it may be worth cleaning the leads of the transistor with an ink eraser (slice the end of it, place the lead in the slice and move up and down).

I hope you're not trying to solder onto the body of the transistor. The connection to the body is usually made mechanically (i.e. through one of the attachment bolts).

 

Check again, the 2N6504 is a 50V rated device. You'd be looking for a 2N6507, 2N6508, or 2N6509.

In another of your threads I made some observations of what I *think* you're doing. 1000uF of the capacitors I think you have would be easily capable of supplying more than 300A. My rough guess would be that 600A would be a ballpark figure, but it could conceivably exceed that by some margin.

 

Use ohms law to calculate the maximum current. For 300V and 1.3 ohms what is that?

Have you measured the inductance of the coil? Will it saturate at a current less than the maximum allowed by the resistance of the coil? Given the charge stored in the capacitor, the resistance of the coil and its inductance, how fast will the current rise, and what will its peak value be?

You need to be able to answer most (if not all) of these questions.

It doesn't work that way. You can almost guarantee that one device will hog all of the current. The other problem is triggering all of the devices at *exactly* the same time.

You're better off with a device that can handle the current. I'd be looking at something more like this http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=ST230C04C0-ND

How did you measure the discharge time?

From that time, how did you calculate the current?

87.93% of statistics are made up.

Don't worry too much about lead poisoning from leaded solder. Most of the smoke is the flux and it's visible. Just work in a ventilated place.

kinda... Look up the specs for the battery.

For a given temperature it will specify a charging voltage and current. Set your power supply to that voltage (it may be 2.35V) and set the current limit to a value no greater than the charge current. The battery will initially charge at the current you have set your PSU to and eventually this will reduce as the voltage on the battery rises.

Beware of any charging restrictions that may apply (see the data sheet)

If your power supply does not have a current limit (not a rating, a variable current limit) then you can manually adjust the voltage to achieve a suitable charge rate, but it's a tedious process, prone to error, and not recommended.