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Soldering Wires

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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Hello I am trying to solder wires to a camera and im completely lost on what to do. I wanted to solder the wires to a camera that connects to a motherboard with a motion sensor that signals the camera to take a picture. I have posted the pictures of the camera.
 

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(*steve*)

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Those conductors are insulated and you would have to remove this before attempting to solder to them.

This looked like a flexible PCB and the spacing appears narrow. It is not going to be easy and if you fail you may render the camera inoperable.

Can you find a better place to some the wires to?
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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Those conductors are insulated and you would have to remove this before attempting to solder to them.

This looked like a flexible PCB and the spacing appears narrow. It is not going to be easy and if you fail you may render the camera inoperable.

Can you find a better place to some the wires to?

Are you asking if I can find a better pace to solder the wires. Im not sure but I cant try to make one lol. I also have another camera I can try this on as well but im willing to try both cameras. I got this one for very cheap it was a great deal. here is the other camera. How would I be able to remove the pcb I was a bit scared in taking it off on this one cause im not sure what else I would have to remove before taking it off. I am posting the other picture.
 

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hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Jun 21, 2012
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Hello I am trying to solder wires to a camera and im completely lost on what to do. I wanted to solder the wires to a camera that connects to a motherboard with a motion sensor that signals the camera to take a picture. I have posted the pictures of the camera.
You need to get a camera with a remote shutter actuation feature. The remote actuator is a flexible but stiff wire in a protective sheath that screws into the shutter release button. On the other end is a thumb-operated plunger that pushes on the wire to actuate the shutter, but you can also purchase one that has a small solenoid for electrical actuation. Much easier than hacking into the camera. Here are some Google links that might help.

What are the model numbers of the two cameras you are about to butcher?
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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You need to get a camera with a remote shutter actuation feature. The remote actuator is a flexible but stiff wire in a protective sheath that screws into the shutter release button. On the other end is a thumb-operated plunger that pushes on the wire to actuate the shutter, but you can also purchase one that has a small solenoid for electrical actuation. Much easier than hacking into the camera. Here are some Google links that might help.

What are the model numbers of the two cameras you are about to butcher?

Are you sure I would need a remote shutter because im trying to get the camera to take a picture upon motion with a motion sensor that is connected to the camera
Sony Carl Zeiss Cybershot 14.1 megapixels

vivicam 3715 3.3 megapixels
 

poor mystic

Apr 8, 2011
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Are you sure I would need a remote shutter because im trying to get the camera to take a picture upon motion with a motion sensor that is connected to the camera
Sony Carl Zeiss Cybershot 14.1 megapixels

vivicam 3715 3.3 megapixels

Hi
It's not absolutely necessary to use a remote shutter trigger - but it is easier to use an electronically activated trigger than to hack into the camera. The approach hevans1944 is suggesting would save you from the need to modify the camera, and would allow you to use any camera - not just one you've modified.
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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Hi
It's not absolutely necessary to use a remote shutter trigger - but it is easier to use an electronically activated trigger than to hack into the camera. The approach hevans1944 is suggesting would save you from the need to modify the camera, and would allow you to use any camera - not just one you've modified.
so if I used a trigger how would i connect that trigger to the motherboard that has my sensor?
 

poor mystic

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:)
If I haven't completely missed the point of your thread, the "motherboard" must have an output of some kind.
Perhaps it would help to give some details of the motherboard. A photo might be useful, as well as anything you can give us in text.
 

(*steve*)

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Ok, so that camera has no obvious method of remotely firing the shutter.

Even if you solder wires to the shutter release button, you may have to solder more than 2 wires as it appears that the shutter release is the traditional two step style.

Can you get access to the back of the shutter release button?
 

hevans1944

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Are you sure I would need a remote shutter because im trying to get the camera to take a picture upon motion with a motion sensor that is connected to the camera
Sony Carl Zeiss Cybershot 14.1 megapixels

vivicam 3715 3.3 megapixels
Unless the motion sensor is built-in to the camera, and is designed to take a picture when the sensor is "triggered," you need a remote shutter release. What other reason would you have to hack your cameras?

Unfortunately, the advice I gave you is not applicable to the cameras you have: they have no provision for a remote shutter release. You can proceed with your "modification" at your own risk. Or, you can design and build a camera holding fixture that has a solenoid plunger to actuate the shutter release remotely, using a signal from your "motherboard" motion sensor. Or, you can purchase a cheap "point and shoot" compact camera that does have a remote shutter release. Good luck with the "cheap" part of that. There is also software that works through the USB port on the camera (normally used to download images) to allegedly implement a remote shutter release function from a desktop or laptop computer. This software may not work with all cameras. And here is a link to a page with lots of other links that may help you solve your problem.
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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:)
If I haven't completely missed the point of your thread, the "motherboard" must have an output of some kind.
Perhaps it would help to give some details of the motherboard. A photo might be useful, as well as anything you can give us in text.

I think this is my latest picture im not sure but I wanted something like this and I was going to solder the wires to the camera
 

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NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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Ok, so that camera has no obvious method of remotely firing the shutter.

Even if you solder wires to the shutter release button, you may have to solder more than 2 wires as it appears that the shutter release is the traditional two step style.

Can you get access to the back of the shutter release button?
I am not sure if I can im not well versed in this I posted 2 different cameras so I guess its a matter of which camera is easier to work with.
 

hevans1944

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I admire your ambition. Once you get the intricacies of camera hacking down pat, I think you should consider a career modifying Rolex watches for use on Mars by future astronauts. Should be just a matter of swapping out a few gears and such to account for the longer day and (if there is a calender function) the longer year.
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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I admire your ambition. Once you get the intricacies of camera hacking down pat, I think you should consider a career modifying Rolex watches for use on Mars by future astronauts. Should be just a matter of swapping out a few gears and such to account for the longer day and (if there is a calender function) the longer year.

well one step at a time :D. the camera hacking thing is very hard I have no clue on what to do like I do but I don't somewhere in between those
 

(*steve*)

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Many cameras have a 2 step shutter release. A "half press" wakes the camera up, activates automatic focusing, etc, and a "full press" then activated the shutter release (when the camera is ready).

To minimise shutter lag (the wait for the camera to be ready), you need to give sufficient time between the "half" and "full" press. In circuits I've made, I have activated the "half press" up to a second before the "full press".

If you want to take shots **NOW** then you might even have to leave the "half press" activated constantly (this may be the easiest).

Some cameras allow you to only close the "full press" contacts, but others require the "half press" ones to be closed as well. You discover this by experimenting :)

So, your sensor would complete the "full press" circuit, and you would either a) leave the other pair unconnected, b) leave the other pair shorted, c) switch both pairs together (you may require diodes), or d) need to do something more clever.

Sorry, I thought you had 2 of the same cameras. It would be easier to give the make and model numbers rather than their attributes too.
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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Many cameras have a 2 step shutter release. A "half press" wakes the camera up, activates automatic focusing, etc, and a "full press" then activated the shutter release (when the camera is ready).

To minimise shutter lag (the wait for the camera to be ready), you need to give sufficient time between the "half" and "full" press. In circuits I've made, I have activated the "half press" up to a second before the "full press".

If you want to take shots **NOW** then you might even have to leave the "half press" activated constantly (this may be the easiest).

Some cameras allow you to only close the "full press" contacts, but others require the "half press" ones to be closed as well. You discover this by experimenting :)

So, your sensor would complete the "full press" circuit, and you would either a) leave the other pair unconnected, b) leave the other pair shorted, c) switch both pairs together (you may require diodes), or d) need to do something more clever.

Sorry, I thought you had 2 of the same cameras. It would be easier to give the make and model numbers rather than their attributes too.
Attributes are under the model number
Sony Cyber-Shot DSC-W530 14.1 MP
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Cyber-Shot-DSC-W530-Vario-Tessar-Wide-Angle/dp/B004H8FNNA

Vivitar Vivicam 3715 3.3 mp D019920C - had a bit of issue finding the model number online verifying what I was seeing at the bottom of the camera so I just went ahead and put that number
http://www.amazon.com/Vivitar-Vivic...432600355&sr=1-1&keywords=vivitar+3715+3.3+mp
 

The Didact

May 17, 2015
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Yes, I've learned on my digital cruddy camera that a half-press must be done at least a second ahead of full press. Still doesn't improve quality, though...
 

Kenneth Tan

May 22, 2015
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If I understand correct, you want to connect the circled via's to another board?
Why not brush the green mask of the traces and then cut two rows of 8 holes of a single sided perfboard. Strip a piece of awg24 sranded wire and pull the single strands apart. Solder these single wires to the via's and on yhe other end to the perfboard. Hotglue the perfboard to the pcb of the camera. Now you have a good anchor point to solder a poece of flatcable from the camera to the other pcb. Old xbox mod trick.
 

NoviseUser2014

May 24, 2015
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If I understand correct, you want to connect the circled via's to another board?
Why not brush the green mask of the traces and then cut two rows of 8 holes of a single sided perfboard. Strip a piece of awg24 sranded wire and pull the single strands apart. Solder these single wires to the via's and on yhe other end to the perfboard. Hotglue the perfboard to the pcb of the camera. Now you have a good anchor point to solder a poece of flatcable from the camera to the other pcb. Old xbox mod trick.
ohhh ignore the circled dots on the photo. I just need to somehow connect wires from that shutter to something like this photo. The big thing on there is a sensor that detects movement. I want movement detected from that board to signal the camera to take a photo
 

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