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Soldering surface mount components

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by Daniel Kelly \(AKA Jack\), Jun 8, 2004.

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  1. Go to Newark In One and search the key words [flux pen]. They sell
    several different fluxes in a felt tip pen dispensers.
     
  2. John Larkin

    John Larkin Guest

    We sent out some BGA chips (560 or so balls) to be soldered. The guy
    who did it for us applied no solder, just used the solder coating that
    came on the board. He said you have to apply the flux with a bare
    finger, nothing else will do. He did xray every joint, and all the
    boards worked fine.

    John
     
  3. Andre

    Andre Guest

    Thats pretty neat :) I have some dead cameras here with fried BGA
    controller chips.

    BGA chips are a total pain to solder- you need a proper infra-red
    reflow unit and X-ray scanner which your average hobbyist (except
    maybe Sam G and/or Chip Shultz) won't have access to.

    :)

    -A


    -A
     
  4. Dear Gordon,

    Many many thanks for your reply.

    I've had a search for the video and can't find it anywhere.

    Do you know for sure where I could get hold of it in the UK?

    If not, I would be most indepted if I could get a copy from you. Could you
    e-mail me a DivX or something?

    Many many thanks,
    Jack
     
  5. Dear Gordon,

    Actually, don't worry - I've just phoned up Eagle, METCAL's UK supplier, and
    they're sending a CD-ROM to me in the post right now! How cool is that?!?
    Thanks so much!

    Jack
     
  6. Cyclonus

    Cyclonus Guest

    Wow, thats really great, I suppose you wouldnt know whom I could
    contact in Canada to get a copy of that CD??

    Maurice
     
  7. Gordon Youd

    Gordon Youd Guest

    Maurice, Try their site www.metcal.com

    CANADA

    EMX
    (Manufacturers Rep)
    227 Idema Road

    Marhkam, ON, L3R 1B1, CANADA

    Phone: 905-475-8000
    Fax: 905-475-2300
    Email:

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    EMX
    (Manufacturers Rep)
    5950 Frued #23

    Montreal, PQ, H4S 1T1, CANADA

    Phone: 514-484-6565
    Fax: 514-482-2221
    Email:

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Adtool
    (Distributor)
    10 Ronald Drive

    Montreal, Quebec, H4X 1M8, CANADA

    Phone: 514-482-2548
    Fax:
    Email:

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Adtool
    (Distributor)
    141 6200 MacKay Ave.

    Burnaby, B. C., V5H 4M9, CANADA

    Phone: 604-618-2924
    Fax:
    Email:
     
  8. Metcal has a nice Fluxpen ("FP-1") with a brush-like tip and
    squeeze-dispenser that works very well when filled with liquid flux - I use
    no-clean flux, which is non-sticky, but it should also work with rosin flux.

    cu
    Michael
     
  9. Cyclonus

    Cyclonus Guest

    On Thu, 10 Jun 2004 23:06:41 +0100, "Gordon Youd"
    Thanks!, I sent a request off the the local Canadian office.

    Maurice
     
  10. Hans Summers

    Hans Summers Guest

    You people are all talking about flux, solder flows, PCB's, but you've got
    it all wrong!

    You should take a look at my page
    http://www.hanssummers.com/electronics/equipment/spectrumanalyser2/index.htm
    .. About 2/3 the way down you'll see a closeup photo on the left hand side,
    showing a 24-pin TSSOP packaged ADC chip. The pin spacing is 0.65mm (Ok, so
    not quite your 0.5mm). You can click the picture for a larger version.

    I did this with:

    NO magnifying glass
    NO special lighting
    NO hot air etc
    NO special soldering iron, just my old 18W Antex CS
    NO special bit, just my Antex 1mm bit type 1106
    NO special solder or flux, just ordinary 22swg 60/40 multicore fluxed solder
    NO pre-etched PCB, just a piece of PCB stock I cut some pads in with a cheap
    plastic craft knife
    NO fancy rigs to hold the work, just loose on the bench, with the IC glued
    to the board

    And it worked first time.

    I've soldered other SMD IC's too, but this one was the most extreme. You'll
    also find less tiny spacing'ed SMD IC's soldered on these pages of my site:

    http://www.hanssummers.com/radio/polyphase/index.htm
    http://www.hanssummers.com/radio/ozon/index.htm
    http://www.hanssummers.com/computers/newz80/intro.htm
    http://www.hanssummers.com/electronics/equipment/riskometer/index.htm

    Anything's possible ;-)

    Hans
    http://www.HansSummers.com
     
  11. Chuck Olson

    Chuck Olson Guest

    You must be very near-sighted.
     
  12. Mariano

    Mariano Guest

    So how did you do it then? you forgot to tell us how

    - solder tip size?
    - solder type?
    - ...
     
  13. Hans Summers

    Hans Summers Guest

    No, I did tell you (at least, I did tell you those things)... here's my
    original relevant sections pasted in again:
    solder

    As for process:

    This TSSOP had 24 pins (unfortunately the catalogue had claimed in was DIL,
    but in reality it was SMD. Pity I didn't read the datasheet carefully enough
    and match up the part numbers).

    So anyway, I carved two columns of small pads on the surface of the unetched
    PCB using a knife (one of those ubiquitous dirt cheap orange "craft"
    knives). 2 columns of 6 on each side of the chip, makes 24. I couldn't do 12
    per side because they would have been too narrow for me to cut with that
    knife. I left a space in between the pairs of columns either side, for the
    IC.

    The IC was glued in position. Now alternate pins on the TSSOP are bent
    upwards. So considering the left hand side, pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 continue
    resting on the newly carved first column of 5 pads. Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12
    are bent upwards away from the board. Then I took ordinary multi-core wire,
    and took single copper strands from it. These pins 2, 4, 6 etc were
    connected to the outer column of 6 pads using these thin copper strands.
    Bending alternate pins of the IC in opposite directions makes it possible to
    solder to the pins even with this 1mm iron bit.

    Have another look at the picture,
    http://www.hanssummers.com/electronics/equipment/spectrumanalyser2/index.htm
    and you will be able to see some of the things I'm talking about (the
    columns of carved pads etc).

    Hans
    http://www.HansSummers.com
     
  14. Hans Summers

    Hans Summers Guest

    No, not at all. You should probably be worried about my sanity though ;-)

    Hans
    http://www.HansSummers.com
     
  15. Hans Summers

    Hans Summers Guest

    Right, valves ;-) I forget the valve types. If I recall it contains only
    two valves, but I might be remembering wrongly. You can find a large picture
    of it here:
    http://www.hanssummers.com/electronics/equipment/signalgenerator/sig.htm . I
    did open it and take some photos of the insides, but I got the focus all
    wrong and didn't bother to re-open it again. I've even got a copy of most of
    the manual, sent to me by an Irish radio amateur who has the same generator.

    Hans
    http://www.HansSummers.com
     
  16. Hi all,

    I've read this thread with a lot of interest, as I have a small bit of
    surface-mount work to do, but no experience working with these tiny
    components.

    I would have thought that when working with these components, you would have
    to use a different approach, and try to keep the component cool (as it'll
    fry otherwise), but this thread seems to suggest otherwise.

    Can someone straighten me out on this subject, as I have a feeling that
    Nokia will want me to purchase a new phone circuit-board (~£70) if I ask
    them to repair it, when it's only a minor soldering job that is required.

    Thanks in advance,
    - Steve
     
  17. "Steven McGahey" < (remove
    Modern components are very seldom destroyed by heat.
    Components are made to withstand soldering heat for 10 seconds, or so.

    If you fail to make a good soldering joint in 5 seconds, wait for a few
    minutes before you make a new try, to let the component cool down.
     
  18. John Larkin

    John Larkin Guest


    Surface-mount parts are designed to be soldered in a reflow oven,
    where the entire loaded board gets heated above solder-melt
    temperature for a minute or so. Most parts don't mind. I just solder
    them by hand, and it pretty much always works.

    I have seen some surfmount LEDs turn to putty when hand soldered. The
    transparent plastics seem to be fragile.

    John
     
  19. Hand soldering can be very hard on SMD ceramic capacitors.
    The high temperature gradiant created by applying heat suddenly
    at one end can fracture the ceramic. This can lead to excess noise
    or a tendency to break down at a lower than rated voltage as
    moisure gets into the crack(s). The insidious aspect of this kind
    of damage is that it can show up in the field, quite some time
    after the parts perform alright in initial testing.

    At Siemens Ultrasound, we learned this the hard way, then had it
    confirmed by at least one vendor's examination of abused parts.

    ....
     
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