Sir Philadelphia 1 . . . . . . .
You do know that you are working with a probably "UNOBTANIUM " / NLA circuit board . . .don't you ?
After looking at your component extraction prowess . . . . I believe that EVERY foil pad on the board is quaking and saying . . . . .
Get the hell out of here ! . . . "der TERMINATOR isht comink ! ! ! "
The fail path layout is given on the large layout while the VERY bottom schema relates to the assigned color coding of the involved foil paths of the fuse.
We have a given that the MINUS 22VDC supply is first filtered by C5018 and has to make an inclusive circuit path from its NEGATIVE terminal over to the NEGATIVE terminal of C5027.
So take ohmmeter in hand and spike one probe into C5018 negative and work down the foil trail that I have marked in PURPLE, with its lowest point looking like it connects to one lead of the fuse.
The other lead of the fuse looks like it goes down to L5008 via the LIME GREEN path until it reaches the very end that I have stopped at.
Go to the other C5027 caps negative terminal and see it routed up the BLUE path until it reaches its uppermost position.
Now somewhere in this LOUSY layout drawing which SONY has given us, there should be a JUMPER WIRE connecting those two routes . . .End of the BLUE line at its top to the bottom of the LIME GREEN line .
Ohm between the two to confirm, if they are being connected together, if so all is well.
Then you just need to go back to the Fuse area and see the two foil paths that the fuse needs to be connected between . . . . less its NOW destructed original pad.
I would now like to castigate you on your poor / destructive parts extraction expertise . . . .to which you reply . . ."BUT . . .won't that HURT ?" . . . . .to which I reply . . .no . . .I said . . . . . c a s t i g a t e !
When you were pulling that defective . . .. e.g. . . sacrificial . . .STK unit . . . .you should have loosened it from the heat sink and flexed it to its limits for 148 and 'leben nineteenths times, until metal fatigue had then popped all of its 18 connector pins.
( CUZ . . . .even micro-mini dikes don't get into that cramped area too well !)
THEN add a drop of fresh solder to a pins solder pad, for enhanced thermal transfer, and then pull out the pin from the other side, with a pair of needlenose . . . only 17 left to go !.
If that was a leaded / pigtail fuse you should have had a small pocket or jewelers screwdriver under one of its leads, close to the feed thru hole on the component side of the board.
The screwdriver tip is against the pcb so you basically have a controllable lever to lift the lead out . . .AFTER . . . you place that one drop of fresh thermal enhancing solder to the pad
Then the whole blob just liquefies . . .and you lever out the lead.
Straighten the lead and then you brace a closed fist against the boards component side while the finger and thumb pull the lead out, after solder melting its foil pad.
Good thing that we did not have to see much below our involved area, as Sony has made an unreadable double overlay on the very bottom of the page.
Thasssit . . . . .
Techno Referencing:
73's de Edd