Connect with us

Soldering Lacquer Coated Earphonephone Wires

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Nelson, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. Nelson

    Nelson Guest

    God, I hate earphone wires! You would think after all this time
    someone would be able to figure out how to keep them from fatiguing and
    breakingŠ usually right at the molded rubber jack housing.

    So I have an expensive Sennheiser noise canceling set where the wires
    have broken at the jack. Each "wire" is actually a bundle of very fine
    wires twisted around each other and a string-like fiber reinforcement
    strand. The fine wires appear to be lacquer-coated, like you would find
    in a transformer winding.

    I am planning to trim back from the breaks and solder the three wires
    to a Radio Shack jack. I am wondering how to strip the lacquer or
    whatever the insulating coating is from the individual strands without
    breaking them or shorting them out.

    Anyone have any experience or advice?
     
  2. "Nelson" wrote in message
    It's long been my opinion that the "strain relief" -- because it works over
    too short a length of the cable -- is often what causes the break.
     
  3. Nelson

    Nelson Guest


    Thanks. I'm thinking I'll add an old ball point pen spring beneath the
    tubing for strain relief.
     
  4. Mark Zenier

    Mark Zenier Guest

    In most of the headphones I've messed with, the wire in insulated
    with solder-strippable enamel insulation. All you need is a HOT
    soldering iron. Avoid the smoke.

    Mark Zenier
    Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)
     
  5. I've fixed these before. Did yours have the weird battery modules?

    just burn the shellac off the wires with a blob of fresh solder. I can't
    imagine that's not how they make the things in the first place. Use thin
    needle nose pliers as heatsinks so the cable doesn't burn up and
    "retract".

    I used braided tubing to build up the diameter of the thin cord to that of
    the strain relief in a new 1/8 stereo plug, and a couple layers of heat
    shrink. My repair is 100 times better than the bogus factory plug.
     
Ask a Question
Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?
You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.
Electronics Point Logo
Continue to site
Quote of the day

-