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Shock Sensor

S

Steven

Jan 1, 1970
0
Is one better recomended that the other? Sentrol 5150 vs Ademco ASC-SS1
Thank you Steven
 
F

Frank Olson

Jan 1, 1970
0
Steven said:
Is one better recomended that the other? Sentrol 5150 vs Ademco ASC-SS1
Thank you Steven


Use the Sentrol if you have to. Care to tell us a little more about the
installation you're working on??
 
S

Steven

Jan 1, 1970
0
It's a slider type windows in this home (condo), Each pane is about 35x20.
closed loop zone, There are only 9 windows in this unit. Steven
 
F

Frank Olson

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'd suggest having a custom window security screen fabricated that would
span the entire width of the window. Properly installed (on the outside of
the window), your customer would enjoy being able to open the window without
worrying about knocking off a "bug" or "stretching" the wire. In addtional,
he could open it as wide as he wants on a hot day and still enjoy full
protection.

There are a number of companies in the US (and Canada) that are involved in
fabricating and upgrading window security screens. You can check out one of
them here:

http://www.securityscreens.com/

Google "security screens" or "window security screens".

Another option is to go with alarmed window barricades.

http://www.micronsecurityproducts.com/micron/

These units remove easily in the event of an emergency, but will also
"fault" the zone (if your system's disarmed), or sound the siren if it's
armed.
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
besides shock sensors are not bird friendly

I've used those IEI lithium battery powered ones a few times when situation
called for it and the prewire co. only ran 2 conductor. They work well..only
problem is when battery goes.

message | I'd suggest having a custom window security screen fabricated that would
| span the entire width of the window. Properly installed (on the outside
of
| the window), your customer would enjoy being able to open the window
without
| worrying about knocking off a "bug" or "stretching" the wire. In
addtional,
| he could open it as wide as he wants on a hot day and still enjoy full
| protection.
|
| There are a number of companies in the US (and Canada) that are involved
in
| fabricating and upgrading window security screens. You can check out one
of
| them here:
|
| http://www.securityscreens.com/
|
| Google "security screens" or "window security screens".
|
| Another option is to go with alarmed window barricades.
|
| http://www.micronsecurityproducts.com/micron/
|
| These units remove easily in the event of an emergency, but will also
| "fault" the zone (if your system's disarmed), or sound the siren if it's
| armed.
|
|
| > It's a slider type windows in this home (condo), Each pane is about
35x20.
| > closed loop zone, There are only 9 windows in this unit. Steven
in
| > message | >>
| >> | >>> Is one better recomended that the other? Sentrol 5150 vs Ademco
ASC-SS1
| >>> Thank you Steven
| >>
| >>
| >> Use the Sentrol if you have to. Care to tell us a little more about
the
| >> installation you're working on??
| >>
| >
| >
|
|
 
guys whats the best, lets put it this way, most secure, way to secure a
screen, without having the screen remeshed? This is for my own appt, I
have new screens but cant have them redone. I was thinking a contact on
each side, 4 of them?

Very small windows ...screens are 19x34 and they are over wood, these
are from 55 years ago .. they open in, im adding in modern screens, but
the landlord already ordered normal screens. The screens go on the
wooden frame, not the window itself. The old screens were built into
the windows ..

Thanks
Rory
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
putting contacts on four sides isn't gonna help if they cut the screen...
why not make a second inner alarm screen if you don't wanna mess with the
landlord's


| guys whats the best, lets put it this way, most secure, way to secure a
| screen, without having the screen remeshed? This is for my own appt, I
| have new screens but cant have them redone. I was thinking a contact on
| each side, 4 of them?
|
| Very small windows ...screens are 19x34 and they are over wood, these
| are from 55 years ago .. they open in, im adding in modern screens, but
| the landlord already ordered normal screens. The screens go on the
| wooden frame, not the window itself. The old screens were built into
| the windows ..
|
| Thanks
| Rory
|
|
 
that aint worth it, remember 19x34 .. small small small windows ..i
dont invision the crack heads around here cutting the screen .. :)))
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
lacing wire and the pullout connectors? yah i guess you could do that...adi
may still sell the connectors.

if it's not in an area that can be seen you may be able to rig up a really
thin two conductor...maybe skinny zip...solder mini connector plug to one
end..like stereo headphone plug run it across the window(s) at the reciever
end put a mini jack and the resistor and plug it in...at the other end
connect to your home run securely fasten...if the wire is cut you get alarm
if it pulls out of jack you get alarm if armed or trbl if disarmed.



| plus i cant afford to do the screen myself, any tips on oldschool syle
| like 2 wires or something across the outside of the screen? Like a
| cross ..?
|
|
 
J

Jim

Jan 1, 1970
0
i think my only vaiable way is beams :-(
anyone wanna sell me some, crash?

I have some now, but they are on the back part, the rear entrance, not
near my appt windows.

If the screens are made of wood, you can staple trap wire (which is 24
ga, solid, insulated) on to the inside of the screen. You staple the
wire back and forth a few times and up and down a few times. If you're
afraid that someone would be smart enough to short out the wire to gain
entry, you can decrease the chances of that by stapleing each leg of
the protective loop on the screen in odd and even pattern then use an
end of line resistor loop to detect a short. You add pull out plugs at
both the top and the bottom to act as a trap if someone tries to take
out the screen. If the screens are on the outside of the house, you'll
have to use some kind of weather proof plugs, otherwise moisture will
oxidize the connections. Or, if your not ever going to remove the
screens, or very seldom remove them, just run the wires inside the
house and add plugs or just splice there. If someone tries to pull out
the screen they'll break the 24 ga wire. Now either way, if someone
tries to cut through the screen, or remove the screen, they'll have to
break the trap wire to get into the house.
 
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