Connect with us

Sharp Microwave R-1471

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Paul, Oct 8, 2006.

Scroll to continue with content
  1. Paul

    Paul Guest

    Our Sharo R-1471 over-the-range microwave (about 10 years old) quit working.
    The interior light and fan stay on continuously, and there is no response to
    most of the front panel buttons. The Sharp web site had no indication that
    parts/manuals were available directly from them. Is it possible to get a
    service manual, or at least a schematic for this unit? How about parts
    availability? I took the control panel out and found no obvious damage.
    Tracing back from the 2 larger relays on the bottom edge of the board, it
    seems that Q27 is open. Marking on the part is "A223" Does that stand for
    2SA223, or is it a house number?

    Thanks,
    Paul
     
  2. Someone slam the door?
     
  3. Guest

    My first suspicion would be the interlock mechanism. You can check the
    interlock switches with a multimeter.

    Probably is 2SA223, the 2S is routinely left off.


    NT
     
  4. Paul

    Paul Guest

    It appears that both of you are correct. The clip holding the upper door
    switch is broken. I never would have guessed that an interlock switch would
    have caused the symptoms that I was having. Apparently this particular
    switch turns on the interior lamp and disables the touchpads when the door
    is open.

    Thanks for the help.
    Paul

    BTW, according to Tritronics, the full P/N for Q27 is VSKRA223M//-3.
     
  5. SAL

    SAL

    1
    0
    Nov 29, 2009
    I have the same Sharp model R-1471microwave and it had the same symptoms. It had been unplugged for a few years now because I have another microwave, and to replace the R-1471 with a similar model (1.0 cubic foot) would have cost $400+. For some reason, microwaves in this smaller size are expensive. While I can get a 1.5 cubic foot over-the-range microwave for under $200, I would have to do a little carpentry work on the cabinets and it would stick out 1.5+ inches further. I checked the switches as mentioned above and, sure enough, the top door switch was not attached very well so it would move when the door lever hit it. Apparently, the tab behind the switch that prevents it from moving had broken. The bracket has another position that it can be mounted (higher up and upside down) so I popped it in upside-down and just had to replace the grounding wire on the switch with a longer one so it would reach the grounding screw. Piece of cake once you know what the issue is :)

    Thanks!!!!
    SAL
     
Ask a Question
Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?
You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.
Electronics Point Logo
Continue to site
Quote of the day

-