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Secure Window

A

ABLE_1

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello all,

I have a customer that is about to replace 16 windows with vinyl replacement
windows as the link below shows.
http://www.certainteed.com/CertainT...ast/Prodindex/Replacement/BMIIProductpage.htm

The existing windows have both top and bottom sashes with contacts. They
would like to maintain the same security on the new windows.

This brings me to ask the question. Does anybody have any tricks or
suggestions for vinyl windows for both top and bottom sash with out voiding
the warrantee???

Thanks in advance.

Les
 
A

alarman

Jan 1, 1970
0
ABLE_1 said:
Hello all,

I have a customer that is about to replace 16 windows with vinyl
replacement windows as the link below shows.
http://www.certainteed.com/CertainT...ast/Prodindex/Replacement/BMIIProductpage.htm

The existing windows have both top and bottom sashes with contacts. They
would like to maintain the same security on the new windows.

This brings me to ask the question. Does anybody have any tricks or
suggestions for vinyl windows for both top and bottom sash with out
voiding the warrantee???

Alarm screens.
js
 
J

Jim

Jan 1, 1970
0
ABLE_1 said:
Hello all,

I have a customer that is about to replace 16 windows with vinyl replacement
windows as the link below shows.
http://www.certainteed.com/CertainT...ast/Prodindex/Replacement/BMIIProductpage.htm

The existing windows have both top and bottom sashes with contacts. They
would like to maintain the same security on the new windows.

This brings me to ask the question. Does anybody have any tricks or
suggestions for vinyl windows for both top and bottom sash with out voiding
the warrantee???

Thanks in advance.

Les


Any window manufacturer that I've ever contacted doesn't have any
problem
with adding contacts to a windows as long as the integrity of the
window is
maintained, and that usually means don't mess with the weather
stripping.

If you really want to be sure, call the manufacturer.
 
This brings me to ask the question. Does anybody have
any tricks or suggestions for vinyl windows for both top
and bottom sash with out voiding the warrantee???

One problem with vinyl windows is seating a recessed magnet. Most
vinyl windows have too narrow a space at the bottom of the sash.
Certainteed's "Devon" line is an exception. There's a hollow chamber
in the bottom rail deep enough to fit a "stubby" magnet.
Unfortunately, the upper rail's chamber is too short for a recessed
magnet. Even a stubby model probably won't fit.

Better yet, there's a recessed space deep enough to cement a "rare
earth" magnet in place without even drilling the sash. That approach
minimizes warranty concerns. The space is on both the upper and lower
rails.

Certainteed replacement windows come with vinyl frames which fit into
the pre-existing window opening. The frames have a hollow space which
is deep enough to fit the recessed magnetic switch. Sometimes the
switch can work loose if it's not seated in something thicker than the
vinyl frame. To prevent this, smooth a tiny dab of RTV (silicone
caulk) around the switch before seating it in the hole. This will also
prevent water seepage, though most such window frames have weep holes
to allow any water that does get in to run out.

Note that Certainteed's warranty does provide an out for them if they
believe your work has contributed to any damage. They state,
"CertainTeed shall have no liability under this warranty for: A.
Defects or failure caused by improper handling or storage or by
installation not in strict adherence with CertainTeed's written
instructions." That would certainly include damage caused by drilling
the sash since they make no mention of it in their installation
instructions.

Regards,
Robert L Bass
Badd Home Electronics
www.BassBurglarAlarms.com
 
A

ABLE_1

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for the input. These windows are the Bryn Mar II units. I doubt it
will make much difference but I will look into the possibilities of what you
have indicated.

Thanks.

Les
 
R

Robert L Bass

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for the input. These windows are the Bryn Mar II units. I doubt it will make much difference but I will look into the
possibilities of what you have indicated.

Thanks.

Les,

You're most welcome. Looking at the brochure on the Bryn Mr II, it appears you have enough room to fit a rare earth magnet on the
bottom. I can't tell for sure about the top rail though because the image isn't clear enough. If you send me your address I'll
mail you a couple of sample magnets. Try it out -- CAREFULLY -- and if both sashes will close without being forced you're in
business.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>
 
A

ABLE_1

Jan 1, 1970
0
Robert,

Thanks for the offer. I already have some of the rare earths. That is not
a problem. My challenge is that the customer is 55 miles away and need to
make one trip. I have to go there after the windows are installed minus the
trim and be loaded for all possibilities. My biggest fear is that the
contractor will rip the wires out and cause me major grief.

Thanks again,

Les
 
R

Robert L Bass

Jan 1, 1970
0
Robert,
That is not a problem. My challenge is that the
customer is 55 miles away and need to make
one trip. I have to go there after the windows
are installed minus the trim and be loaded for all
possibilities. My biggest fear is that the contractor
will rip the wires out and cause me major grief.
Thanks for the offer. I already have some of the
rare earths.

No problem. I suspect you'll be ok on this, Les. Given the round trip distance involved, I'd call Certainteed and get exact
dimensions. They might even fax you a schematic if you ask. Her'e's their number. 800-233-8990.

Damage from other tradesmen is always an issue. If the home already belongs to your customer, you're in a better position to deal
with it though. In future consider including in your agreement a statement that the customer is liable for any additional, labor,
materials, etc., required to complete the job should anyone not working for you damage your work. This works especially well if you
have the client agree to notify you when your work can be done -- that is, when he expects the framing and other rough-n work to be
completed but before the insuilation goes in. This puts the onus of choosing the right timing on the clint and since it's his
project that is a unreasonable burden.

I've prewired countless homes over the years and though the insulators can occasionally cause problems I've found that by doing my
work the day before they arrive I avoid a lot of cut wires. I got out of it six+ years ago when I sold the installing company. Now
I just do online sales to DIYers. Though I enjoyed it for many years, I don't miss it. Selling online and by phone is fun and it
gives me the freedom to do a lot of things with my family that I never could before.

BTW, the worst prewire I ever had to work on actually was a free job I did for my sister. She was building a new home and I
prewired her security system for her. It was a long drive from my home so I took a weekend off to prewire and test everything,
including installing the switches (I always preferred doing that during the prewire). After checking everything I left.

A few weeks later I came back to finish up and nothing worked. I pulled out one recessed contact after another and found every wire
had been cut and, worse, the service loops had been cut off. I had to retrofit the whole system. It turned out that her next door
neighbor was PO'd because the builder had sold the lot to my sister rather than him. He wanted to keep it vacant because the new
home would block his view! He apparently got into some trouble for vandalizing the property, taking construction materials or some
such thing. I had known he was a problem neighbor but it never occured to me how much of one. The weird thing is this was an
educated guy, en electrical engineer.

Anyway, best of luck on the project.

--

Regards,
Robert L Bass

=============================>
Bass Home Electronics
4883 Fallcrest Circle
Sarasota · Florida · 34233
http://www.bassburglaralarms.com
=============================>
 
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