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Schematic for the philips BT100 bluetooth

mrel

Jul 2, 2008
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Hello
Any one know where can get Schematic for Philips BT100 bluetooth speaker.
The charger port use micro usb port ,the micro usb port got pull of the pc board.
Need know where the positive and negative wire on the pc board to charge the the battery.
mrel
 

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dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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Look at the PCB traces going to the pads the micro USB port was soldered to. Compare to a micro USB socket pinout with VCC on one end and GND on the other. Trace them visually, confirm continuity (0 resistance) with a multimeter. Below, VCC = positive, GND = negative

569499056-533.jpg


If you can post a good, high resolution, 90' top-down picture of the PCB (and the other side if the traces go through vias to the other side), someone might be able to trace it if you can't.

I hate micro USB ports for this reason. Too fragile, give me a full sized socket on anything that has room for one.

There is something you can do about it, before the socket fails or after it's repaired. Coat the male plug with a "tiny" bit of petroleum based grease and plug it into the socket. Fortify the area around the USB socket with epoxy, taking care not to get any in an area that would interfere with it seating back in the casing of the product.

Let the epoxy set, pull the plug and spray the grease off of it and the socket with electronics contact cleaner. You could just use silicone dielectric grease instead and leave it in the socket but if the socket goes unused and exposed to dust, the grease may catch that and be more difficult to clean out. Contact cleaner does not dissolve silicone grease.
 
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mrel

Jul 2, 2008
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The company glue usb port to the pc board went the usb port got pull off the pc board it pull the copper trace off the pc board,now no copper trace on the pc board.
Don't know which trace is positive and negative trace.
That why need a schematic to this bluetooth device.
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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Provide a good picture of the PCB and indicate whether the side of the mUSB socket with diagonal edges was facing up away from the board, or down against the board.

A schematic probably is not needed because it uses a standardized mUSB socket to charge, but with a good picture of the board, someone might also recognize the charging subcircuit. Besides, I don't see why Philips would release a schematic nor why any owner would have gone to the trouble of making one because they only cost $20 (US, Amazon price) which makes them a disposable class product.

You might try scouring Youtube to see if there are any BT100 repair or teardown videos.

One other option is abandon the built-in charging circuit and get a ~$1 charger board off ebay, with a mUSB socket already on it, and put that in, wired direct to the battery. This removes the need to find some other way to mount a replacement mUSB socket since you stated the pads are torn off the PCB, then you only need to make a metal frame to mount it to the speaker housing.
 
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mrel

Jul 2, 2008
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You mention $1 charger board off ebay, with a mUSB socket already on it, and put that in, wired direct to the battery.,can you give more information like how is it listed on ebay ,does board automatic stop charging the battery when battery is full?
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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You can search ebay for micro USB Li-Ion charger. Here is one example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-...Module-Charging-Board-Protection/123275109046

Since your USB (5.0V) input is higher than a single cell's voltage, you don't want one called a "boost" charger, and depending on what the battery mAh capacity is, pick a charge rate that is not too high, C/2 or at least less than C/1 would be better (for example 2000mAh battery divided by 2 would be 1.0Ah charge rate), and a rate not so high that your external AC/DC USB mains adapter cannot keep up. It would be easier to just tell you to use one that can be set to 0.5A as the example linked above can.
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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... and yes it stops charging when the battery is full. Ideally instead of the example ebay link I posted, I'd keep looking until I found one with mounting holes on the PCB, which would make it more straight forward to use standoffs to attach to an L-shaped bracket to screw or rivet to the speaker case.

You might be able to use epoxy instead of mounting holes, it's harder to speculate what is easiest without the unit in front of me, popped open, to see where it's going to be mounted. I am not suggesting trying to put one of those modules where the original micro USB socket was, as the existing PCB is in the way of doing that. You'll need a new hole for the new socket.
 

Audioguru

Sep 24, 2016
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The important specification details about the dangerous cheap charger are not shown:
1) It does not say it is certified to be safe. The manufacturer's name is unknown or is hidden.
2) It does not say the charging stops. Then it will over-charge and cause an explosion and fire.
3) It does not say if it refuses to charge or tries a low current charge for a battery cell that has been over-discharged. Then it will cause an explosion and fire.
4) It does not measure if a battery cell is overheating and 1A at 4.2V is 4.2W which is a lot of heating. Then it will cause an explosion and fire.

Good properly designed chargers specify all these important details and are safe to use.
 

mrel

Jul 2, 2008
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Dave9
I try send 4mb picture keep getting error occurred ,the picture was to show the broke pc board.
 

davenn

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Dave9
I try send 4mb picture keep getting error occurred ,the picture was to show the broke pc board.


4 meg pic is huge and way too big for any forum
Either do as @dave9 said or resize the image to no bigger than 800x600 and compress it's kb size to less than 100kb
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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800x resolution may be so low that it won't even show separate PCB traces.

Your best bet is save it as lossless PNG (unless your camera already JPEG'd it then leave it as is) then just link here to it on imgur or elsewhere.
 

mrel

Jul 2, 2008
115
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Messages
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You can search ebay for micro USB Li-Ion charger. Here is one example:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-...Module-Charging-Board-Protection/123275109046

Since your USB (5.0V) input is higher than a single cell's voltage, you don't want one called a "boost" charger, and depending on what the battery mAh capacity is, pick a charge rate that is not too high, C/2 or at least less than C/1 would be better (for example 2000mAh battery divided by 2 would be 1.0Ah charge rate), and a rate not so high that your external AC/DC USB mains adapter cannot keep up. It would be easier to just tell you to use one that can be set to 0.5A as the example linked above can.
 

mrel

Jul 2, 2008
115
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
115
Dave9
Purchase usb board,don,t know if this is one you recommend see picture.
Also include picture of the speaker notice red and black wires the two wire connect red to positive and black negative wire direct to battery.
The usb power board show four holes two out positive and two out negative.
Do you know which hole the wire should be connected to?
mrelIMG_20190823_231055.jpg IMG_20190823_233204.jpg IMG_20190823_233204.jpg
 

dave9

Mar 5, 2017
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Ask the seller what the Out + and Out - pads do, they weren't on the listing and your picture is too blurry and dark to see if they just connect to the B+ and B - or have a different function, or you could use a multimeter or look at the traces to see if they connect to each other.

Without that info I'd just connect B+ to battery positive/red and B - to battery negative/black, but then I would carefully monitor the voltage during the first charging test. I'd log voltage vs time and make sure it never goes above 4.2V.

The Out + and Out - are only used if your battery does not have a protection circuit on it. You will have to examine your battery to determine this or provide a (better, than what you have so far lol) picture of the battery. If it does not have a battery protection circuit on it then wire the load to the Out + and Out - instead of direct from the battery.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir mrel . . . . .

Initially . . . . .
re . . . . . Ask the seller what the Out + and Out - pads do

They are being the respective polarity connections that go to the Li Ion cell being charged.

The identical ( jumpered together ) OUT + and B+ connections, uses the OUT + connection to go to the Li Ion cell, while the B+ marked connection goes to your powered circuit / equipments + supply line.

Then the OUT- pad goes to the Li Ions other terminal.
Then that just leaves the B- terminal to connect to the - of the circuit / equipment being powered.

BUT that B- connection is made thru a pair of switched FETS so that power connection of battery / cell to equipment can be opened if
the cell is drained down to a damaging levels threshold.


mrel . . . .

See if this supplied info will fulfill your required project needs:

Top pic is the meager " plastic baggy" *** LI Ion cell used in the BT-100
Mid pic are the multiple intra connections relevant to the BT-100

***
These are the types, and its larger cased variants that pooch out and leak if over abused on charging or heavy discharges.
The leakage you can detect, by it being a sweet antifreeze type of smell, if sniffing out a cell..

Inversely . . . . the venerable 1860 metal cased build is the real workhorse and safer unit.

The Bottom pic is letting you see the 3 principal components utilized in the charger board.

There is the Top Power . . . .Tire Pressure 4056

The DrunkWhile01intoxicated

And the final Dual N chan mosfet switch . . . . FS8205A


FUNCTIONS . . . . .

The TP4056 is being a smart Li Ion cell charger in a chip

The DW01 is being the voltage sensing and battery protection I.C.

The 8205A is being a single cased pair of FETS used as a power switch to make a disconnect of the negative voltage supply buss, at a set cutoff threshold, when battery usage drains down to . . ~ < < < 3 VDC.



SOOOOOOOOO . . . . . if you run your new charger to the lithium Ion cell which is connected to the two pin plug of the BT-100 with the red and black wires,that should get power to charging the cell and the cell is then feeding into the unit to operate the system.

NOW one clarification . . . .on your unit . . . your internal charger electronics should still be good and functional since your PROBLEM was being able to get + 5VDC power into the unit by a boogered up mini USB connector.

Observe the new charger board and you will see the top left corner is the +5VDC power that you put into the unit.
Additionally the bottom left corner is that power inputs negative rail. That gets +5 VDC in from a USB connection .

The 4056 circuitry then does its internal magic and gives you the proper 3.8 ----- > 4.2 VDC to charge your single connected Li IIon cell.
That processed charger voltage is outputted at the top right corner B+ connector at a jumpered together option of two identical connections .
The dual connection intention, is for one + to connect to your cell and the OTHER + to go to the equipment being powered ( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted RED wire at the top.

Now here is where the difference is being, and that is the bottom option between the two terminals there.
For those bottom two SEPARATE connections , the very bottom connection would go to the megative terminal of the Li Ion cell.
The OTHER terminal, above would go to the negative connection the equipment being powered.( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted BLACK wire at the bottom.

Now, if EXTERNAL power input is being used on the unit, it should run continually.

However, if you are external power disconnected and using that charged battery for power, that class D audio amp and WI-FI modules consumption, should run about 2-3 hrs on a full charge.

What we are NOW dependent upon, is the units existing internal charger detecting the low battery charge level and disconnecting the BT-100 electronics from the battery.

Look back to the new charger and see that other optional wire / terminal would then normally go to the loading circuitry ( the BT-100's ) ground return .
BUT without a schematic, we can't find that connection point on the BT-100 to connect it so that the 8205's switched FETS then disconnect / drop the equipments - ground connection. That saves further cell discharge on down into the never-never level.
We're banking on the internal charger circuitry doing that disconnect function.

RELEVANT Da-Da SHEETS FOR REFERENCE. . . .

TP4056
https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdf
DW01
https://www.ic-fortune.com/upload/Download/DW01-G-DS-10_EN.pdf
( FLEE ! fortune coorie, with every purchee ! )

FS 8205A
https://www.maritex.com.pl/product/attachment/91261/8205A.pdf



NEW PHOTO REFERENCING:

xc5J5r5.jpg
























Thaaaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . .

Forever is a long-long time, but its now not being quite as long as it was yesterday.




 
Last edited:

mrel

Jul 2, 2008
115
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
115
Sir mrel . . . . .

Initially . . . . .
re . . . . . Ask the seller what the Out + and Out - pads do

They are being the respective polarity connections that go to the Li Ion cell being charged.

The identical ( jumpered together ) OUT + and B+ connections, uses the OUT + connection to go to the Li Ion cell, while the B+ marked connection goes to your powered circuit / equipments + supply line.

Then the OUT- pad goes to the Li Ions other terminal.
Then that just leaves the B- terminal to connect to the - of the circuit / equipment being powered.

BUT that B- connection is made thru a pair of switched FETS so that power connection of battery / cell to equipment can be opened if
the cell is drained down to a damaging levels threshold.


mrel . . . .

See if this supplied info will fulfill your required project needs:

Top pic is the meager " plastic baggy" *** LI Ion cell used in the BT-100
Mid pic are the multiple intra connections relevant to the BT-100

***
These are the types, and its larger cased variants that pooch out and leak if over abused on charging or heavy discharges.
The leakage you can detect, by it being a sweet antifreeze type of smell, if sniffing out a cell..

Inversely . . . . the venerable 1860 metal cased build is the real workhorse and safer unit.

The Bottom pic is letting you see the 3 principal components utilized in the charger board.

There is the Top Power . . . .Tire Pressure 4056

The DrunkWhile01intoxicated

And the final Dual N chan mosfet switch . . . . FS8205A


FUNCTIONS . . . . .

The TP4056 is being a smart Li Ion cell charger in a chip

The DW01 is being the voltage sensing and battery protection I.C.

The 8205A is being a single cased pair of FETS used as a power switch to make a disconnect of the negative voltage supply buss, at a set cutoff threshold, when battery usage drains down to . . ~ < < < 3 VDC.



SOOOOOOOOO . . . . . if you run your new charger to the lithium Ion cell which is connected to the two pin plug of the BT-100 with the red and black wires,that should get power to charging the cell and the cell is then feeding into the unit to operate the system.

NOW one clarification . . . .on your unit . . . your internal charger electronics should still be good and functional since your PROBLEM was being able to get + 5VDC power into the unit by a boogered up mini USB connector.

Observe the new charger board and you will see the top left corner is the +5VDC power that you put into the unit.
Additionally the bottom left corner is that power inputs negative rail. That gets +5 VDC in from a USB connection .

The 4056 circuitry then does its internal magic and gives you the proper 3.8 ----- > 4.2 VDC to charge your single connected Li IIon cell.
That processed charger voltage is outputted at the top right corner B+ connector at a jumpered together option of two identical connections .
The dual connection intention, is for one + to connect to your cell and the OTHER + to go to the equipment being powered ( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted RED wire at the top.

Now here is where the difference is being, and that is the bottom option between the two terminals there.
For those bottom two SEPARATE connections , the very bottom connection would go to the megative terminal of the Li Ion cell.
The OTHER terminal, above would go to the negative connection the equipment being powered.( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted BLACK wire at the bottom.

Now, if EXTERNAL power input is being used on the unit, it should run continually.

However, if you are external power disconnected and using that charged battery for power, that class D audio amp and WI-FI modules consumption, should run about 2-3 hrs on a full charge.

What we are NOW dependent upon, is the units existing internal charger detecting the low battery charge level and disconnecting the BT-100 electronics from the battery.

Look back to the new charger and see that other optional wire / terminal would then normally go to the loading circuitry ( the BT-100's ) ground return .
BUT without a schematic, we can't find that connection point on the BT-100 to connect it so that the 8205's switched FETS then disconnect / drop the equipments - ground connection. That saves further cell discharge on down into the never-never level.
We're banking on the internal charger circuitry doing that disconnect function.

RELEVANT Da-Da SHEETS FOR REFERENCE. . . .

TP4056
https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdf
DW01
https://www.ic-fortune.com/upload/Download/DW01-G-DS-10_EN.pdf
( FLEE ! fortune coorie, with every purchee ! )

FS 8205A
https://www.maritex.com.pl/product/attachment/91261/8205A.pdf



NEW PHOTO REFERENCING:

xc5J5r5.jpg














To 73's de Edd
The picture you post of a philip speaker is not same as the BT100w speaker , parts inside the BT100w speaker is complete different from your picture.
As for the pictures i post to forum i look at the picture on my computer look clear to me,i don't know what else can do to the pictures to make any clear.
As for the speaker BT100w got red (positive) wire soldered directly to battery pack positive side of the battery pack and black wire (negative) soldered directly to negative side of the battery pack.
I measuring the voltage on the TP 4056 charge board where say out + and out- the voltage output is same as input voltage(5.17 volts).
The the pad on the board that has the ( B+,B -) voltage reading 4.1 volts is this where should connect battery pack wire from the speaker to the tp4056 charge board?
mrel









Thaaaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . .

Forever is a long-long time, but its now not being quite as long as it was yesterday.



Sir mrel . . . . .

Initially . . . . .
re . . . . . Ask the seller what the Out + and Out - pads do

They are being the respective polarity connections that go to the Li Ion cell being charged.

The identical ( jumpered together ) OUT + and B+ connections, uses the OUT + connection to go to the Li Ion cell, while the B+ marked connection goes to your powered circuit / equipments + supply line.

Then the OUT- pad goes to the Li Ions other terminal.
Then that just leaves the B- terminal to connect to the - of the circuit / equipment being powered.

BUT that B- connection is made thru a pair of switched FETS so that power connection of battery / cell to equipment can be opened if
the cell is drained down to a damaging levels threshold.


mrel . . . .

See if this supplied info will fulfill your required project needs:

Top pic is the meager " plastic baggy" *** LI Ion cell used in the BT-100
Mid pic are the multiple intra connections relevant to the BT-100

***
These are the types, and its larger cased variants that pooch out and leak if over abused on charging or heavy discharges.
The leakage you can detect, by it being a sweet antifreeze type of smell, if sniffing out a cell..

Inversely . . . . the venerable 1860 metal cased build is the real workhorse and safer unit.

The Bottom pic is letting you see the 3 principal components utilized in the charger board.

There is the Top Power . . . .Tire Pressure 4056

The DrunkWhile01intoxicated

And the final Dual N chan mosfet switch . . . . FS8205A


FUNCTIONS . . . . .

The TP4056 is being a smart Li Ion cell charger in a chip

The DW01 is being the voltage sensing and battery protection I.C.

The 8205A is being a single cased pair of FETS used as a power switch to make a disconnect of the negative voltage supply buss, at a set cutoff threshold, when battery usage drains down to . . ~ < < < 3 VDC.



SOOOOOOOOO . . . . . if you run your new charger to the lithium Ion cell which is connected to the two pin plug of the BT-100 with the red and black wires,that should get power to charging the cell and the cell is then feeding into the unit to operate the system.

NOW one clarification . . . .on your unit . . . your internal charger electronics should still be good and functional since your PROBLEM was being able to get + 5VDC power into the unit by a boogered up mini USB connector.

Observe the new charger board and you will see the top left corner is the +5VDC power that you put into the unit.
Additionally the bottom left corner is that power inputs negative rail. That gets +5 VDC in from a USB connection .

The 4056 circuitry then does its internal magic and gives you the proper 3.8 ----- > 4.2 VDC to charge your single connected Li IIon cell.
That processed charger voltage is outputted at the top right corner B+ connector at a jumpered together option of two identical connections .
The dual connection intention, is for one + to connect to your cell and the OTHER + to go to the equipment being powered ( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted RED wire at the top.

Now here is where the difference is being, and that is the bottom option between the two terminals there.
For those bottom two SEPARATE connections , the very bottom connection would go to the megative terminal of the Li Ion cell.
The OTHER terminal, above would go to the negative connection the equipment being powered.( not your situation).
I have drawn in the easily interpreted BLACK wire at the bottom.

Now, if EXTERNAL power input is being used on the unit, it should run continually.

However, if you are external power disconnected and using that charged battery for power, that class D audio amp and WI-FI modules consumption, should run about 2-3 hrs on a full charge.

What we are NOW dependent upon, is the units existing internal charger detecting the low battery charge level and disconnecting the BT-100 electronics from the battery.

Look back to the new charger and see that other optional wire / terminal would then normally go to the loading circuitry ( the BT-100's ) ground return .
BUT without a schematic, we can't find that connection point on the BT-100 to connect it so that the 8205's switched FETS then disconnect / drop the equipments - ground connection. That saves further cell discharge on down into the never-never level.
We're banking on the internal charger circuitry doing that disconnect function.

RELEVANT Da-Da SHEETS FOR REFERENCE. . . .

TP4056
https://dlnmh9ip6v2uc.cloudfront.net/datasheets/Prototyping/TP4056.pdf
DW01
https://www.ic-fortune.com/upload/Download/DW01-G-DS-10_EN.pdf
( FLEE ! fortune coorie, with every purchee ! )

FS 8205A
https://www.maritex.com.pl/product/attachment/91261/8205A.pdf



NEW PHOTO REFERENCING:

xc5J5r5.jpg
























Thaaaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . .

Forever is a long-long time, but its now not being quite as long as it was yesterday.



 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,613
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,613
Sir mrel . . . . .

The the pad on the board that has the ( B+,B -) voltage reading 4.1 volts is this where should connect battery pack wire from the speaker to the tp4056 charge board?

No

The Li Ion cell is re connected to the plug that goes into the BT-100, as it was originally.
Look at the bottom drawing of the charger board where I show the two RED and BLACK wires connected to the boards RIGHT top and RIGHT bottom corners connections marked OUT+ and OUT- .... confirm that they also read that same charging voltage of ~4.1 VDC, they are the ones that go over to also connect to the RED and BLACK wires of the Li ion cell.

Sorry I short changed you on the innards photo, as that is only the BT-50 b little brother, but our info should be the same on what we are working with.
 
Last edited:
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