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Rolling your own soldering tip

S

Smitty Two

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a perceived need to make my own custom soldering iron tip for a
moderately high volume rework job. Are these typically made of copper
and then plated with something? Does anyone who's done this have any
tips (no pun intended) for me?
 
S

Smitty Two

Jan 1, 1970
0
Wild_Bill said:
My guess is that your time would be better spent by adapting a part that's
already available, if possible.
Another option might be hot air, depending upon what the specific task is.

Caswell and other companies have lots of products for small-scale plating
jobs, but exposure to soldering temperatures and fluxes aren't primarily
intended, as many plating materials are for corrosion resistance or
appearance.

Solid copper is fairly easily worked (cut, bend, trim) but has a fairly
short life when used at higher temps for soldering. The copper is actually
dissolved/absorbed into ordinary solder alloys, and fluxes further erode it.
Plating with a nickel alloy, which is the final plating on many
commercially-made tips, will essentially eliminate the dissolving, and
protect the copper from fluxes, while providing a surface that's easily
tinned.

Copper is easily brazed (silver soldered) to other parts to fabricate more
complex assemblies. The braze temp far exceeds any working temps needed for
soldering.

Some leaded steel alloys are suitable for soldering tips, but require fairly
vigorous cleaning/removal of fluxes, and care must be taken to avoid
overheating or the steel won't tin properly.

Many of the presently made soldering and desoldering tips are a copper core
which is iron coated, then plated with copper and then a nickel alloy.

The problem you face with making your own custom tips is tip life, and the
project R&D could be lengthy if yoy try to determine which type of tip
proves to be the most reliable.
You will most likely be faced with fabricating a quantity of "anything that
works", as the reliability of them will likely be shorter than
commercially-made soldering tips.

Thanks for the deets. The actual fabrication of the tip will be
relatively painless since we have a machine shop in-house. And, I think
the volume of work to be done is such that a reasonably well-made tip
will last the length of the task. If not, I'd think it wouldn't require
more than 3 copies.

Do you see any significant advantage to copper--iron--copper--nickel
over just copper--nickel? Do you know how thick the nickel plating
should be?
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Dave Plowman (News) said:
Yes - I noticed that. Wonder if it will be easier to remove - I destroyed
an element once removing the old type. (Through carelessness, it must be
said)


Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.

--
*Rehab is for quitters.

Dave Plowman [email protected] London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Antex? do they still use mains powered heaters?
I gave up with them when CMOS LSI first came in and mains leakage
current/voltage destroyed a couple of expensive ICs while I was soldering
them. There I was using proper grounded disipative wrist strap and all.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Dave Plowman (News) said:
They do a variety of mains and low voltage.


That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage. And the
tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using was
floating well above ground?

--
*To be intoxicated is to feel sophisticated, but not be able to say it.

Dave Plowman [email protected] London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

It was a long time ago, I've always used 24V Weller Magnastat since.
ISTR the Antex tip fitted over a ceramic shaft containing the mains carrying
heater. No observable leakage when cold but at operating temperature it
leaked like a sieve. One dramatic confiemation test of it, in a totally dark
room, you could sometimes see a discharge arc to a grounded metal plate held
very close to the tip.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa Daily said:
I remember owning a mains CN15 that had a pink ceramic element shaft, and
hence a fully floating tip, that was specifically sold as being leakage
free. And Dave, I reckon you must have experienced the Antex unplated bits -
I'm not that old ! (although I probably wasn't much more than a kid when I
owned my first Antex). In fact thinking about it, the mains fixed temp one
that I keep just for very fine work, has a needle tip that I did not fit all
that long ago, which is unplated copper.

We used to use Savbit solder way back, when I was an apprentice. We used
Adcola irons in that workshop (about two points to the left of heated pokers
...!) and they had solid copper or copper alloy tips. As I recall, Savbit
had a small amount of copper as part of the basic tin-lead alloy, and was
very good at preserving tips. However, I have not used that stuff for
years - if it even still exists. The leaded solder that I use, and have done
for a very long time now, is a Multicomp product. Perhaps with all of this
lead free crap that we have to put up with now, the tip manufacturers have
done subtle things with the plating to try to make it more compatible with
the dreadful stuff and its aggressive flux cores, and my leaded solder no
longer suits. If you recall, we had a discussion about tip life a few months
back. I have stopped using my trusty old Weller Magnastat station, purely
because the tips were not lasting five minutes on a 14 hour per day iron,
and they were getting pretty expensive. I used to keep my Pace vacuum
desolder station powered all the time as well, but same story. With tips at
over seven quid a throw now, it gets turned off between jobs that need it
...

Arfa

The irony was that iron was bought precisely for low leakage and soldering
these then new-fangled LSI lumps. Presumably tin-oxide or lead contimination
of the ceramic.

About the same time I got talking to someone who repaired/reconditioned and
re-sold white goods. Apparently many of the electric cooker heater elements
on old cookers progressively got more and more leaky so commonly failing
insulation test, even when cold. But I've not heard of that since, maybe
just one make or a bygone era.
I think there was a recent sub-thread here about some valve/tube glass going
conductive when heated.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa Daily said:
Yes, indeed there was. I was involved in that one. I didn't realise before
that discussion, that there was so many different types of glass, or that
any could become conductive when heated. Always lots to learn ...

Arfa

It shouldn't be too surprising. There is always a quoted caveat with the use
of vitreous (ie glass coated ) resistors - don't position so they can touch
chassis as they can go conductive at high, but still in-service, temp. I
can't believe the green or grey colouration is added specifically to make
the glass conductive.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
N_Cook said:
It shouldn't be too surprising. There is always a quoted caveat with the use
of vitreous (ie glass coated ) resistors - don't position so they can touch
chassis as they can go conductive at high, but still in-service, temp. I
can't believe the green or grey colouration is added specifically to make
the glass conductive.

I cannot find anything out there on the mechanism.
So my theory.
For vitreous resistors based on metal oxide, rather than wire-wound.,
overlain with glass. With continued/repeated use at very elevated
temperatures perhaps MO ions can migrate outwards through the glass.
 
C

Clint Sharp

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Dave Plowman (News)" said:
Nice to see another Antex fan. Still my favourite iron. Bought my first
one near 50 years ago - a delight after my Henley Solon.
Oh I don't know, I quite liked my Henley. I *much* prefer my Weller W60D
to the various Antex irons I have.
 
C

Clint Sharp

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Dave Plowman (News)" said:
That's strange since they made a point about their low leakage.
Latterly, they made the point because it needed making
And the
tip is earthed on a mains one. Perhaps the earth you were using was
floating well above ground?
They used to make ceramic elements designed for CMOS work because of the
leakage from their elements.
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
WW said:
Bob... I have been coating mine with silver solder for many years. They last
a LONG time. WW


How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the next
loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free
 
N

N_Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
How can a "coat" of silver solder work? it will admix/dilute with the next
loading of SnPb solder let alone Pb-Free
onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

The term "silver solder" has two meanings: Traditionally, and what Bob
means, it is a high temperature (450 deg C) alloy used with a
blowtorch for brazing. But it has recently been introduced for a low-
temperature lead solder replacement, causing frequent confusion.

Chris (whose first soldering iron was a Remploy. It may still be
around somewhere.)


But 450 deg C is not that much higher than electronics soldering iron
temperatures of 370 to 420 deg C, I take it that is enough margin under
brazing rod type silver solder, in practise.
 
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