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Roland XP60 no sound

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Repair' started by bakuryu88, Jul 2, 2017.

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  1. bakuryu88

    bakuryu88

    5
    0
    Jul 2, 2017
    I just bought a second hand Roland XP60 from a foreigner band member a day before he back to his country.

    It's working great until the next day when I turn it on ,totally no sound and there is only hissing noise come out from my keyboard amp. The keyboard amp is totally in good condition.

    And there is no one repair Roland in my city . I might need to repair it by myself .
     
  2. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

    4,275
    1,147
    Jun 25, 2010
    Checked the lead from the keyboard to the amp?

    What about the settings on the keyboard - daft as it seems, is there a separate volume control you need to 'turn up'?
     
  3. Alec_t

    Alec_t

    2,935
    799
    Jul 7, 2015
    Is the keyboard power supply correctly rated for your country?
     
  4. bakuryu88

    bakuryu88

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    Jul 2, 2017
    I've checked everything turned on .it will on have sound on pure luck .
     
  5. bakuryu88

    bakuryu88

    5
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    Jul 2, 2017
    I'm living in Malaysia whereby the voltage here is 230-240volt. The transformer is 230volt output.
    There is parts that quite hot when turning on the keyboard even without sound. [​IMG] This is the transformer and the circled red is the parts that quite hot when turn on the power.
     
  6. bakuryu88

    bakuryu88

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    Jul 2, 2017
    IMG_4089.JPG IMG_4087.JPG
     
  7. kellys_eye

    kellys_eye

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    Jun 25, 2010
    'Quite hot' is a relative concept! Such parts are designed to get 'quite hot' which is why they're attached to metalwork - a heatsink. The only true test of those parts is to measure the voltages in and out of them.

    Does anything on the keyboard 'light up' or otherwise show that power is being applied?

    If not then you should check the internal power lines.

    According to your pictures, IC1 and IC2 are voltage regulators (-15V and +15V respectively) and IC3 is a 5V regulator (datasheets available online).
    I suspect IC1 and IC2 require a +/- 18V DC input which will be supplied from the transformer via a rectifier and smoothing capacitor. IC3 will have a separate DC input (9V perhaps) from another transformer winding and rectifier/smoothing components.
     
    73's de Edd likes this.
  8. martin de jong

    martin de jong

    11
    1
    Jun 19, 2017
    Did you remove the metal plate that clamps these regulators to the metal plate behind them?
    Without that metal plate they wont make good contact with the metal plate, which acts like a heatsink.
    I see two rectangular slits and part of a screw sticking through the heatsink, this seems part of the clamp, so perhaps you removed it yourself.
    You might try measuring the output voltage of the regulators, to see if one of them is shorted, which would explain why that area is hotter than normal, but please first put the clamp back, or the regulators might get damaged from overheating.
    Google for the partnumbers to find a datasheet for them, so you know where to measure the output voltage.
     
    73's de Edd likes this.
  9. bakuryu88

    bakuryu88

    5
    0
    Jul 2, 2017
    I removed the metal plate temporary only to take photo of the parts and already put it back perfectly.
    Going to send for repair due to cant see any leakage of electrolyte and already clean once with contact cleaner.
     
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