Kilo Echo . . . . . . . Victor Yankee . . .here . . . .
You can see that the left end of that tri- wound choke goes to a ground lug and the right ends "stub" just appears to have experienced a metal fatigue break.
Ohm from the chokes very left terminal to the wire "stub" to see if you have continuity of the series winding
If so, then scrape the wires clean of oxide and tin both the long wire length and the short stub, and then do a wrap around of the long wire to the stub and do a final solder reflow.
If the wire from the smallest coil layer over to the stub is broken, I just get its end sticking up in the air and use copious amounts of rosin flux and solder on the tip of my WELL TINNED iron until I finally get a tinned blob.
Then an additional solid wire is tinned and wound around the "stub" and reflow soldered down.
Now, the other end of the wire is fashioned into a very small teardrop loop and tinned.
Then the tinned Litz wire end is inserted into the teardrop and reflow soldered.
With all continuity tests then passed, possibly add a drop of service cement to additionally mechanically anchor the repair area to the coil form.
What is the brand and model of this old piece of equipment, with what looks like a non inductive type of quasi dummy load up above ?
With the resistor cluster having its bottom end terminating to an old SO-239 RF connector, and this choke is then RF isolating, but DC grounding it .
73's de Edd