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Rewiring Garage Door Opener

Discussion in 'General Electronics Discussion' started by ApexDestroyer, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    I am working on a project with my son. We are harvesting the Intellicode receiver from an old Genie garage door opener. We plan to incorporate this into our smart home for easy access. This will be connected to a wireless garage keypad and when activated it will unlock the front door deadbolt and disarm the security system.

    Now for my question (seems straight forward but I keep second guessing myself):
    How much power do I put into this board?

    The wiring diagram says vcc but it is connected to a transformer. I am thinking that the vcc for the board is the same as the output of the transformer. I just want to be sure so we don't fry the board.

    Any help would be awesome!
    Attached are some pictures and the wiring diagram.
    36521R-S-1.jpg 20180213_111746.jpg 20180213_111704.jpg 20180213_101926.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    1,078
    Dec 18, 2013
    Hello
    I am assuming you are going to keep the voltage AC? You have an AC motor on the wiring diagram this will require AC to work as it is. Or are you not using the motor?
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  3. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    I am trashing everything except for the receiver board (as per the diagram - radio connector)
    Yes, I plan to connect to AC.

    I am basically using the board to trigger a momentary relay that is connected to a wifi module which is connected to my home automation.
     
  4. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    The RX is the green PCB?
     
  5. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    That is correct.
    The PCB has an antenna and a wire harness with 3 connectors: VCC(purple), GRND(green), and the middle one is a "trip"(black)
     
  6. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    As far as you have checked, does the wiring of the Transformer and PCB match the wiring diagram?
     
  7. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    Yes. The wiring matches and even the colors match.
    The diagram just doesn't show any numbers as far as volts or amps.
     
  8. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    It also doesn't look like the transformer powers the RX PCB (Vcc). Orange and Grey, where do they actually go? Because I would be looking for some kind of rectification circuit to convert AC-DC. It's possible it is done of the RX PCB but I couldn't make out any of the component values. Any chance of a nice close up of the section around the connector of the RX PCB including the components close to it?

    Thanks
    Adam
     
  9. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    20180213_101926.jpg 20180213_111704.jpg 20180213_111746.jpg 20180213_124535.jpg 20180213_124540.jpg 20180213_124549.jpg 20180213_124605.jpg 20180213_124609.jpg 20180213_124622.jpg
     
  10. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    20180213_124638.jpg 20180213_124648.jpg
     
  11. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Great thanks. Having a second look at the RX PCB, it looks like a diode is hiding under the antenna wire. The voltage rating of the surface mount electrolytic is quite high, possibly indication it is the smoothing capacitor for the rectifier. Let me have a closer look.
     
  12. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    Here is my actual board

    20180213_130800.jpg 20180213_130807.jpg
     
  13. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Ok not convinced the RX board has it's own rectifier because if you look at the other PCB there are 4 diode and a large capacitor next to each other in an arrangement which could indicate a bridge rectifier. That then means the RX PCB being fed by this and possible regulated down by IC1. Can you tell me the name of the IC next to the large capacitor near the connector.
     
  14. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Do you have a digital multi-meter?
     
  15. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

    5,164
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    Dec 18, 2013
  16. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    Yes I do. At home. I'm at work 20180213_131343.jpg 20180213_131346.jpg 20180213_131354.jpg
     
  17. Arouse1973

    Arouse1973 Adam

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    Dec 18, 2013
    Ok so I am signing off in a moment and if you could do this for me just in-case any of the other guys come on to help you later.

    1) Have a look and see if you can trace where the purple wire gets its power from the other PCB.
    2) When possible measure the voltage across the green and purple wires with everything power up. I hope I don't have to remind you how dangerous high voltages can be for you and everyone else around you.

    Possible actions

    1) Use an AC power adaptor of the correct voltage and current rating and plug this into the RX PCB. This is only to be done if it is proven that the voltage entering the power plug of the RX is AC. I don't think it is!

    2) Use a DC power adaptor of the correct voltage and current rating and plug this into the power socket of the RX PCB. This can only be done when a correct voltage measurement has been carried out.

    Thanks and good luck.
    Adam
     
  18. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    @Arouse1973 Thanks for all of your help!
    I'll test it out and post the results.
     
    Arouse1973 likes this.
  19. 73's de Edd

    73's de Edd

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    Aug 21, 2015
    Sir ApexDestroyer . . . . .

    Re:

    GENIE Model IS550/A

    OBSERVATIONS . . .

    A "Smart House" would already have this feature being inherent. Sounds / seems like to me that you are randomly / piecemeal, cobbling together an ersatz "Smart House".

    Looking at the info on the Genie beam rail of this unit, it would have been of circa 1990's construction.
    It is NOT having that specified ACSR3 receiver in the unit, but in 2005 an upgrade of that receiver would have been supplied, and then in ~2013, yet another upgrade was being supplied.
    Your photo of the unit shown, looks akin to that latest most sophisticated unit, as well as the control electronics, and that drive motor also looks quite snazzy, to be an older '90's unit..

    The control electronics has its 20 VAC power transformer mounted near it. It supplies the electronics on that board and out feeds to your receiver board with its DC supply.
    Now for your query relevant to the voltage and current required for a stand alone application of the receiver board only.

    BUT FIRST . . . . . is this one of YOUR units that worked and you are familiar with . . .or is it an unknown a "curb find" that has you fully fantasamizing in your head, with accomplishing dreams of sugar plums and faeries ?

    If being yours, is it working ? so that you can see if the receiver is responding to the transmitter.
    Otherwise you will have to utilize a sizeable complex portion of the control board to reset and sync the codes, to get the receiver and transmitter handshaking again.

    SINCE this unit does use a roaming cryptologic code, with its eleventeen heptajillion combinations to assure that any Joe Blow can't also access your unit.
    EVEN if he's a high tech CROOK, using a code reader, since your unit would have already stepped up to the next random code, and he read the LAST sent code, which is now being useless.

    PLUS . . . you . . . would have this same problem and same possibility, if / WHEN your xmitter and receiver got out of code sync in the future.

    Now see the (Start 96 font typeset) COMPLEX OBSTACLES (End 96 font type) to overcome in such an attempted utilization ?


    I see by your last posted photos that you are NOT now using that STOCK photo of the most sophisticated receiver board last mentioned, but instead, the intermediate one mentioned is being shown .

    Finality . . . . better to use one of the WI- Fi encrypyted RF transmitter-receiver units from China.

    73's de Edd
    .....a GENIE owner . . . .
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
  20. ApexDestroyer

    ApexDestroyer

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    Feb 13, 2018
    Well.. I had planned on testing the AC or DC supplied to the PCB but i don't 100% trust my multimeter for AC. I typically just test DC, continuity, and Ω with it.
    It is a Fluke 8020B that is almost 35 years old that I inherited from my grandfather. It has held up extremely well but I don't know if I would trust my life with a device that is almost as old as me.
    So.. I placed an order on Amazon for a new one that should be delivered tomorrow.
    In the meantime, I figured that it must be DC and between 9-12V. I hooked up a 9V battery and it functions as intended. I'll post again when I have tested it out.

    20180214_084654.jpg
     
    Arouse1973 likes this.
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