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Repairing lifted solder pads

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Russ, Feb 18, 2009.

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  1. Russ

    Russ Guest

    I have wanted to repair some lifted solder pads at times but the kits
    that I have found sell for hundreds of dollars. I just want the glue
    part and a sheet of copper. Does anyone know what kind of glue that
    can be used to replace a solder pad? I think I can find a thin sheet
    of copper but I am not sure of the glue that will hold up to the
    heat. Any ideas for the financially challenged?
    Thanks
    Russ
     
  2. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest


    Broken pcb traces and pads, bridging pcb holes that are too small for the
    component leg going throuh, so solder cracks, etc
    Eventually found a hobby shop with what I was after
    2 copper and 2 brass 80 mesh 5 x 6 inch sheets, bit finer than I was after
    but finer is better than coarser.
    Amaco of Indianapolis , Wireform Metal Mesh and Wiremesh woven Fabric.
    Presumably bigger sheets of it are used by the mind control nutters.
    A 2 hole paper punch makes neat 5mm pads and a needle to make a pilot hole.

    If lifted pads from use of a "proper" desolder tool, try a hot air gun ( No
    flaming please) try it first, explained on the tips files off below
     
  3. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    I also used salvaged pads/traces from scrap PCBs,and used eyelets to hold
    down the pads.you can cut off a worn hex key,chuck it in a drill,and grind
    down the end to a cone for cinching the eyelets.Eyelet kits I've used had
    two rods with conical tips,one fit into a metal block for holding it erect
    to support the backside of the eyelet while you tapped down the topside of
    the eyelet with the other tool.
    Never found any useful glue that would hold up under soldering,though.
     
  4. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest


    Is that set small conical ended hex rod in a drill to sort of grind a
    stopped hole in the pcb . Then press fit an eyelet down into this enlarged ,
    cone bottomed hole as in friction fit cinching process?
     
  5. Jim Yanik

    Jim Yanik Guest

    no the conical rod/hex key is a tool to flare out the eyelet.
    The drill part is to make a conical end on the hex key rod.
    I chose the hex key because it's tool steel and was available,you could use
    an old drill bit.

    I use a drill bit to drill holes in PCBs.
     
  6. Russ

    Russ Guest

    Thanks everyone, a few more thoughts.

    I sometimes can't use a a wire type repair and really need to have
    that pad back so that it is anchored to the board for strength. I have
    tried super glue but it didn't hold. I went to an auto store and found
    the best High temp two part glue they had but it didn't work. I think
    the way they repair these things is to use thin copper sheet with a
    two part heat activated epoxy. Any ideas or links to the glue they
    use? I am thinking Loctite might make something like this so I will
    call them asap.
    Thanks again
    Russ

    N_Cook, I am not sure about the "Amaco of Indianapolis" Is this where
    you buy the thin copper? Is it a arts and crafts store?
     
  7. N_Cook

    N_Cook Guest


    that was the product name , otherwise bought at
    http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk

    Anyone aware of a punch mechanism , smaller than the usual 5mm desk paper
    punches ? Leather punch pliers have to be really sharp to cut this copper
    mesh as its not a punch through operation.
     
  8. bz

    bz Guest

    You can buy rolls of copper that has an adhesive on one side.

    http://tapeinfo.com/TapeInfo/Datasheets/Permacel/673/P391.aspx


    and sheets such as
    http://webtronics.stores.yahoo.net/cf-3.html

    and

    http://tapeinfo.com/TapeInfo/Datasheets/Permacel/673/P391.aspx




    --
    bz 73 de N5BZ k

    please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
    infinite set.

    remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap
     
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