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First, we can't see the images you have posted. Please don't link important images from other sites, as the site webmaster/administrator may disallow remote access or remove resources that would greatly inhibit the ability for readers to understand the problem.
So, without knowing exactly how it broke, or it it damaged anything near-by, I can tell you that yes. You can repair the power socket in a DSi XL. You may need to find a replacement part from something like console parts or any other source that carries the part.
The tricky part will be the actual replacement process. You need to unsolder the old socket, and put the new one in.
If you are lacking the skills you can create a mess that will greatly complicate this process.
Get your hands on a soldering iron, solder wick (Or solder pump/sucker), and some solder. Additionally, flux will help and is recommended, but the job can be done without.
The most important thing to do if you doubt your skills, is to practice first! (*Note, that you may need to use side-cutters to cut away parts of the broken socket... as it will have multiple connections to the board... If it is cut into pieces you can remove each piece at a time rather than trying to balance and manage multiple solder connections at the same time.)
Re-attachment will be the easier part.
So, without knowing exactly how it broke, or it it damaged anything near-by, I can tell you that yes. You can repair the power socket in a DSi XL. You may need to find a replacement part from something like console parts or any other source that carries the part.
The tricky part will be the actual replacement process. You need to unsolder the old socket, and put the new one in.
If you are lacking the skills you can create a mess that will greatly complicate this process.
Get your hands on a soldering iron, solder wick (Or solder pump/sucker), and some solder. Additionally, flux will help and is recommended, but the job can be done without.
The most important thing to do if you doubt your skills, is to practice first! (*Note, that you may need to use side-cutters to cut away parts of the broken socket... as it will have multiple connections to the board... If it is cut into pieces you can remove each piece at a time rather than trying to balance and manage multiple solder connections at the same time.)
Re-attachment will be the easier part.
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- Nov 28, 2011
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It looks like you've already removed the old connector and you have a new connector (or at least a picture of one). Clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs. What's the problem?
Agreed. Looks like you already know the answer...
The board does not appear to be damaged. It's common for power sockets (usually microUSB) to break off the board which results in broken pads for the connection to the board... Take a close look while your cleaning to ensure it's still good, and get ready to put the new one in.
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- Nov 28, 2011
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So some of the connection pads came off the board when you removed the old socket? In that case, install the new socket, and for each of the missing pads, solder a piece of thin insulated wires from the terminal of the new socket to the closest component on the track that used to run to that terminal. Push the wires flat against the board and tack them in place with glue to keep them in place.
I think you are concerned with the yellow circled pads.
I would not worry about those. Take a look at the replacement socket. There are two tabs that go through the board, and two small metal tabs that get soldered to the surface of the board. The yellow circled pads are the surface mount pads for the shield on the outside of the connector.
The wires you really need to worry about are the two little pads in the middle which look pretty good in the picture. As Chris has said, if one of those pads is damaged, you can follow the line on the board, and use a small wire to connect the new connector to the nearest pin, or via that belongs to the same line.
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I see. It looks like those pads don't connect anywhere electrically; they're just there for rigidity. So you don't need to replace them. You do want to maximise rigidity, but most of that comes from the two tabs that go through the board. You could add rigidity by gluing the connector in place when everything is fixed and tested. I like hot melt glue because it grips strongly, has a little bit of flexibility, and can be re-melted if necessary in future.
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