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REPAIR 60 volt dc brushless hub scooter motor

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by tracy, Oct 2, 2007.

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  1. tracy

    tracy Guest

    I have two of these scooters, I am on the east coast, a friend on the
    west coast sent me his motor and controller to try and figure out what
    is wrong with it, I have made headway, got it working, kind of.

    First, this is a two speed motor, it has three power wires going to it
    along with 5 small tiny wires that are probably the HALL sensors.

    Two chane speeds, they have a hollow axle with a splined shaft in it,
    an external selenoid plunger moves this shaft back and forth.

    Inside the motor that shaft is moving a plate that has three contacts
    on it, they are the three power wires from the controller.

    On the outside of the rotating plate, is a hub that the plate sits in,
    it has six contacts, so when the plate is turned one way, it is
    connecting to three contacts, when the plate is moved the other way,
    it is connected to three other contacts.

    When the bike is in low speed hi torque, the plate is connecting the
    power wires indivually to three separate wires that appear to go into
    the windings separately.

    When the plate is turned the other way for high speed, all three power
    wires become common to each other, and also become common to all three
    winding wires too.

    Now, here is the problem, when he first sent me the motor controller
    he didnt know if the motor controller or both were bad.

    The shift selenoid had not worked for awhile, and he is not that
    technical, I figured out from talking to him that he had been riding
    the bike in high speed low torque for some time, that of course is
    going to make the motor a little hotter because you arent supposed to
    be in high until you hit 15 mph.

    Eventually, the motor quit, I did some diagnoses over the phone and
    found that if he put the bike on the stand and manually moved the
    spline shift shaft to low, that if he spun the tire by hand it would
    start going, same for high but he said it had a load grinding sound.

    So he sent me everything, I quickly found the controller was ok and
    then opened the motor, first I found that one of the maim power wires
    had come unsoldered from the rotating shift plate and another fell off
    while looking at it.

    So I soldered these back on an testing again.

    Now the bike would start in low and high on its own and low sounded
    good and like it should, but high growled real bad, and I had noticed
    that when the plate moved back and forth one of the power wires was a
    tad ling and might be rubbing, so I opened it up, shortened it and
    soldered it back.

    Now for the problem, prior to putting the motor back on and testing
    again I decided to check something else, I took a known good motor and
    put it in low and turned it by hand, then high and turned it. A slight
    resistance but basically no difference between low and high when
    turning the motor manually.

    Then I tried his, in low, turns fine, when I put it in high, very hard
    to turn, it goes and stops, goes and stops, I counted the pausing and
    it was 19 the same as the number of permanent magnets in the motor.

    So it appears that when the shifter is placed in high, and all the
    power wires and windings become common with each other, the motor does
    not turn freely and the permanent magnets are I guess feeding from one
    winding to another or something and causing this hesistation to turn
    and the growling sound when you try to run it in high.

    When I was test turning the know good and the bad motor, both are
    disconnected completely and on the bench, so I am baffled, has he
    fried the windings or something?
     
  2. Jamie

    Jamie Guest

    the 2 wires that came off my be backwards.
     
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