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Relisys 772 monitor trouble

T

tempus fugit

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hey all;

I have a 17" Relisys 772 monitor that has a few intermittent problems. The
display will be fine for a while, then turn a pinkish colour (very hard on
the eyes!). At other times, the screen will just go blank (i.e. dark). Also,
sometimes the display is pinkish at turn on, but comes back to normal later,
only to go pink or dark again. I'm trying to inspect the board for loose
connections, bad caps, etc, but to get to the bottom of the board I need to
remove it. The problem is the red wire that goes to the suction cup thing on
the CRT. It is connected to a box that has some trim pot adjustments on the
back, and I can't see a way to remove the red wire (the wire is too short to
pull the board out with it connected. Do I disconnect it from the suction
cup?
Also, any ideas on what may be causing the intermittent display? I forgot to
mention - when the disply is working, it looks fine; it's just the weird
pinkish thing and the fact that it will sometimes go blank. I should also
mention that when I first tried it out, it worked fine for a day or so
before the problems started.

Thanks
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
| Hey all;
|
| I have a 17" Relisys 772 monitor that has a few intermittent problems. The
| display will be fine for a while, then turn a pinkish colour (very hard on
| the eyes!). At other times, the screen will just go blank (i.e. dark).
Also,
| sometimes the display is pinkish at turn on, but comes back to normal
later,
| only to go pink or dark again. I'm trying to inspect the board for loose
| connections, bad caps, etc, but to get to the bottom of the board I need
to
| remove it. The problem is the red wire that goes to the suction cup thing
on
| the CRT. It is connected to a box that has some trim pot adjustments on
the
| back, and I can't see a way to remove the red wire (the wire is too short
to
| pull the board out with it connected. Do I disconnect it from the suction
| cup?

That 'wire' handles 11,000 volts - or more. No point in touching it if the
screen shows any display.

| Also, any ideas on what may be causing the intermittent display? I forgot
to
| mention - when the disply is working, it looks fine; it's just the weird
| pinkish thing and the fact that it will sometimes go blank. I should also
| mention that when I first tried it out, it worked fine for a day or so
| before the problems started.

Did you check the cable that connects to the computer and the socket on the
video card - not to mention the video card itself? Can you borrow a
different monitor and try it out?

N
 
T

tempus fugit

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks NSM.

NSM said:
That 'wire' handles 11,000 volts - or more. No point in touching it if the
screen shows any display.
I know that is a high voltage wire, and I am trying to troubleshoot the
board with the unit unplugged (it has been for several days now), but I
can't get at the board without removing that wire.
Did you check the cable that connects to the computer and the socket on the
video card - not to mention the video card itself? Can you borrow a
different monitor and try it out?

This is definitely a problem with this monitor - I have a 15" that I'm using
right now and the display is fine.
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
| Thanks NSM.
|
| I know that is a high voltage wire, and I am trying to troubleshoot the
| board with the unit unplugged (it has been for several days now), but I
| can't get at the board without removing that wire.
|
| This is definitely a problem with this monitor - I have a 15" that I'm
using
| right now and the display is fine.

Always divide the problem and conquer.

In that case I would look at the input stages first. HV would be something I
would not check at all.

Basically, the three colors have three amplifiers, and one or more of these
is not working right. An oscilloscope would be what I would reach for first,
after loading a (free) program to generate a test signal into a computer.

NM
 
T

tempus fugit

Jan 1, 1970
0
That's the problem though. I can't get to anything on the underside of the
board to test it without first removing the board. I can't remove the board
because that pesky HV wire is too short - I have to disconnect it before I
can do anything. I can't even check the board for cold solder joints or take
a quick ESR test of the filtering caps as it is now because I can't get to
the underside of the board at all.

So, how do I get that wire off?

Thanks
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
| That's the problem though. I can't get to anything on the underside of the
| board to test it without first removing the board. I can't remove the
board
| because that pesky HV wire is too short - I have to disconnect it before
I
| can do anything. I can't even check the board for cold solder joints or
take
| a quick ESR test of the filtering caps as it is now because I can't get to
| the underside of the board at all.
|
| So, how do I get that wire off?

Can't say for certain, but often these are like a reverse hairpin? you can
squeeze them and they'll unhook from the tube connector. You may have to try
2 or 3 spots on the plastic cover.

NM
 
T

tempus fugit

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks NSM

You're talking about where it connects to the board, not the suction cup,
right?
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
| Thanks NSM
|
| You're talking about where it connects to the board, not the suction cup,
| right?

No, to the tube. To the circuit board I wouldn't have a clue. It's not
soldered?

At the tube, there's a metal ring in the side which the 'suction cup'
connects to. That's the first place to disconnect.

NM
 
T

tempus fugit

Jan 1, 1970
0
OK, I got it. I wasn't sure what was going on with that suction cup thing
and I was afraid I might break the CRT, but it came out easily - reverse
hairpin like you said. Thanks
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
| OK, I got it. I wasn't sure what was going on with that suction cup thing
| and I was afraid I might break the CRT, but it came out easily - reverse
| hairpin like you said. Thanks

Yes. Some use a snap type connector, but they're all easy to remove once
you've seen one.

N
 
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