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rear window defogger replacement switch melts plastic covers

Discussion in 'Electronic Basics' started by [email protected], Dec 27, 2003.

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  1. Guest

    Hi, the rear window defogger switch of my car is defective. The parts
    office asks for $45 for a new part, and I cannot find any other office
    in my country. Therefore I decided to use a common switch. To this
    end, I had to find which 2 connectors to connect, because the original
    switch was connected to 4. I disasembled the original switch and I
    noticed that it looked like a common on-off switch connecting just 2
    of the connectors. I came to the conclusion that the other 2 where not
    used. Maybe they where there for a different version of the switch?
    Because the connectors where hidden in a plastic enclosure, I extended
    them using one 5 inch cable for each. Then I connected a usual on-off
    switch (13Ampere, 240 Volt) to these extensions. Now when the switch
    is on for about 1-2 minutes, the defogger works, but the plastic
    enclosure melts because a lot of heat is eminated from the original
    connectors and from their extensions. I do not think the resistance of
    the extension cables is high because they are thick copper wires I
    took out of a laundry machine computer! Any one knows what am I doing
    wrong? Any suggestion how to make the switch work?
  2. Current on my Demister(Defogger) is 28A. 13A is waaaayyyy to low, hence its
    getting hot, as the contact resistance is too high.
  3. Neil Nelson

    Neil Nelson Guest

    Not to mention that his 13 amp, 240 volt rating is for an AC
    circuit which makes it good for about 2 amps DC.
  4. sofie

    sofie Guest

    In the long run..... save money and time... and install the proper and safe
    exact factory replacement part..... not to mention that your experimenting
    with improper parts could easily cause personal injury, fires, etc.
    Be very certain to get all the wires back on the correct terminals of the
    new "exact" replacement switch.
  5. Michael

    Michael Guest

    () wrote in

    Whenever I have to replace anything on any of my cars - I visit the local
    junk yards. I have yet to buy any new parts. For something like that they'd
    probably ask for like $5. And then you wouldn't have to worry about
    anything catching fire :)

  6. Amen to that, but junkyard today prefer to be called "Used Parts Dealers"!

    Harry C.
  7. Howdy!

    "Automotive Parts Recycling Facility"

    Yes, actually, there IS a wrecking yard / junk yard / used part
    dealer in my town that goes by that name ...

    My nephew (who owns an auto salvage yard - still ANOTHER phrase for
    the same thing!) says that's because he specializes in Lexus, Acura,
    Cadillac, BMW, etc ...

  8. sdlomi

    sdlomi Guest

    Ever noticed that some parts, like hood hinges for instance, are
    nearly always cheaper, brand new, than at a salvage yard? So much labor
    removing, I am sure.
    BTW:When I was a kid, I junked a 48 Chevy (that I bought for $65
    with a 52 engine) when I sold the engine to a beach-goer whose engine locked
    up near our country store. Kept a notebook and recorded each $1 items I
    sold, 50cents, $15, etc. In about 1.5 years I had sold something like $250
    of stuff, including the eng. Man, what a business to be in! Or should I
    say PROFESSION? sdlomi
  9. James Sweet

    James Sweet Guest

    Depends on the yard really, I only go to the U-pull ones, locally good
    engines are $140, trannies are $55, hood hinges are something like $10,
    granted the newest cars they have are '90 or so.
  10. sdlomi

    sdlomi Guest

    Sounds as if you find those "oldies but goodies" yards. When I had
    time, I could browse for hours, finding things that suggested projects just
    by catching my attention. I'd probably still enjoy plundering thru
    them--good days I prolly will never again enjoy. Lucky you!!! Envious of
    your find and ability to utilize, sdlomi. Happy New Year!
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