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RCA CTC203 won't start

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by BWL, Jan 19, 2005.

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  1. BWL

    BWL Guest

    Have an RCA CTC203CX chassis which starts, makes H.V., then shuts down. I have
    the CD manual, but not a Chipper Checker. Folowing the troubleshooting guide in
    manual, I replaced C144103 (.5 @250v) with a [email protected] (all I had) , and set came
    on, produced pic. Shut off and restarted OK. Got a new .5 from local RCA
    supplier, and installed, but set would not start (same symptom). Putting the
    ..45 back in didn't help. The set is not being shut down by the x-ray line, it
    stays below .1v. Help!!!
    TIA
    Billy
     
  2. Guest

    If it's a model that has the PIP feature it's possible this board is
    shutting down the set. Unplug the small board with the AV jacks from
    the main chassis if it's got one and see if the set still shuts down.
    If not you most likely have bad solder connections on the surface mt
    resistors near the 3.3v regulator IC. Very hard to believe, I know. I
    read it here, didn't 100% believe it, but have seen the problem myself
    recently.
     
  3. Phil Bowser

    Phil Bowser Guest

    The set needs to communicate with all ICs on the I2C bus or it will shut
    down. I have repaired over a dozen sets that weren't getting enough +3.3V
    to the F2PIP processor on the little standup I/O jack / PIP board because of
    poor solder connections on the SMD resistor to the +3.3V 3-terminal
    regulator at the top of this little board. They use an adjustable regulator
    IC (LM317T) and when the adj. terminal isn't properly biased, the reg. IC
    outputs insufficient voltage for the F2PIP processor IC to properly
    communicate with the system control micro, and it shuts down. Try soldering
    this and all 3 terminals of the 3-pin reglator IC attached to the little
    heatsink. If this doesn't help, measure the 3.3V there during startup (best
    look at it with a scope0 to see if it makes it up to 3.3V. A quicker test
    is simply unplug the whole F2PIP PC board from the main board. The set
    should run fine without it - it just won't run with the chip dragging down
    the clock / data on the I2C bus. Also note that error codes to this effect
    will be stored and should be reset when repair is completed.
     
  4. Wildcard

    Wildcard Guest

    Seen a bad solder connection cause this in about 6 of these
    models. At home right now or I would look it up. But it
    was a connection on a coil (looking from the back) behind
    the heat sink for the HOT. Somewhere in the horiz driver
    section. The worst part is it dosen't look heat stressed
    or cracked. It appears the solder just did not stick to the
    lead of the coil too well.
     
  5. Art

    Art Guest

    Referring to L14401?? Remove the coil from the board, clean al the residue
    of the glue both from the pcb and from the coil leads. Reinstall the coil
    and resolder the leads to the pads. Very common problem with this design and
    the use of the glue that contaminates the connections.
     
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