Projection TV shutdown, convergence modules?

[Matt S]

Toshiba TPH5560 55inch

For a long time the red was bending. Shaking the TV would stop it for
anywhere from one minute to three weeks. Now the TV goes into safety
shutdown immediately after powering.

What are the chances it's anything but one of the stk392-110
convergence modules?

I don't really know what I'm doing, but from what I've read this seems
like a DIY fix rather than paying $200-$300. The desoldiering is all
that worries me, but I figure I can pick up some practice materials
from Radio Shack.

I also read that it's important to get the stk392-110 from a reputable
source. Is this one good?

http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=STK392-110

Thanks a lot.

 

[Meat Plow]

Toshiba TPH5560 55inch

For a long time the red was bending. Shaking the TV would stop it for
anywhere from one minute to three weeks. Now the TV goes into safety
shutdown immediately after powering.

What are the chances it's anything but one of the stk392-110
convergence modules?

I don't really know what I'm doing, but from what I've read this seems
like a DIY fix rather than paying $200-$300. The desoldiering is all
that worries me, but I figure I can pick up some practice materials
from Radio Shack.

I also read that it's important to get the stk392-110 from a reputable
source. Is this one good?

http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=STK392-110

Thanks a lot.

Just replaced a set of the same modules in my 51" Pana. Make sure you
check the low value resistors in and around the plugs that go to the CRTs
(I'm assuming the setup is similar to the Pana). I had 4 burned 10 ohm
1/10 watters that were charred, all on the green CRT plug which is what
color shifted. My set would still play though even with the bad 392-110. I
bought both devices from MCM electronic OEM Sanyo IIRC. I used thing
desolder braid and a low watt iron. Be careful as if the lands were
overheated they may pull up during the desolder process. Also buy a can of
flux stripper and clean the freshly soldered joints to make sure you
didn't bridge any. Also clean the heat sink well and use a decent
conductive paste. If all of this makes sense then go ahead and replace the
devices.

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

MCM has had problems with the STK392-110 that they supplied in the past. I
don't know if they are still selling the same parts but they were believed
to be counterfeits at one time. I'd stick with suppliers that go out of
their way to verify the parts are OEM Sanyo, such as B&D, Acme, or
Electronica (not Electronix).

Also, the STK392-110 was discontinued a long time ago. Even the
replacements have all been discontinued by Sanyo. The direct replacement is
the STK394-250, but the STK392-150 has been used by several manufacturers
and has ahigher power rating. The STK394-160 appears to replace it, but we
have not been able to confirm the rating on that one yet.

According to the Sanyo info, the 394 series has slightly better thermal
performance and the case should make it harder to counterfeit.

Leonard

 

[Meat Plow]

MCM has had problems with the STK392-110 that they supplied in the past. I
don't know if they are still selling the same parts but they were believed
to be counterfeits at one time. I'd stick with suppliers that go out of
their way to verify the parts are OEM Sanyo, such as B&D, Acme, or
Electronica (not Electronix).

Also, the STK392-110 was discontinued a long time ago. Even the
replacements have all been discontinued by Sanyo. The direct replacement is
the STK394-250, but the STK392-150 has been used by several manufacturers
and has ahigher power rating. The STK394-160 appears to replace it, but we
have not been able to confirm the rating on that one yet.

According to the Sanyo info, the 394 series has slightly better thermal
performance and the case should make it harder to counterfeit.

Leonard

Well I guess we'll see how mine holds up. I suspect I'll have no problems.