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Problem, Solution = gerbils??

Discussion in 'Misc Electronics' started by Watson A.Name - \Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\, Jul 12, 2004.

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  1. Steve Sousa

    Steve Sousa Guest

    in message ..
    What about one of those lamps that flicker like a candle?
     
  2. John Fields

    John Fields Guest

    ---
    A 100 watt incandescent lamp turned on and off periodically will do
    it. The trick is, you have to locate the lamp on one side or the
    other of the PIR motion detector's sensitive region so that the heat
    from the lamp will only get focused on one of the PIR sensor's two
    detectors.
     
  3. Jeff Wisnia

    Jeff Wisnia Guest


    There's no manufacturer's name on them to lead you to a web site where
    you can find or ask for information about them?

    Jeff
     
  4. Well, I went out there today and went on a walk-thru of the new bldg
    with the other honchos. I found that the light switches have _two_
    small buttons, side-by-side, labeled "I" and "II". These are set up so
    that one of them lights the center tube of the three-tube fluo light,
    and the other lights the two outer tubes of the fluo light. So you can
    press both buttons for all three. Unfortunately there's no way to
    rapidly toggle these on and off, because they're like a ball point pen,
    they're click on, click off. And they're small enough so that if you're
    trying to hit them quickly, you're likely to press the wrong one, or
    both of them.

    So it looks like your idea of rapidly toggling these, sadly, isn't going
    to work. And _every_steenking_room_ has them! Damn!
     
  5. Hey, YEAH! That's a good idea! Actually, I've found the perfect
    candidate. As we were doing the walk-thru, we saw this small gray-brown
    spot of fur fly by, below our feet. It was a little field mouse that,
    for some reason, ran inside. Well, later, there he was again, flitting
    down the hallway, more scared of us than we were of him! EEK!

    Looks like we need to get a cat or two. The exterminator put traps
    outside each building, but apparently, from this experience, they're not
    doing the job!
     
  6. The ones I've seen have two electrodes in neon gas, and don't produce
    enough IR to do the job.
     
  7. For the last half hour, I've been googling for motion sensing light
    switches, and I still haven't come across anything that looks remotely
    like the ones in this new bldg. I'm going to keep searching until I
    find one that at least _looks_ like them. So far, I know that they're
    not Leviton, Zenith or GE.
     
  8. Ah-HAH! I'm finding out more and more about these sensors. So even tho
    they're only three leads, ground, power and output, they have more than
    a single sensor inside? That's good to know, thanks. Maybe that's why
    J.T. suggested two lights spaced 3' apart.
     
  9. John Fields

    John Fields Guest

    Yes. AFAIK there are three types of materials used in the sensors:
    lithium niobate, poled polyvinylidene fluoride, and a ceramic of some
    sort. Almost all of them internally use two tiny rectangular sensors
    which generate an electrical signal when they're heated, (or cooled)
    and they're connected differentially so that if they're both heated or
    cooled at the same rate the net output from the pair will be zero. A
    lens is used in front of them so that as a warm object moves across
    them the image will be focused when it hits them, and as the spot
    traverses the pair it generates the desired output, which is usually
    cap-coupled and severely bandwidth limited and eventually used to
    makes the yes-no decision about whether to turn on the lights, or
    detonate the bomb, or whatever.
    ---

    That's good to know, thanks.

    ---
    You're welcome. :)
    ---
    ---
    More than likely, but you can do it just as well with a single
    off-normal lamp, and I'd put it farther away from the center line than
    18 inches just to make sure it's not hitting both sensors equally.

    My 100 watts is probably way overkill, too, since we humans radiate
    about 100 watts from a rather large area, so you could for sure get by
    with less from a point-ish source like an incandescent lamp.
     
  10. Rich Grise

    Rich Grise Guest

    on Monday 12 July 2004 04:51 pm, Watson A.Name "Watt Sun - the Dark Remover"
    Then again, you could just stay awake. ;-)
     
  11. Real simple - plug a lead light into a AC outlet, then you dont have
    to worry about the main lights. Most techs have one in the back of the
    truck for situations where there is no AC lighting.....
    73 de VK3BFA

    PS - the hi tech stuff IS interesting, but sometimes the problem
    becomes so complex it stops you doing what you originally set out to
    do.
     
  12. Most people don't realize that you can modulate the incandescent lamp
    with audio and detect it with a photovoltaic cell. It does sound
    muffled, tho. So I would say that the lamp would have no problem
    responding to the on/off cycles of a 555. And it's a helluva lot more
    portable than a light, fan, foil, etc.
    Well, I stopped by OSH and bought a clamp-on lamp socket with aluminum
    reflector and a few 40W appliance bulbs. I'm planning on plugging it in
    at each workstation, leave it on the floor or clamp it on the desk edge,
    and to hell with the IR sensors, let 'em go off. I got my own light
    source!
    Yeah, really! Thanks.
     
  13. Yeah, drain the proverbial swamp.. Thanks.
     
  14. Yummy! You think I can find that flavor at Baskin Robbins? It's
    getting to be Ice Cream weather! ;-)

    Actually, recently I went into Coldstone, where they custom mix your
    favorite flavors. Yummy, but more expensive.
    http://www.coldstonecreamery.com/main/index.asp
    It makes sense to have a pair to balance out any slow changes in
    temperature, otherwise the thing would trigger every time the sunlight
    hit it. I reverse engineered one security light circuit, and I was
    surprised that they used a pair of electrolytics, 470 uF IIRC, back to
    back as coupling caps to give the high pass filtering, aka keep the DC
    out of the next stage amplifier.
     
  15. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor Guest

    Boring in the extreme. All these good ideas and I was waiting for a
    modulated cat passive heat dissipating shields with remote control tied to a
    fan and you go and buy lamps, most unsatisfactory.
     
  16. A lot of the movement sensor Lights I have seen have an over-ride function
    where the light stays permanently on if you flip the light switch off and
    back on in less than a couple of Seconds....
     
  17. Ahh missed this bit of the thread .... The Sensor switches I have seen give
    you a couple of Seconds to toggle them off and On - however it does sound
    like these ones may not be designed for this option but if they use a
    standard Chip/Circuit this still might work have you tried turning them On
    ..... then off and on again to see if they do stay on ?
     
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