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Problem after replacing power supply board in Pioneer Elite Pro-200

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Brad Beerman, Aug 13, 2004.

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  1. Brad Beerman

    Brad Beerman Guest

    I am pulling my hair out with this Pioneer Elite Pro-200 RPTV and I'd
    appreciate any advice. I replaced the power supply / deflection board
    with a new one from Pioneer, and at the same time, I zeroed out all
    the convergence settings, the rgb cut and drive, and the brightness,
    contrast, tint, etc on the service menu. Also, I adjusted the vr
    screen controls slightly.

    The TV has a problem where it will sometimes shut off, where I can
    immediately power it off and back on again. This seems to happen less
    when I turn down some of the following: brightness, contrast, vr
    screen (blue), blue drive. I'm thinking maybe this problem was caused
    by all my adjustments and could be fixed by a calibration. Does it
    sound reasonable to assume that I probably caused the problem by
    zeroing out the service menu settings? Or would you suspect a
    hardware problem with the new board? For those that frequently deal
    with Pioneer, what do you think the chances are that the new board
    they sent me is bad?

    Any advice would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks

    Brad
     
  2. Are you talking about the inside of a TV setting? Like High-voltage
    drive? Don't touch it!!!!!!!!!!!!

    X-rays will blast you. It sounds like the high-voltage protection
    circuit kicking in. (Just a guess)

    Isildur's Bane
     
  3. Brad Beerman

    Brad Beerman Guest

    No, the HV drive and xray pots are covered by a shield and have not
    been touched since they were adjusted at the factory by Pioneer. Does
    anyone think I've received a bad replacement board?
     
  4. Ampdoc

    Ampdoc Guest

    Possible, but unlikely. However you did set yourself up for HOURS of fun by
    zeroing the EEPROM. Bad move. It will take most of forever to get that right
    again. Most likely your problem is a CRT arcing, which probably took out the
    PS originally. You can make a "poor boy" CRT tester with an old CRT socket,
    a neon lamp, and 2 10M resistors, along with an alligator clip. Connect all
    pins of the CRT socket together, then attach one lead of the neon, attach
    the other lead of the neon to the resistors,(series) the other end of the
    resistors goes to your alligator clip. Remove CRT board and connect your
    tester, connect the alligator to the CRT ground, darken the room and power
    up. You should see a very brief flash from the neon then nothing. If the
    neon lights AT ALL then you have a gassy/shorted/bad CRT. Also you may try
    GENTLY tapping the neck of the CRT and see if any arcing occurs, or if it
    causes shutdown. Do you have the service manual for this set? Which of the
    shutdown LED's is lighting? Only the main shutdown LED on the PS is latched,
    the others only flash briefly when shutdown occurs, thus you have to be
    looking at them when the set is turned on, otherwise you'll miss it.


    --
    Jammy Harbin
    J & J Electronics, Inc.
    227 S. 4th St.
    Selmer, TN 38375
    731-645-3311
     
  5. Tom W

    Tom W Guest

    I'm with Jammy. It's definitely going to take forever to readjust. It would
    be worth your time to find another PRO200 or 100 and use those #'s as a
    starting point. I learned a long time ago to write down the values before I
    changed anything in the service menu. As far as the shutting off, I'd try
    resoldering the convergence assy.

    Tom W.
    Dando Electronics
     
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