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Problem after replacing power supply board in Pioneer Elite Pro-200

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Brad Beerman

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am pulling my hair out with this Pioneer Elite Pro-200 RPTV and I'd
appreciate any advice. I replaced the power supply / deflection board
with a new one from Pioneer, and at the same time, I zeroed out all
the convergence settings, the rgb cut and drive, and the brightness,
contrast, tint, etc on the service menu. Also, I adjusted the vr
screen controls slightly.

The TV has a problem where it will sometimes shut off, where I can
immediately power it off and back on again. This seems to happen less
when I turn down some of the following: brightness, contrast, vr
screen (blue), blue drive. I'm thinking maybe this problem was caused
by all my adjustments and could be fixed by a calibration. Does it
sound reasonable to assume that I probably caused the problem by
zeroing out the service menu settings? Or would you suspect a
hardware problem with the new board? For those that frequently deal
with Pioneer, what do you think the chances are that the new board
they sent me is bad?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

Brad
 
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Isildur's Bane

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am pulling my hair out with this Pioneer Elite Pro-200 RPTV and I'd
appreciate any advice. I replaced the power supply / deflection board
with a new one from Pioneer, and at the same time, I zeroed out all
the convergence settings, the rgb cut and drive, and the brightness,
contrast, tint, etc on the service menu. Also, I adjusted the vr
screen controls slightly.

The TV has a problem where it will sometimes shut off, where I can
immediately power it off and back on again. This seems to happen less
when I turn down some of the following: brightness, contrast, vr
screen (blue), blue drive. I'm thinking maybe this problem was caused
by all my adjustments and could be fixed by a calibration. Does it
sound reasonable to assume that I probably caused the problem by
zeroing out the service menu settings? Or would you suspect a
hardware problem with the new board? For those that frequently deal
with Pioneer, what do you think the chances are that the new board
they sent me is bad?

Any advice would be very much appreciated.

Thanks

Brad

Are you talking about the inside of a TV setting? Like High-voltage
drive? Don't touch it!!!!!!!!!!!!

X-rays will blast you. It sounds like the high-voltage protection
circuit kicking in. (Just a guess)

Isildur's Bane
 
B

Brad Beerman

Jan 1, 1970
0
Are you talking about the inside of a TV setting? Like High-voltage
drive? Don't touch it!!!!!!!!!!!!

X-rays will blast you. It sounds like the high-voltage protection
circuit kicking in. (Just a guess)
No, the HV drive and xray pots are covered by a shield and have not
been touched since they were adjusted at the factory by Pioneer. Does
anyone think I've received a bad replacement board?
 
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Ampdoc

Jan 1, 1970
0
Possible, but unlikely. However you did set yourself up for HOURS of fun by
zeroing the EEPROM. Bad move. It will take most of forever to get that right
again. Most likely your problem is a CRT arcing, which probably took out the
PS originally. You can make a "poor boy" CRT tester with an old CRT socket,
a neon lamp, and 2 10M resistors, along with an alligator clip. Connect all
pins of the CRT socket together, then attach one lead of the neon, attach
the other lead of the neon to the resistors,(series) the other end of the
resistors goes to your alligator clip. Remove CRT board and connect your
tester, connect the alligator to the CRT ground, darken the room and power
up. You should see a very brief flash from the neon then nothing. If the
neon lights AT ALL then you have a gassy/shorted/bad CRT. Also you may try
GENTLY tapping the neck of the CRT and see if any arcing occurs, or if it
causes shutdown. Do you have the service manual for this set? Which of the
shutdown LED's is lighting? Only the main shutdown LED on the PS is latched,
the others only flash briefly when shutdown occurs, thus you have to be
looking at them when the set is turned on, otherwise you'll miss it.


--
Jammy Harbin
J & J Electronics, Inc.
227 S. 4th St.
Selmer, TN 38375
731-645-3311
 
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Tom W

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'm with Jammy. It's definitely going to take forever to readjust. It would
be worth your time to find another PRO200 or 100 and use those #'s as a
starting point. I learned a long time ago to write down the values before I
changed anything in the service menu. As far as the shutting off, I'd try
resoldering the convergence assy.

Tom W.
Dando Electronics
 
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