Connect with us

Prewire a single hung window?

Discussion in 'Security Alarms' started by Gus, Jun 7, 2004.

Scroll to continue with content
  1. Gus

    Gus Guest

    Looks like my builder will use single hung, insulated ,high-E aluminun
    windows on my house.

    Brand -- Fisher

    I have looked at them and don't see how to mount the magnet on the
    window - if you can even use a hidden switch.

    Hidden switches would be nice but I don't see how to mount a magnet
    for a hidden switch.

    Surface mounted switches and magnets will be easy with glueing the
    magnest to the slider frame. I want to wire the window so I can keep
    it open partially.
    Check me out - If I do this I would mount the switch at the center
    (where the slider and the fixed panes meet) of the window as well as
    one magnet. Then mount another magnet 6-9-12" lower on the lower
    sliding window.

    Is this how it is don?????

    thanks,

    Gus
     
  2. Frank Olson

    Frank Olson Guest

    Hi Gus:

    I'm not familiar with your particular brand of window, but on most sliders, what
    you describe as a fresh air opening is the way most of us would do it. The one
    drawback with using surface contacts is that they're both visible and accessible
    to anyone who wants to take advantage.

    The way I see it is you have two options. You can wire a concealed contact in
    the track and then use a rare earth magnet in the window frame. Most sliders
    (even vertical ones) can be removed quite easily. The only thing I would be
    concerned with is the "mechanics" involved. Some vertical sliders I've seen use
    a sleeve to hold the window frame that "travels" with it as you open it. In
    this instance a concealed contact/magnet would be difficult to properly mount.
    If you can point us to a website that provides some more details on your windows
    that would be helpful. You can also take a couple of digital pictures and post
    them on a free web page (yahoo, geocities, or excite) for us to review.

    The second option is to go with security screens. These are units that replace
    the existing window screen with one that has a very thin sensor wire embedded in
    it as well as a magnet in the frame. If someone removes the screen or cuts his
    way through it to gain entry, the alarm will be triggered. There are several
    screen manufacturers in the US and Canada.

    Good luck with your project.
     
  3. I recently dealt with a similar problem in a house that I own. I
    "deglazed" one of the sliders so that I could check out the amount of
    free space between the double glass units and the window frame. It
    turned out that the free space was just barely ample for little 1/2"
    magnets. On the window that I had deglazed I went ahead and drilled the
    borehole for the magnet before reattaching the glazing strip. This way
    I could literally see the drill bit as it penetrated the frame -- before
    it bumped into the seal separating the panes -- and could get a better
    "feel" for the whole operation. On the rest of the windows I used tape
    on the drill bit to mark the depth of the bore and took care to prevent
    the drill from cutting too deep.

    It's worth mentioning that I didn't embark on this method without
    pre-assurance that I could readily find replacement glass in the event
    that I managed to accidentally drill into the silicone seal separating
    the two panes. If this happens, ie you perforate the seal between the
    panes, the world won't come to an end immediately but the window will
    eventually fog up, develop an oily film on the inside, etc, etc, and
    you'll need to replace the glass.

    Deglazing is easy. The learning curve for this particular task is only
    one or two windows on any given window type, but it helps to have
    someone around who's done it previously on your particular type of
    window. One of my friends is a window manufacturer and I've suggested
    that she introduce a line of windows with pre-installed switches. If
    the switches were installed at the factory, it would add next to nothing
    to the window cost, but so far she hasn't pursued the idea.

    Frank's suggestion about rare earth methods is probably the safer way to go.

    And no, I'm not a licensed alarm installer and no, it's not necessary in
    my state to install switches on your own windows. :)
     
  4. Gus

    Gus Guest

    Thanks guys for the responces....... Fisher is the only name they gave
    me and I can not find this company on the internet.

    This looks like a cheap contractor's grade insulated double paned
    window. The frame looked thin to me.

    I needed recomendations for a prewire on this window. I guess I could
    wait until they install the windows and find a company I can fax the
    specs to before I wire it.

    My problem is that this town is tight for supplies for alarms so I
    will have to mail order everything and a buiilder may not like to
    wait for that. I may have to go with just drilling a hole in the
    window frame at the top of the slider and hope to find not too ugle
    switches later to complete the job.

    On the demo window the outer part of the frame is flat without any
    type of ballast. It looks like I could drill a hole in the frame
    through the framing stud and install a hidden switch if I did not want
    to be able to partially leave it open. There was a convex plastic cap
    on top of the sliding window which would require modification to
    accept a magnet.

    This is why I was considering surface mount switches & mags. On
    someone's web site I saw miniture surface switches and mags that did
    not look too bad.

    By the way this house will have a concrete slab foundation...no
    basement.
    Also the second I drill the window, all warrantees are gone.

    I did see a method of just recessing a surface mount switch and
    painting over it to conceal it. I don't know the range of the magnets
    but it would have to be at least 1" to reach from the sliding window.

    ********* I guess the best question is where to drill a hole and run
    the wire and get out of the way of the builder.

    I will post piicture of the window or supply other information if or
    when I get it fro the builder....

    Thanks again.

    For a quick & dirty security system I think I will hook up a small and
    old Honneywell unit I have to my two future PIRs and work on the
    premeter.

    Gus
     
  5. Frank Olson

    Frank Olson Guest

    "Mistaken" in whose lexicon?? The "Great Alarm Guru Bassnaks'"??

    Oh Great Guru!! Forgive this lowly peon... This poor silly-but-sincere
    installer person who has (gasp!) failed to heed Your Wonderful Flabby
    Gawdliness... Your most Magnificent Beastly Bassness... Your High and
    Undeniably Odiferous (Ass)Holiness...

    I will immediately set myself to writing 100,000 times: "I will read the Great
    Guru's FAQ's in their awesome entirety" !! You want me to email them to you one
    at a time?? :))
     
  6. rory

    rory Guest

    I used to use screens where i could, so much easier, and better
    protection, but yes costs more.

    Rory
     
  7. Gus

    Gus Guest

    http://photos.yahoo.com/kramont

    Someone suggested I post pictures of the windows I will prewire..Here
    they are, they are Fisher Alinco.

    Probably a regional small company. They seem to be light weight
    frames.

    The black cap on top of the bottom slider is plastic and almost flat.

    If you remember I was thinking I was going to have to use surface
    switches in order to keep the windows open for ventilation. If I
    don't Is this just a drill a hole for the recesed switch and glue the
    magnet on top of the black plastic cap.

    If I use surface switches I assume the placement is at the
    intersection of the two glasses. Can you buy extra magnets?

    Thanks for auy suggestions,

    Gus
     
  8. Gus

    Gus Guest

    Thanks Robert, I just wanted to hear it from an expert.

    Since this is a prewire and I will have access all areas I can drill
    the holes for he wiresnest to the frame.

    I did not know if the recomendation would be to screw the switch to
    the wall frame and if the magnet would be strong enough to span this
    distance.

    Thanks again for the effort,
    Gus
     
Ask a Question
Want to reply to this thread or ask your own question?
You'll need to choose a username for the site, which only take a couple of moments (here). After that, you can post your question and our members will help you out.
Electronics Point Logo
Continue to site
Quote of the day

-