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Portable A/C

Discussion in 'Electronic Repair' started by Tom Del Rosso, Jun 27, 2007.

  1. Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
    flexible duct that goes into the window)?

    I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

    The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
    don't seem to have anything at all.
     
  2. And I did spell Friedrich right when I searched for them.
     
  3. daytona°

    daytona° Guest

    Home Cheapo or LoweBalls
     
  4. PC Richards carries Amana, and occasionally another brand.
    I have two. So far so good. About $350.
    Newspaper ads show others, about the same price.

    But even the salesguy was hemming and hawing, as they supposedly get a lot
    of returns, due to high expectations.
    The EER is very low, the BTUs proly not what the label says (about 8K), but,
    for excellent dehumidification (buckets of water, also will throw the
    condensate out with the heat (a misting process--nice), which might even
    help efficiency), and passable A/C, if the space is not too big, or
    enclosed, like a basement.

    For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
    heater.
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  5. RicodJour

    RicodJour Guest

    The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
    high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
    residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
    relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
    themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
    efficient.

    R
     
  6. Guest

    Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
    delivered to
    it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

    And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
    which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

    J
     
  7. RicodJour

    RicodJour Guest

    I understand your point. Let me rephrase what I'm trying to say and
    maybe you can clarify my thinking. A resistance heater is adding the
    full load to the room and the relative humidity would stay more or
    less the same. A dehumidifier would remove humidity, and add the full
    heat load initially. After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
    the sensible heat be lower?

    R
     
  8. No. How are you going to turn water vapor into water by
    extracting the heat from it, reject that heat into the room, and have
    the rom cool down ???

    Your sensible heat will be 'what is was before' + 'the latent
    heat of condensation of the water vapor condensed' out + 'the
    inefficiency / waste heat of the device'.


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  9. Guest

    Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat pumps,
    since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured a 1.6 COP with
    a power meter and a measuring cup.

    Nick
     
  10. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Since when?
     
  11. Guest

    Guest Guest

    No
     
  12. Ook

    Ook Guest

    Don't waste your money on one. I had an 8000 BTU model. It was a
    worthless piece of junk. They have a *very* serious design flaw - the
    air the gets blown across the condensing coils (high side, the hot part)
    on normal a/c units comes from outside, blows across the high side, and
    is vented to the outside. Works great. With the portable units, the air
    that blows across the condensing coils comes from the room your are
    trying to cool, and is vented to the outside. This causes a relatively
    high volume of air to be vented to the outside - and hot air to be
    sucked into the room. IOW, it is constantly sucking in a lot of hot air
    from outside, and trying to cool it along with the hot air that is
    already in the room. Because of this, they will not cool as much space
    as a window mount 8000 BTU unit will.

    Bite the bullet and get a window mount unit.
     
  13. Ken Weitzel

    Ken Weitzel Guest

    Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
    and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
    AC rate)

    Devil made me do it :)

    Take care.

    Ken
     
  14. dpb

    dpb Guest

    But both of those are eventually absorbed and dissipated as heat...

    --
     
  15. Guest

    Guest Guest


    So you're saying a dehumidifier that consumes 800 watts of energy is
    providing more than 800 watts of heat?

    BULLSHIT!!!!
     
  16. Guest

    your far better off buying several window units, more efficent, no
    moving hassles, quieter, since at least some of the noise is outside.

    and small window units are cheap.
     
  17. Both of which ( light and vibration ) are forms of energy
    released into the room, which become heat, thus it IS 100 %
    efficient :)

    Dog made me do it :)


    --
    Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
    http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

    Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
    'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
    'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
    HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
    Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
     
  18. As is your bad advice here.


    --
    Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
    http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

    Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
    'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
    'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
    HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
    Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
     
  19. Jensington

    Jensington Guest

    My 2 cents on a portable AC:

    1) Get a model with two hoses - the two hose models use outside air to
    cool the condenser and will be more effecient. You will not be
    sucking the cooled air out of the room to blow it outside - this is
    what the models with one hose do (the condenser air comes from
    somewhere.
    2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
    unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time. They
    seem to be able to blow some condensate out the air hose, but unless
    you are in a dry area you will probably get more condensate than what
    it can evaporate out the air hose. (If you want to pump water out the
    window you will probably need a condensate pump and some
    3) They are for the most part pretty quiet. It seems most of the
    noise is what you can hear through the thin walls of the air hoses
    leading to the window (these hoses connect to the area the condenser
    fan and compressor live in - most of the noise is in there).

    I personally have had a PAD-121 running every night for 3 years
    without any issues. That model is no longer available, but the
    successor is: http://www.heatcontroller.com/series.php?prod=ca&sid=15&c=17

    There are plenty of options out there though, so do your research...

    J
     
  20. How so? :)

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