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Portable A/C

T

Tom Del Rosso

Jan 1, 1970
0
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.
 
T

Tom Del Rosso

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tom Del Rosso said:
The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like
Friedrick don't seem to have anything at all.

And I did spell Friedrich right when I searched for them.
 
P

Proctologically Violated©®

Jan 1, 1970
0
PC Richards carries Amana, and occasionally another brand.
I have two. So far so good. About $350.
Newspaper ads show others, about the same price.

But even the salesguy was hemming and hawing, as they supposedly get a lot
of returns, due to high expectations.
The EER is very low, the BTUs proly not what the label says (about 8K), but,
for excellent dehumidification (buckets of water, also will throw the
condensate out with the heat (a misting process--nice), which might even
help efficiency), and passable A/C, if the space is not too big, or
enclosed, like a basement.

For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.
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R

RicodJour

Jan 1, 1970
0
For winter, get a standalone dehumidifer--which also acts as a 600-800 watt
heater.

The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R
 
The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

R

Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
delivered to
it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

J
 
R

RicodJour

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sorry, but it is surely 100% efficient, in that all the energy
delivered to
it (not dissipated in transmission) is transferred to local load.

And, for winter, the dehumidifier does not dissipate energy outdoors,
which, for this discussion, is as good as it gets.

I understand your point. Let me rephrase what I'm trying to say and
maybe you can clarify my thinking. A resistance heater is adding the
full load to the room and the relative humidity would stay more or
less the same. A dehumidifier would remove humidity, and add the full
heat load initially. After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
the sensible heat be lower?

R
 
P

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

Jan 1, 1970
0
I understand your point. Let me rephrase what I'm trying to say and
maybe you can clarify my thinking. A resistance heater is adding the
full load to the room and the relative humidity would stay more or
less the same. A dehumidifier would remove humidity, and add the full
heat load initially. After the dehumidifier ran for a while, wouldn't
the sensible heat be lower?

R

No. How are you going to turn water vapor into water by
extracting the heat from it, reject that heat into the room, and have
the rom cool down ???

Your sensible heat will be 'what is was before' + 'the latent
heat of condensation of the water vapor condensed' out + 'the
inefficiency / waste heat of the device'.


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RicodJour said:
... I think you're a bit on the high side in your heat output estimate.
I think 400 watts for a residential unit would be more realistic. You're
dropping the relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat pumps,
since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured a 1.6 COP with
a power meter and a measuring cup.

Nick
 
O

Ook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Tom said:
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

I don't need heat from it -- just A/C and dehumidification.

The names Soleus and Amcor pop up a lot. The familiar names like Friedrick
don't seem to have anything at all.

Don't waste your money on one. I had an 8000 BTU model. It was a
worthless piece of junk. They have a *very* serious design flaw - the
air the gets blown across the condensing coils (high side, the hot part)
on normal a/c units comes from outside, blows across the high side, and
is vented to the outside. Works great. With the portable units, the air
that blows across the condensing coils comes from the room your are
trying to cool, and is vented to the outside. This causes a relatively
high volume of air to be vented to the outside - and hot air to be
sucked into the room. IOW, it is constantly sucking in a lot of hot air
from outside, and trying to cool it along with the hot air that is
already in the room. Because of this, they will not cool as much space
as a window mount 8000 BTU unit will.

Bite the bullet and get a window mount unit.
 
K

Ken Weitzel

Jan 1, 1970
0
kjpro said:
Since when?

Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

Devil made me do it :)

Take care.

Ken
 
D

dpb

Jan 1, 1970
0
Ken said:
Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

But both of those are eventually absorbed and dissipated as heat...

--
 
G

Guest

Jan 1, 1970
0
Dehumidifiers are MORE than 100% efficient as heaters, as latent heat pumps,
since removing water vapor from air adds heat. I measured a 1.6 COP with
a power meter and a measuring cup.


So you're saying a dehumidifier that consumes 800 watts of energy is
providing more than 800 watts of heat?

BULLSHIT!!!!
 
your far better off buying several window units, more efficent, no
moving hassles, quieter, since at least some of the noise is outside.

and small window units are cheap.
 
P

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hehehe... can't resist. A teensy bit is light (the element glows),
and maybe even a teensier bit is noise (the element vibrates at the
AC rate)

Devil made me do it :)

Take care.

Ken

Both of which ( light and vibration ) are forms of energy
released into the room, which become heat, thus it IS 100 %
efficient :)

Dog made me do it :)


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
 
P

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com

Jan 1, 1970
0
your far better off buying several window units, more efficent, no
moving hassles, quieter, since at least some of the noise is outside.

and small window units are cheap.

As is your bad advice here.


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
 
J

Jensington

Jan 1, 1970
0
Any recommendations for a portable A/C, about 8000 BTU (the kind with a
flexible duct that goes into the window)?

My 2 cents on a portable AC:

1) Get a model with two hoses - the two hose models use outside air to
cool the condenser and will be more effecient. You will not be
sucking the cooled air out of the room to blow it outside - this is
what the models with one hose do (the condenser air comes from
somewhere.
2) Be prepared to have a real drain (ie hose going somewhere) on the
unit unless you want to be emptying condensate all the time. They
seem to be able to blow some condensate out the air hose, but unless
you are in a dry area you will probably get more condensate than what
it can evaporate out the air hose. (If you want to pump water out the
window you will probably need a condensate pump and some
3) They are for the most part pretty quiet. It seems most of the
noise is what you can hear through the thin walls of the air hoses
leading to the window (these hoses connect to the area the condenser
fan and compressor live in - most of the noise is in there).

I personally have had a PAD-121 running every night for 3 years
without any issues. That model is no longer available, but the
successor is: http://www.heatcontroller.com/series.php?prod=ca&sid=15&c=17

There are plenty of options out there though, so do your research...

J
 
S

Sam Goldwasser

Jan 1, 1970
0
RicodJour said:
The OP said he didn't require heating. I think you're a bit on the
high side in your heat output estimate. I think 400 watts for a
residential unit would be more realistic. You're dropping the
relative humidity which will affect latent heat, and the units
themselves only draw 600-800 watts. Even a heating element isn't 100%
efficient.

How so? :)

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