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Plug and socket suggestion needed

J

James Meyer

Jan 1, 1970
0
So plug 120VAC into your LAN card and see what happens.

Ken

A couple of surface mounted resistors blew up, but no fire resulted.

Jim
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug on
the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't needed. The
easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2 prong outlet
and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the cable with the
switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it in and flip the
switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case something starts on
fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been searching Mouser and
Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and matching plug I have
found are the round ones that have from two on up to 100 or maybe more
conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are around $30 for the plug and
socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less money than that. Any
suggestions?

Jones Connectors.
http://www.google.com/search?&q="jones+connectors"
First hit:
http://www.action-electronics.com/cinch.htm

Have Fun!
Rich
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Let me see if I can explain it better. The control box has a time delay
relay that stooped working a few weeks ago. While I was getting that
replaced, I wired a SPST switch in parallel with the relay contact and
did the time delay manually, so I could still use the system till the
relay was replaced. Now I want to remove that switch but still keep it
around so if the relay goes bad again I can just plug it in and go. The
switch has to be on the end of about a 6 foot cable to make the system
usable. So I want to cut the wire at the box put a socket in the box and
a plug on the wire with the switch.

I don't know why my newsreader isn't threading these things right, but
a couple posts back (or maybe in a different thread if you've posted
the same question twice), I suggested Jones connectors. About two
bucks, and there's not a chance of plugging anything else into them:
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/621/871.pdf

Have Fun!
Rich
 
J

John G

Jan 1, 1970
0
John Woodgate said:
I read in sci.electronics.design that James Meyer <[email protected]>



'Rated' at 125 V and 'safe on 120 V mains' are not the same thing. 120
V mains gets voltage spikes of at least 1 kV on it and the clearance
and creepage distances have to take that into account.
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.
 
J

James Meyer

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks John,

Thats what I wanted to say too.

And Is cat5 cable rated for mains use? NO.

The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.

Jim
 
E

Eric Inazaki

Jan 1, 1970
0
James Meyer said:
The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.

Jim


Well, here's the original post:
I have a control box with a 2 wire cable going out to a SPST switch that
switches 120V AC line. I want to put a socket on in the box and a plug
on the wire with the switch so I can disconnect it when it isn't
needed. The easiest thing I can think of would be to use a standard 2
prong outlet and plug. The problem with that is, someone might find the
cable with the switch and plug on the end, wonder what it does, plug it
in and flip the switch. Best case, they trip a breaker, worst case
something starts on fire. So I don't like that idea. I have been
searching Mouser and Digikey and the only other panel mount socket and
matching plug I have found are the round ones that have from two on up
to 100 or maybe more conductors. Even the 2 conductor versions are
around $30 for the plug and socket. I was hoping to spend a lot less
money than that. Any suggestions?

I don't see any reference to "current limited". The cable/switch
contraption sounds like it's supposed to back up a set of relay
contacts that, for all I (or you) know, will be switching mains
power.

Safety issues aside, RJ45 jacks are generally pc mount affairs.
I don't know how the OP has his parts wired together, though I
suspect it'd be a pain in the ass to panel mount an RJ45 jack.
 
R

R.Lewis

Jan 1, 1970
0
James Meyer said:
The original question was for a cheap connector solution for a one-off
application where current limited 120 Volts AC was being switched. Not for
something that could be plugged directly into the "mains".

The RJ-45 connector is rated for 125 Volts and category 5 cable is rated
for 300 Volts. The combination is cheap and will meet the original poster's
requirements.

Stick *that* up your mains.
Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?
 
J

James Meyer

Jan 1, 1970
0
Safety issues aside, RJ45 jacks are generally pc mount affairs.
I don't know how the OP has his parts wired together, though I
suspect it'd be a pain in the ass to panel mount an RJ45 jack.

There are plenty of panel mounted RJ-45 connectors available. A typical
office setting has them on the wall. No PC board required. The wires come
right off the back of the receptical. Most of them use IDC type connections so
even soldering is eliminated.

Jim
 
J

James Meyer

Jan 1, 1970
0
Odd.
You state the rating of the cable and the connector which shows conclusively
that they will not do the job Then you state they will.

Any reason why?

I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim
 
R

R.Lewis

Jan 1, 1970
0
James Meyer said:
I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim
That just about sums it up.
If you don't know what you are doing with one thing - best make sure you
know nothing about the lot.
Saves you from worrying I suppose.
 
C

Chris W

Jan 1, 1970
0
James said:
I'll be willing to bet dollars to donuts that the ratings of the
connector/cable combination I specified at least equals the rating of the switch
used at the end of the cable.

Failure of the cable/connector part, however likely or unlikely, is
exactly equivalent to either opening or closing the switch. Why analy
overdesign any single part of a series connected system without overdesigning
*all* of the parts?

Jim
Being the OP I thought I would interject here. The switch at the other
end of the cable is rated at 10A 125VAC and something else at 250VAC.
When turned on the switch will deliver 120VAC mains line to a solenoid
valve on a 1/2 HP hydraulic power unit. And as another poster suggested
this switch is back up for a relay, which is why I want to be able to
unplug it. Thanks for the many suggestions. Most I couldn't find at a
price I wanted to to pay. I will probably go with a Mouser P/N
161-R30200 and 161-R331. I would have preferred the similar connectors
that had the prongs perpendicular to what those have since that is more
unlike anything else that plugs into the wall. The "old style"
connectors that someone suggested are way too crude looking for my
tastes. As for the RJ45 connector, it has several problems, other than
not handling mains like some say, the cable won't hold up very well on
the end of a control box, and having the RJ45 jack in my control box
might lead someone to think that the thing is network enabled and try to
hook it up to the network.

--
Chris W

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