Please help me identify this burnt piece

[Zip112]

More pictures and questions...

On the top of the unit there's a chart describing the model specs. Obviously the first number is the voltage, but do you think the 2nd number is significant in terms of specs? In this cause they have the first box checked, which shows the numbers: "12-2500".

Do you think it would be fairly simple to build something like this from scratch using ebay parts, if using the same metal enclosure? It looks like it's just a switch, a fan, and the heating element. They charge over $300 for a piece like this, whereas I read on another post that the units are usually much weaker than a $10 hair dryer.

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Those connectors are garbage too.
Well, for the heavy current used by a heater anyway.

 

[Zip112]

BTW, I just took it down because I have to clean it out. There's even a wasps nest in there! I'm thinking it's not going to last long (it's 3 years old).

 

[Martaine2005]

Which is why I showed a pic of the appropriate connector for a vehicle.
Called a scotch block...Don't know why though
But they are certainly bigger gauge metal contacts..

Martin

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

2nd number is most likely wattage.

You could probably just rewire what you have provided you are confident in doing so.

 

[Martaine2005]

2nd number is most likely wattage.

I agree with you John,
He has the 12v 2500W heater.

Martin

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

I would never use scotch blocks for any significant load. They work by piercing the stranded conductors and fatigue after a while. Especially if the current is high. Another problem is their tendancy to corrode.

 

[Zip112]

Is it really that bad to use just simple wire nuts with electrical tape over them?

 

[Martaine2005]

Hey John,
I agree again. I only joined in the conservation for a bit of banter. Any load would use relays and screwed connections IMHO.

Martin

 

[Martaine2005]

Is it really that bad to use just simple wire nuts with electrical tape over them?

Not if the amperage is small. Heaters in cars are power hungry. High amp accessories need terminating properly.

Martin

 

[Zip112]

So do you guys agree that for a 12v 2,500 watt heater, it would be best to use the ring connectors that tha fios pointed out, with nuts and bolts holding them together?

 

[Martaine2005]

Hi Zip,
Yes, absolutely. What John suggested is by far the best way to connect high amperage accessories with out a doubt.
In fact, the bigger the better...

Martin

 

[davenn]

View attachment 23189 Use these, with a screw and nut thru the 3 holes. Then insulate with a liberal amount of good quality electrical tape

can you please crop and resize images before posting them

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Ideally, yes. You could get by with wire nuts, but its not ideal. The plastic of the wire nut may not be rated for the ambient temperature, and corrosion can enter the splice if you dont use tape or shrink wrap.

 

[Zip112]

Thanks everyone.

If I wanted to test this unit when separated from the tractor, could I just connect it to a spare standard 12v car battery which has been sufficiently charged? I've never worked with such high amperage on a 12v device before. I'll only have to test it for a few seconds.

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

can you please crop and resize images before posting them

OK, I'll refrain from doing screen shots.
(Don't know how to crop on android)

 

[Zip112]

Ideally, yes. You could get by with wire nuts, but its not ideal.

The wire nuts I'm using actually ARE Ideal. That's the brand name.

 

[davenn]

Then insulate with a liberal amount of good quality electrical tape

Scares me when a qualified spark says that !

Martin

agreed, Martin, really bad advice

do it properly and use heatshrink

 

[Martaine2005]

rated for the ambient temperature,

Now I feel really bad John........

Martin

 

[davenn]

(Don't know how to crop on android)

OK ... I would probably be in the same boat if I was on my phone ... presumably there must be graphics progs available ??
I have never investigated LOL

Dave