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PIR operated DC motor project odd behaviour help

Discussion in 'Sensors and Actuators' started by spyder9, Feb 15, 2017.

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  1. spyder9

    spyder9

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    Feb 15, 2017
    I connected it as shown but as soon as i Turn on supply this black component behind these blue connectors starts smoking,i disconnected it right away,module Is still working fine

    Part number is M7

    Edit: only now jave i noticed that this product image does not even show this one component.

    Ivan
     

    Attached Files:

  2. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    Yes, you're correct. The product image doesn't include that component. It was probably added in current versions. Since I can't see the bottom of the board I can only give you an educated guess of what it's for. Considering it's location on the board I believe it's a reverse polarity protection Diode. They protect the circuit if the user inadvertently applies power with the polarity reversed. When protection Diodes are wired across the power supply input they're intended to blow the power supply fuse. Unfortunately if you're supply is not fused or current limited the Diode will produce smoke!

    It's rare for a protection diode to survive after producing smoke. They usually end their life with a permanent short. Rarely, they will burn open but I've only seen that when they explode!

    Do you know how to test a Diode with an Ohmmeter?

    Chris
     
  3. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    I'm sending picture of my multimeter
    I suppose i need to switch to diode sign and connect ends to diode
    I just don't know what numbers to expect
    Also im sending full module picture

    Edit: i have tried the test as i wrote above
    When i connect the leads,i get 567,other way around i get nothing,that Is because i have connected it the wrong way i suppose
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  4. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    Yes, the Diode position is what you want. When the DMM is switched to Diode test or Ohms the device/component you're testing should never be powered. Not doing so can damage your DMM.

    Anyway, your reading (.567V) = 567millivolts. That's about normal when the Negative (Black) meter lead is connected to the end of the Diode with the white band. This is the Cathode end of the Diode. The opposite end of the Diode is the positive end 'Anode'. When used as a protection Diode in parallel with the supply input they're said to be reversed biased. IE they are invisible to the power supply because they don't conduct. If you inadvertently wire the power backwards the Diode looks nearly like dead short to the supply. It's a small miracle that it survived the smoke test!

    We here on EP we would unanimously agree that when it comes to electronics nubes the "Current Limited Power Supply" is the best thing that ever came down the pike! Properly used it can totally eliminate the magic smoke escaping from your components. :D

    So... Is that thing working now?

    Chris
     
  5. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    I haven't tried to connect the red opto wire (referring to the diagram a few posts above)
    Should i recconect it all back,and will it škole again ?
    When i connect the module as shown in a post back in february motor works fine as long as I push the button
     
  6. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
     
  7. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    The only way that Diode would have smoked is if you wired the power supply polarity backward. As far as your button is concerned.... What button? :confused:

    Chris
     
  8. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    I forgot to mention the you don't need the motor to test the timer board. Referring to the photos you'll see it incorporates two LEDs. One marked "Power" and the other "Running Indicator". The Running Indicator will light during the timing period after the timer is tripped.

    Chris
     
  9. spyder9

    spyder9

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    Feb 15, 2017
    I double checked 2 Times,maybe i missed sometning,i'll try again

    On original package opto input Is a button,that i cut and connected GSM vibration motor wires,and later ringer wires
    In both cases when I connect power, both power and running LEDs are lit

    Edit: when i connect two opto input wires and then seperate them,running LED turns off after few seconds,depends on the time period that i have set.

    Ivan
     
  10. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    What is next thing to do?,if module works connected like on the diagram few posts above (the one with the red wire hanging)
     
  11. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    I think we're going to have to backup a bit. I'm an old dog that's still using a flip phone. I had to google GSM and "GSM Ringer". Up until now I've been under the assumption that you've been picking the ringer voltage (hard wired) off of your GSM. From what I read am I to understand that your ringer is a separate wireless remote device?

    Chris
     
  12. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
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    Feb 15, 2017
    No no,i took old mobile phone, disconnected + and - wires from vibration motor,and i was planning to use that to trigger module.

    Edit: later i disconnected same wires from ringer (speker) and tried to use that for trigger signal
     
  13. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    Your assumption is correct

    Ivan
     
  14. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    Well, after rereading your post below I think you should measure the ringer output that's connected to your opto input. What you're describing seems to indicate that there's a voltage present even when it's not ringing.

    Chris
     
  15. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    When it Is ringing i get 3.2 volts ,when it Is not i dont have any voltage.
    When i power up module,black and red opto input wires have 12v .
    Ivan
     
  16. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    That's not possible.o_O It's a simple circuit hookup but you have something very wrong there!

    Disconnect everything except power to the timer board. Then measure any voltage present on the Opto input pins. It should be Zero Volts because the Opto input consists of nothing more than a LED and current limiting resistor!

    Chris
     
  17. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    It suprised me too,i'm out of ideas how to make it work

    I measured it,it shows 0 volts.
     
  18. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    May 8, 2012
    What I'm going to ask you to do next is really lame but I'm lost for a logical explanation....

    Disconnect the ringer output from the Opto input on the timer board. The connect a 560Ω across the ringer output. Measure the voltage across the resistor with and without the ringer ringing.

    Chris
     
  19. spyder9

    spyder9

    61
    0
    Feb 15, 2017
    It seems that the ringer wires had disconnected themselfs somehow (Bad soldering i suppose)
    But i also have wires for vibration motor signal
    It shows 3.35v without resistor and 3.2v with resistor,for the duration of the vibration ,then it goes to zero,and rises again to specified voltage periodicaly (Vibration motor Is removed)
     
  20. CDRIVE

    CDRIVE Hauling 10' pipe on a Trek Shift3

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    648
    May 8, 2012
    I guess you can try the vibration motor output connected to the Opto. Correct polarity of course.l

    Just a side note:
    You do realize that the timer will trip from a very brief signal on the opto input. If the timer times out while the opto is still live it'll probably begin another timing cycle. In other words it could make it appear that the timer never times out until the vibrator voltage has shut down completely.

    Chris
     
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