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PIR operated DC motor project odd behaviour help

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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So i started making PIR sensor operated dc motor
I got pir sensor switch with + and - input and output ports
When i connect dc to output ports it starts when it detects signal,but doesn't stop ever.
But when I plug multimeter on the output current stops when there is no signal
i can't figure out why
Maybe some resistors between pir out and dc ?
 

shrtrnd

Jan 15, 2010
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Do you have a part # or data on your Passive Infra-Red sensor?
You might have a 'switch', but you might instead have a 'sensor'.
If it's a sensor, it will have varying degrees of sensitivity associated with it, not an 'on-off' 'switch' function.
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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It is exact same as this one on the picture
 

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CDRIVE

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spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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It is at 5sec
I added 1.5 ohm resistor to the output before the motor
Now motor stops when it should but only for 1-2 seconds and then starts again and stops after 5 sec and again goes into loop
 

CDRIVE

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Should we assume that you've played with the sensitivity adjustment? Also, what's the motor current draw at this voltage?

BTW, welcome to Electronics Point.

Chris
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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There isn't sensitivity adjuster
Only delay
Really don't know
My current meter is broken

Thanks,loving it so far..so many great posts and very helpful
 

CDRIVE

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According to the link and image I posted there is a sensitivity adjustment. Actually I'd be surprised if it didn't.

Chris
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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It doesn't have it
Only delay adjuster
I tried adding a diode to the motor,on the basis that it will act likea flyback diode. now it stops for longer period but still goes into on-off loop
 
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CDRIVE

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So i started making PIR sensor operated dc motor
I got pir sensor switch with + and - input and output ports
When i connect dc to output ports it starts when it detects signal,but doesn't stop ever.
But when I plug multimeter on the output current stops when there is no signal
i can't figure out why
Maybe some resistors between pir out and dc ?
OK, I had to go back to your original post to verify this. You didn't specify this but should we assume that only the multimeter is connected to the output (no motor) when measuring? Did you try driving only a resistive load?

You never did answer my questions about your motor specs. Please post them and or a link to your motor. You may well be overtaxing the output capabilities of your detector. For all we know your also exceeding the capabilities of your power source. Is it a wallwart? Motors can pull many times their run current when starting.

Not knowing anything about your motor and taking into account (if I assume correctly) that it works as expected when only the multimeter is connected to the output, I think you'd be well advised to use the output voltage to drive a Relay or Transistor switch. There's a good chance that you may need a separate power supply for the motor as well. On the other hand this might be a decoupling issue that might be cured with some bypassing caps on the detector's output.

BTW, the flyback Diode that you added is something you should have done from the get go but I think you know that.

Chris
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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Thanks for the comperhensive answer
Motor specifics are not important because in the end motor will be windscreen wiper motor and it will run off 12v dc power supply
Now at home i'm testing with 5v supply and toy dc motor

I solved the problem

This pir sensor switch can be triggered by unstable voltage.
And when motor is running voltage on output is 1.5v to 3v
I added L7808cv voltage regulator and now i have stable 4.8 v output
And sensor works as it should

Thanks for help
 

CDRIVE

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Thanks for the comperhensive answer
Motor specifics are not important because in the end motor will be windscreen wiper motor and it will run off 12v dc power supply
Now at home i'm testing with 5v supply and toy dc motor

I solved the problem

This pir sensor switch can be triggered by unstable voltage.
And when motor is running voltage on output is 1.5v to 3v
I added L7808cv voltage regulator and now i have stable 4.8 v output
And sensor works as it should

Thanks for help
This is going to leave this thread supposedly resolved with more questions than answers. For one thing how and why does an 8V linear regulator output 4.8V and moreover do it with only 5V input? :confused: Are you omitting important details, like your no longer using a 5V supply?

Chris
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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Supply is 5.0v cell phone charger
With no load it gives 5.8v at 500mA
I don't know about the regulator and why it is working
Here is a pic of the connection
Ir diode gives signal to pir
That is why it is covered with tape,so that no outside parameters can get in

Also can you suggest me what model regulators to use for 12-14v dc supply
Cheap as possible,budget is an issue
 

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CDRIVE

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It's a miracle that thing is working at all. First off I had no idea that the only thing the regulator is regulating is the motor voltage not the entire PIR circuit. Besides that your regulator is not wired properly, as I don't see a GND connection between the motor and the regulator's GND pin. Quite frankly I'm so confused I'm getting dizzy! :confused:

I'm going to be heading out to my Saturday watering hole. When I return I'm sure I'll be a lot sharper. So much so that this is all going to make perfect sense to me. :rolleyes:

Chris

Edit: Your color codes threw me. I guess there is a GND connection but it still doesn't answer how an 8V regulator is working with 5V input.
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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This is only temp. wiring,there is a GND connection,to the - pin,together with motor negative
I also dont know,that is only one i had and i put it in no idea that it will work
Only later i found out that it is meant for 8v

For 12v i'll put either 7812 or 7815
And will report results
 

CDRIVE

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Linear Voltage Regulators must be powered by a source voltage higher than the Vreg voltage it's spec'd at. Take a look at this simulation of a 7808 regulator and tell me if you understand it. VS1 is a voltage source (Input) being swept from 0V to 20V. Observe the input voltage (X Axis) versus the output voltage (Y Axis).

Chris
upload_2017-2-18_22-39-39.png
 

spyder9

Feb 15, 2017
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Well i do understand it
It must be powered by voltage above 8v so that it can reduce it to 8v and keep it stable at 8v under load

Today i'll put 14v input and see what happens
This DC motor is rated 3-6v,but i'm sure that it can handle 8 for testing purposes

One more thing
I'm planning to use car wiper motor (12v dc)
And i was thinking to use 12v regulator 7812
And power it from 14v 1A supply
Can this regulator keep motor working when i put some load on it ?
Or do i need to put 14v regulator (i think 7815)
And run it on 14v with 18v 1.5A supply
Thanks in advance
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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I would think that a wiper motor could take much more than 1A, measure the free load current. The running current all depends on the torque required.
The motor will behave as almost a short when turned on. What is the reason for a regulated supply when you are happy with either 12V or 15V.?

If the supply comes from a transformer, rectifier and reservoir capacitor, then look at the amplitude of the ripple and make sure that the minimum voltage is sufficient.

I have used an unsmoothed rectified supply controlled by a SCR, the SCR is triggered when the back EMF is too low. Ths supplied a 12V car fan motor to drive a coil winder so speed not critical but needed controlling.
Start with a 12V 5A old style battery charger to give sufficient current and isolation.
 

CDRIVE

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This thread spawns more questions than answers. What are the Red & Black conductors coming off the left side of your PIR module?

Chris
 
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CDRIVE

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Let's see if I can get the image pasted this time..
Chris
upload_2017-2-19_10-3-7.png
 
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