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Pioneer VSX-D514

This unit will not power on.

The 5v standby voltage is there. The power button has no effect.

5 volts is on one side of the power button. That seems ok.

It would seem that System control is not turning on the relay for the main
transformer.

There is about 18v on the relay, but of course the Digital Transistor(relay
switch) is not being turned on to activate the relay.

I did notice when I pressed the power button the 18v on the relay went to
about 15v and then after couple seconds back 18v.


I am using the SM for the VSX-D511, but the VSX-D514 SM would be good to
have. Any suggestions besides Pioneer Parts?

Any info/direction on this unit would be great!

Thanks
Jimmy
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
This unit will not power on.

The 5v standby voltage is there. The power button has no effect.

5 volts is on one side of the power button. That seems ok.

It would seem that System control is not turning on the relay for the
main transformer.

There is about 18v on the relay, but of course the Digital
Transistor(relay switch) is not being turned on to activate the relay.

I did notice when I pressed the power button the 18v on the relay
went to about 15v and then after couple seconds back 18v.


I am using the SM for the VSX-D511, but the VSX-D514 SM would be good
to have. Any suggestions besides Pioneer Parts?

Any info/direction on this unit would be great!

Thanks
Jimmy

Find the transistor which drives the relay, and see if it's base is being
driven. Sounds like it may be bad. This might explain why the voltage to the
coil drops a bit when it should power-on.

Mark Z.
 
I would like to try a new relay driver transistor, but I can only find it at
Pioneer parts. It's only a @1.22, but they want almost $6 for S&H.

That is crazy. Anyway...

According to the Schematic, it contains two bias resistors.

I know I could check the transistor with my meter but that doesn't help in
the circuit (breakdown under load).
Plus I have the funcky bias resistors inside the transistor.

Do you know of a way to do a quick test on this without having a replacement
transistor?

Do know of a cross for this transistor: KRC101M ? A suitable cross would be
great.


It would seem Pioneer is as bad as Sony (or worse) at using hard to find
parts.

Here's the datasheet:
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/KEC/KRC101M.html

Thanks
Jimmy
 
S

Sam Goldwasser

Jan 1, 1970
0
I would like to try a new relay driver transistor, but I can only find it at
Pioneer parts. It's only a @1.22, but they want almost $6 for S&H.

That is crazy. Anyway...

According to the Schematic, it contains two bias resistors.

I know I could check the transistor with my meter but that doesn't help in
the circuit (breakdown under load).
Plus I have the funcky bias resistors inside the transistor.

Do you know of a way to do a quick test on this without having a replacement
transistor?

Do know of a cross for this transistor: KRC101M ? A suitable cross would be
great.


It would seem Pioneer is as bad as Sony (or worse) at using hard to find
parts.

Here's the datasheet:
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/KEC/KRC101M.html

Yeah, those so-called "digital" transistors are IMO a joke.

If you have any general purpose NPN transistor like a 2N3904, you can
just add the two resistors and be done.

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M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
I would like to try a new relay driver transistor, but I can only
find it at Pioneer parts. It's only a @1.22, but they want almost $6
for S&H.

That is crazy. Anyway...

According to the Schematic, it contains two bias resistors.

I know I could check the transistor with my meter but that doesn't
help in the circuit (breakdown under load).
Plus I have the funcky bias resistors inside the transistor.

Do you know of a way to do a quick test on this without having a
replacement transistor?

Do know of a cross for this transistor: KRC101M ? A suitable cross
would be great.


It would seem Pioneer is as bad as Sony (or worse) at using hard to
find parts.

Here's the datasheet:
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/KEC/KRC101M.html

Thanks
Jimmy

Well, the thing to do is measure the voltages. It either works or it
doesn't. Digital transistors are easy. Normally the emitter side is at
ground. If there's 5 volts or whatever to the base, the collector should go
low. If it doesn't, the transistor is bad. Probably best to suck it up and
order the Pioneer part. By the time you source a replacement, you've already
burned up that 6.00 and more.

Mark Z.
 
I checked the relay transistor again and is seems kinda odd.

The collector shows about 18v. The base shows about -.3 or -1.2 if I press
the power button. The voltage fluctuates.

The emitter has about the same readings as the base. *he scratches his head*

Does this sound like a ground problem or a system control problem?

I just want to be sure I haven't missed anything b4 I order a new relay
trans.

Thanks
Jimmy
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
I checked the relay transistor again and is seems kinda odd.

The collector shows about 18v. The base shows about -.3 or -1.2 if I
press the power button. The voltage fluctuates.

The emitter has about the same readings as the base. *he scratches
his head*

Does this sound like a ground problem or a system control problem?

I just want to be sure I haven't missed anything b4 I order a new
relay trans.

Thanks
Jimmy

Sounds like you're definitely at least having a problem getting a good
ground reference for your measurements. I have seen a bad eyelet at the
power transformer cause similar issues on a Pioneer. The emitter of the
relay drive transistor should have direct continuity to the center leg of
the positive 5 volt regulator. The receiver chassis should be at ground
potential, as well.
The PDF is about 7 meg. Can you take an attachment of that size?

Mark Z
 
J

Jimmy

Jan 1, 1970
0
First off, Thanks again for the SM.

I took the unit apart to check for bad solder connections and for cracks.
All looks good.

I plugged it up and the relay(s) clicked.I put it back together enough to
power it on(I thought anyway) No display or response from the power button.
But is was doing more tht before.

So, I continued putting it back together and plugged it up (no click like
b4), pressed the power button and
it powered on. Of course after a few seconds it shows AMP ERR.

As you may know, it will power down after a few seconds if it detects an
error. So it is either DC on the outputs or some other problem.

I was thinking it remembers the last power down state (if there is an error
and it shuts itself down) it will not
come back on until it loses memory(resets).

Also, the power packs that Pioneer makes and sells are NOT cheap!

PAC010A: $29.99 and the PAC011A: $34.98. That's from Pacificsemi.com.

Do you know of place that sells these any cheaper? At those prices, it may
not be feasible to repair this unit.

What are you thoughts on this?

Thanks
Jimmy
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jimmy said:
First off, Thanks again for the SM.

I took the unit apart to check for bad solder connections and for
cracks. All looks good.

I plugged it up and the relay(s) clicked.I put it back together
enough to power it on(I thought anyway) No display or response from
the power button. But is was doing more tht before.

So, I continued putting it back together and plugged it up (no click
like b4), pressed the power button and
it powered on. Of course after a few seconds it shows AMP ERR.

As you may know, it will power down after a few seconds if it detects
an error. So it is either DC on the outputs or some other problem.

I was thinking it remembers the last power down state (if there is an
error and it shuts itself down) it will not
come back on until it loses memory(resets).

Also, the power packs that Pioneer makes and sells are NOT cheap!

PAC010A: $29.99 and the PAC011A: $34.98. That's from Pacificsemi.com.

Do you know of place that sells these any cheaper? At those prices,
it may not be feasible to repair this unit.

What are you thoughts on this?

Thanks
Jimmy

Some recent Pioneer models have to have the protection state cancelled by
holding certain buttons while powering ON, or something like that, even
after the defective output IC is replaced.
Yeah, the cost of the IC's is a bummer, but there's really no alternative.
I'll see if I can find the protection cancel info, but you may be hosed on
this one due to the parts cost.

Mark Z.
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mark said:
Some recent Pioneer models have to have the protection state
cancelled by holding certain buttons while powering ON, or something
like that, even after the defective output IC is replaced.
Yeah, the cost of the IC's is a bummer, but there's really no
alternative. I'll see if I can find the protection cancel info, but
you may be hosed on this one due to the parts cost.

Mark Z.

Press and hold ENTER and ADVANCED SURROUND simultaneously for at least 2
seconds. This will cancel the protection error condition. If it trips again,
probably an output IC is blown.

Mark Z.
 
M

Mark D. Zacharias

Jan 1, 1970
0
I will try the reset and see what happens.

Why would this info not be in SM?

Thank You
Jimmy

Good question. An oversight perhaps.

Mark Z.
 
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